70 Cuda clone convertible

[72*birdman]

Been a while got more done. Not going to make Vegas though. Windshield and trim in. Dash wiring is down to the main cluster. Vintage air tubes made this a real headache. Sound proofing and heat shield matt in. Seat belts cleaned and ready to go in. Carb linkage modified for the air gap intake. one side of the exhaust is on. will need to go to a shop for the welding and head pipes. top motor primed and working.

 

[KMikk]

I started out with a well optioned 1970 Barracuda convertible. Painted with optional High impact Lemon twist paint originally with a white power top and white interior, 318 V8, 904 console shift automatic, bucket seats, factory air, luggage rack, dual painted mirrors. Car came with a set of 15” rally’s on the back and 14” rally’s on the front. Top was missing but the seats had been recovered and also came with a new black carpet in a box. It also had a new gas tank and sending unit but the gauge still did not work. An 8¼” open differential rear end. It had the original flat hood on it but came with a sassy grass dual scoop Cuda hood that was set up for hood pins. The fender tag, dash tag and build sheet were all still with the car, although the build sheet was in rough condition.
Drive train: Motor: All new hoses, plug wires, water pump, fuel pump, freeze plugs and filters. The newly rebuilt 1970 340 Engine with a casting date of: 7/7/69 was cleaned and honed, there was no ridge in the bores so it remained Standard Bore 4.040 and will be running Factory OEM 10.5:1 Pistons with NOS MP Moly Rings on OEM 1970 Bushed Rods. New Clevite Cam, Rod and Main bearings and a Stock steel crank which also remained Standard/Standard. Camshaft is a Summit Cam #SUM-1708 .480/.480 Lift Hyd. Cam & Lifters. Heads are rebuilt “X” heads with OEM 340 HP Springs, Proform #66869 1.50 ratio roller rockers, and a set of black Mopar Performance aluminum valve covers. Installed a factory 90 degree oil filter mount. Oiling will be done by a Melling HV/Oil pump & pickup and aided by the factory windage tray. Intake gases will be run thru a Mopar performance 1970 style unsilenced air cleaner with new 340 pie tin to a Edelbrock Performer1406 carburetor (650 CFM , electric Choke) sitting atop an Edelbrock Air Gap Intake. The exhaust system will consist of a set of Headers running thru an all new stock exhaust system of mufflers, heat shields, piping, hangers, resonators and tips out a new dual cutout valance. Spark will be from a standard post 1972 Mopar electronic ignition system.

 

[KMikk]

I am in the process of rebuilding a 1970 challenger. can you tell me the part numbers to the unsilenced air cleaner assembly and where you ordered it from? I need to order the correct air cleaner for my 340.

 

[72*birdman]

I got that one from one of the mopar sites I look at, but Herb's parts has repo's part # 121-69 for $179.00. I'm sure others have them as well.

 

[72*birdman]

Dash is in, console repaired and in, seatbelts cleaned and in. Rear part of the exhaust hung. Steering column restored and installed. Dash and steering wheel still need detailed after the install hand prints on everything. I guess tomorrow will be cleanup and electric system check day. Fingers crossed there are no big issues. Going to try and get some help getting the hockey sticks and hood back on this week as well. Appt made for muffler head pipes and steering wheel lock cut and weld due to headers next Wed. Then its Time to add fluids and light the thing up next week. Leaving only one big ticket item I need to have done the top installation. I'm beginning to see some top down big ass grin crusin in my future!

 

[340challconvert]

Birdman
Really enjoying watching your build!

 

[DetMatt1]

I'm beginning to see some top down big ass grin crusin in my future!

Well said and well done!

 

[72*birdman]

Thanks man,
After 4 times in and out with the gauges last week I was beginning to wonder. Especially the third time when I looked down and saw the light tubes laying on the floor board.

 

[72*birdman]

Off to the exhaust shop tomorrow. Then its time to see if it will make that sweet noise.

 

[Cuda_mark]

Looks great. Do you have rear interior panels for the car? I'm doing my car now and the rear panels are less than perfect but I can only find ones that are in the $5k per pair range....

 

[72*birdman]

sorry I all ready sold my old rear convertible panels. I do have a set of new accuform rear panels but they are for a hardtop. Also have a new set of white accuform kick and pillar panels and a refurbished set of original white door panels. I'd like to sell as a set if possible. The door and kick panels fit both body styles but the pillars are only hardtop.

 

[fastx]

nice, Where did you get your a/c lines?

 

[72*birdman]

nice, Where did you get your a/c lines?

Its all part of the vintage air system. I have got a lot of original parts off this car including air conditioning and what not that after I get it running and driving, I will list to see if anybody's interested i just don't have the time right now.

 

[72*birdman]

I had a serious coolant leak from luckily the drivers side front exhaust stud. I found this post when doing a search on repairs. Guys this works like a champ.

It is your lucky day. I have repaired a few of these severely messed up exhaust bolt holes. Usually 340 X heads but its the same deal. Several bolt holes on mopars are wet. That is because normally they came with studs in those holes. Often when a frozen bolt is removed the threads and hole are damaged so they won't seal. Sometimes they will barely hold the bolt never mind stop the water. All the plumbing goop in the work doesn't seem to help. If that is the case this is a permanent fix. Drill the hole to 21/ 64 . Tap to 1/8th pipe. Insert a pipe plug (I use brass ) with a bit of sealer (Not that goofy white tape!) File flush with the rest of the gasket surface. Drill the pipe plug after installation to 1/4" Tap this hole to 5 /16 coarse. Insert your bolt although I would install a stud myself with asealer. I use hi temp silicon smeared lightly on the threads. You now have a perfectly repaired hole and no leaks forever. If the hole is already damaged so the 1/8 pipe plug barely does the job just step up to the 1/4 pipe plug. Its drill size is generally written right on the tap shank.
This method works perfectly and will save many a severely damaged head (or block for that matter) and the repair is trouble free and permanent. It WILL not give you trouble again , ever.

 

[72*birdman]

Started the car last night for the first time. No leaks but didn't run it long the high temp header paint I used is blistering and coming off so it smoked up the garage. It was all ready dark so it will have to wait till this weekend when I can roll it outside and run it and burn the rest of the paint off the headers. Will need to reset the valves now that the lifters are pumped up too.

 

[72*birdman]

Got the hockey stick stripes on. Ran the valves again, not a fun deal with that cheese cutter fan I've got on there. looks like the dash is going to have to come apart again. Doesn't look like my voltage limiter is any good gauges stay pegged. Also got the brake and one turn signal light mixed up. Clock is working but the hour hand needs reset to match up with the minute hand. appears to be about 20 minutes off. I guess when you do this once every 15 years you lose a little bit knowledge and skills. Motor is sounding real good though and a friend is coming over this evening to give it a fine tune. Got the fluids topped off and set up an appointment for an alignment later this week. Put a deposit down at the upholstry shop so they would order the top and get me in the schedule. all in all a productive but frustrating week.

 

[72*birdman]

tops on

 

[72*birdman]

first show in Denver

 

[pentastarnut]

Beautiful

 

[Jonny]

What water pump pulley did you use, it looks like 2 groove and do your AC/crank/alternator belts ride on it? Thx