Recent content by Tig

If you are handy with a welder you can pretty much make what ever you want. I can't see why a exhaust shop shouldn't be able to do it ? they normally just cut out the section then replace with a custom H pipe.

Mine is originally a 318 car and I swapped it over to an RB many years ago. It's an easy swap, no fabrication needed just the correct parts :thumbsup:

Another thing you could try is running a good earth cable to the engine. Heat increases resistance if the connection isn't the best.

Again, these are home built but under the fender rather than in the engine bay. There was no issues with a 29 inch tall M/T front runner.

The next time it will get fired up is to put it in the trailer and head to the track. Bores were basically just deglazed but I hear ya on the ring seal. Normally after a couple of semi gentle passes it's done :D

Below is a vid of the first start up of the year. I know it smokes some but I rebuilt and refreshed the motor after braking a ring land late 2022 (sse pic). New set of pistons so the bores had a lot of oil in them. My Mrs took the vid and obviously she is a little concerned when it stalls the...

I bought a set off Ebay about 7 years ago, they've gone up in price a bit but still available. A quick google came up with the ones below. https://www.ebay.com/itm/165600576333

"but tell a mopar guy you have a Chevy tranny is like putting a 9” rear diff when you should have went to a Dana 60" Just for Info and from a racers point of view, unfortunately you cant get an SFi case for a 727 or a 904, which you can for a TH400 type 'box. Also you cant get the pro "soft"...

You are going to need a decent sized cable for a permanent feed if you have stuff like an electric water pump, fans etc. I just ran a large cable to a big bulkhead electrical connector on the firewall and used that as a supply point. I put fuses in at the battery ends as close to the battery as...

Pretty much done what the others have done. Running a separate neutral wire from the battery to the engine made a real big difference to how fast the starter turns. A 50 year old unibody isn't the best option for use as a ground. I also picked up a couple of tips from some high end race cars...

Thanks ! Paint is one of the few things I get other folk to do. I did do the underneath, door shuts, trunk, engine bay etc and it came out good. The guy who did it is one of the top body guys here in the UK but has since (supposedly) retired. it's HOK Kandy Base coat Purple (KBC 10). I also...

It won't be the last one built, as far as I can tell 15th April '74 was the last day of Challenger production. I is an options code (on the options plate / fender Tag ?) for International Export according to the decoders. No door sticker and no build sheet, they're long gone prior to my...

Correct, it's an export model (I code) Fitted as standard along with front and rear A/R bars H/D brakes etc, We live in the UK. Runs mid 9's with the 580 wedge, we are looking to fit a 655 wedge sometime next season it has 200hp more. If it was light it would be quick

It's a really clean car, the rear fenders have had a decent repairs to the bottom of them in the past and there is small a 3" x 3" patch in the trunk but that is all I can find. We've owned it for 35 years next year. Mainly used for racing but we're relocating to somewhere a bit more rural so...

Hi All. We have a '74 Challenger that has a build date of mid March 1974, I always remember the guy I bought from saying it's one of the last ones. It was built for the international market (I code). When was the last one actually built ? TIA