4 GATE ADAPTER SLAP STICK

[BSG]

Has anyone heard of someone converting the slap stick for a 4sd overdrive?

 

[JDMopar]

If you're using a 518 Chrysler automatic, there's no need to convert it. It does the OD and converter lockup with pressure switches that you install on the trans. PTC sells the kit with the switches. You would only need to make an adapter bracket for the linkage arm that goes thru the floor pan, but there are lots of examples of that on the web to go by.

 

[BSG]

If you're using a 518 Chrysler automatic, there's no need to convert it. It does the OD and converter lockup with pressure switches that you install on the trans. PTC sells the kit with the switches. You would only need to make an adapter bracket for the linkage arm that goes thru the floor pan, but there are lots of examples of that on the web to go by.

What I’m doing is researching what trans to put behind the 6.4 and what electronics to run the 2. I’m leaning toward the terminator x with a 4l60e or the 4l80e
What I’m finding is the engine is the least expensive part of the dark side of a late model hemi swap.

 

[JDMopar]

I see....and I agree about the expense part 100%. That's the main reason I chit canned the Gen 3 swap into my 70 Duster and stuck with the original plan of 340/833.

Do a little research on the OD ratios of a Chrysler 46RH (518) vs the 4L60 or 4L80. If the ratio is close to the same, a 46RH would be a lot less expensive. None of them will be a simple bolt in, but a 46RH can be installed into an E body without hacking up the torsion bar crossmember. You just need to trim some of the extra ribs off the transmission.

 

[Xcudame]

Here's some pictures of what needs to be done for the 518 (46rh) install in an E-Body. It's really easy.

 

[BSG]

I see....and I agree about the expense part 100%. That's the main reason I chit canned the Gen 3 swap into my 70 Duster and stuck with the original plan of 340/833.

Do a little research on the OD ratios of a Chrysler 46RH (518) vs the 4L60 or 4L80. If the ratio is close to the same, a 46RH would be a lot less expensive. None of them will be a simple bolt in, but a 46RH can be installed into an E body without hacking up the torsion bar crossmember. You just need to trim some of the extra ribs off the transmission.

Ironically enough my friend abandoned his 1996 ram wagon 2500 before entering a nursing home. I'll bet the 360 in it has that or something just like it behind it? This is why I'm gonna take a month or 2 to get all the info from people that know and have done this already. The 6.4 was an impulse buy. The front of my car is pretty much built for the Gen 3 with coilover & arm style front suspension with rack and pinion steering. The crappy part is the years wasted finishing it all only to tear into it again. A fool and his $ . The west coast power tour kinda was the tipping point keeping up with freeway traffic the was just short of screaming and on the drag strip with all the sound deadening i sprayed on both sides of the floor its heavy and slow with what amounts to what a 70 340 would have put out back in the day. I want it all and this is pretty much the only way to get it. A 6 or 8 speed auto would be great but definitely adds a grip to everything $ and mods. I'm gonna try and go with the old KISS methodology. If anyone else wants to chime in I'm all ears.

 

[Katfish]

I have a 518 behind my 5.7.
It's an absolute joy to drive now, no more putting around in the slow lane as minivans pass by.......
https://postimages.org/][/url]

 

[BSG]

I have a 518 behind my 5.7.
It's an absolute joy to drive now, no more putting around in the slow lane as minivans pass by.......
https://postimages.org/][/url]

are you running 3.55s or?

 

[Katfish]

3.73 gears, 275/40/18 (26.7 diameter) rear tire

 

[BSG]

I have a part # R5003026AC tranny that's sitting in a van 96

I see....and I agree about the expense part 100%. That's the main reason I chit canned the Gen 3 swap into my 70 Duster and stuck with the original plan of 340/833.

Do a little research on the OD ratios of a Chrysler 46RH (518) vs the 4L60 or 4L80. If the ratio is close to the same, a 46RH would be a lot less expensive. None of them will be a simple bolt in, but a 46RH can be installed into an E body without hacking up the torsion bar crossmember. You just need to trim some of the extra ribs off the transmission.

as it turns out that van has a 46RE in it and it free for the taking do you know what the differance is between the RH & RE truck vs car maybe and probably a longer tail housing?

 

[JDMopar]

Both 46RH and 46 RE's only came in trucks and vans. They are both physically the same size, but are different in the way OD and lockup are controlled. 46RH is hydraulically controlled and 46RE is controlled electrically. There is a stand alone controller for the RE version, but I have never researched it because the RH is so much easier to control with the PTC switches. I'm going to put a 46RH in my older Dodge pickup when I do the 5.9 Magnum swap. If you do decide to use a 46RH or RE, find whichever version you prefer, from a 2WD truck or van. I'm pretty sure the RH version were only used until 1995.

 

[BSG]

Both 46RH and 46 RE's only came in trucks and vans. They are both physically the same size, but are different in the way OD and lockup are controlled. 46RH is hydraulically controlled and 46RE is controlled electrically. There is a stand alone controller for the RE version, but I have never researched it because the RH is so much easier to control with the PTC switches. I'm going to put a 46RH in my older Dodge pickup when I do the 5.9 Magnum swap. If you do decide to use a 46RH or RE, find whichever version you prefer, from a 2WD truck or van. I'm pretty sure the RH version were only used until 1995.

Mine is coming straight out of a 95 Dodge Ram Wagon 2500. Thanks for the heads up I have seen some stand alone stuff and you would think the term x could run it. Research Research Research

 

[JDMopar]

If it is in a 95 van, you may get lucky and it will be the older version that does not need stand alone electronics. If it is an RH, it will have an electrical fitting on the drivers side, up behind where the shift and kickdown levers are. Typically, a white plug that has 3 prongs in it. Not to be confused with the neutral safety switch that screws in diagonally on the rear drivers side corner, just above where the pan bolts on. I will go out to the shop later on, and get you pics of the plug on both an RH and RE.

 

[BSG]

If it is in a 95 van, you may get lucky and it will be the older version that does not need stand alone electronics. If it is an RH, it will have an electrical fitting on the drivers side, up behind where the shift and kickdown levers are. Typically, a white plug that has 3 prongs in it. Not to be confused with the neutral safety switch that screws in diagonally on the rear drivers side corner, just above where the pan bolts on. I will go out to the shop later on, and get you pics of the plug on both an RH and RE.

Great I’ll do pics of mine

 

[JDMopar]

46RH - 518

46RE - The round black one we're looking down into.