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No problem. My car was a rotisserie resto and I did not want to accidently spill brake fluid onto that paint!

Ideally start with new components. Short of that make sure to get rid of ALL the old DOT 3/4 fluid as they are incompatible. The pedal feel will be different after converting to the purple stuff too!

The piston moves to the side of lower pressure due to a hydraulic failure or leak (seals, etc). If you have a leak you should be able to see the fluid leaking, wet spot, etc. The fix is to open the bleeder on one side of the front or back and press on the pedal, then close the bleeder. If that...

I had a brass one already installed. Dr Diff told me what I had was for drum/drum and I needed to change it to the disc/drum, which I did. It bolted up easily but the one I took off was not an iron type.

I bought a new one from Dr Diff and it was bad right out of the box.

It was wet because there is a leak somewhere (corner of the rear windshield, rear light seals, etc. I would fix those leaks first then be concerned about the bubbling. If you have a trunk mat it will cover a multitude of sins...

Surprised your car has points. I've had a 72 Challenger and a 72 Barracuda and both had electronic ignitions.

I contacted Vintage Air about this. Their system does not have a way to grab 12v when the system is on. The only 12V cycles through the system when the compressor comes on. The fan speed and temp control use a zero to five volt scale. In light of this, I wired my solenoid up to come on when the...

Unfortunately, not much of my setup is factory! :) To keep the engine happy, I have to set the idle at about 1100. In gear, with A/C & cooling fans running the engine is at about 750 and not particularly happy. Timing is optimized so that eliminates the issue being lack of timing. I often need...

Yeah, I think these are pretty useless. Since the solenoid does not increase the idle speed by itself, I wish I would not have purchased it. What I *might* do is use it as an anti-dieseling solenoid instead. Need to increase the idle a lot to handle both the compressor load and the alternator...

The project will likely cost you more than you thought, but don't go cheap and try to cut corners. Build it the way you want with quality parts, taking your time, and it will be reliable for years.

As for the PCV, you might want to check out the M/E Wagner dual flow PCV setup. https://mewagner.com/

Glad it worked out for you. You never know about pricing, could have gone the other way and increased in price too. Shimming the mounts is a common way to gain a bit of clearance when needed.

You don't need it to operate the brakes, but it keeps dust/moisture out of where the spindle enters the rotor.

Your engine will be a torque monster, so you won't need a high stall converter... especially for the street. Your issue will likely be having enough tires to hold the car to the pavement! Power is useless unless you can get it to the ground!

I use the O'Reilly Auto Parts 16# coolant recovery cap, part number "Murray 7616" with my coolant recovery setup. Works fine.

I had the same issue on my 72 Challenger 440 with 26" radiator. Got a Mr Gasket tank from Summit (mrg-9135), a 3/8" hose (OPG-CH28757) and a 16# coolant recovery cap from O'Reilly Auto (Murray 7616). Works great.

The actual numbers can vary depending on your compression ratio, camshaft, and even your elevation. Assume you know to block the throttle wide open and then test each cylinder. Run your test and report the numbers for each cylinder here. What you are looking for is consistency across the test. A...

Yep, forgot that & will need a primer shaft to go down into the oil pump!!!

Just squirt some oil into each spark plug hole and slowly turn the engine with a bar & socket on the crank bolt. I assume you've changed the oil & filter. After a few rotations with the bar, assuming it turns well, pull a valve cover then pull the distributor and prime the engine until you have...