1970 Barracuda convertible header top removal

[hofilbert]

I have heard a couple things about removing the 4-5" wide stainless header panels across the top of the windshield for a convertible. I would like to remove the header panels and take some dents out. But, 1. I've heard there is a ton of sticky tar/silicone that will make it difficult to just simply remove. 2. I was told there are some tiny screws underneath that retain the header panels and I would have to remove the windshield before I can take the header panels off.
My old '69 Camaro CV I simply unscrewed the panels and could easily replace them.
I have done a lot of s/s dent/polishing before and that is relatively simple and easy, but I don't want to have to remove the windshield to get to the panels if I can avoid it.
Anyone that has done this, please tell me what needs to be done to remove the header panels. Thank you!

 

[340challconvert]

Just did mine.
To remove the top header chrome, only screws on top hold it in. There are no channel screws on the top piece, but the windshield clips in the channel and extra sealer made it tougher to remove. I took a flat, plastic putty knife and slid it under the top chrome and gently pushed across the back part of the molding to loosen the foam material underneath. Side a pillar chrome has screws into the pillar; can't be remove w windshield in. Lower piece at bottom of windshield came out easy w screw removal w some residual sealer holding it in. Hope this helps.

 

[340challconvert]

Bought the new foam gaskets from Detroit Muscle, suggested by a member here. Worked out great.
Side a pillar molding originally only had some dum dum sealer at the top seam where it met w the header panel. I duplicated this on the re-install.

 

[hofilbert]

Great pics. I hope mine is that easy.

 

[340challconvert]

hofilbert
It was strange; the original gasket under the top header was spongy black in color, very gummy/sticky almost looking like foam impregnated with tar, and appeared very deteriorated. It held the panel in tightly. The repro seal had sticky tape on one side for the install.

I pushed gently from the inside lip of the header, moving in and out/across gently with the 1 1/2 plastic putty knife. It worked out great w no damage to the stainless.

I took the opportunity to clean, rust proof and re-prime the window channel while the windshield was out.
Yours should come out well too. Mine was never off prior to my removal.

 

[340challconvert]

Worthwhile cleaning up if you have to remove the windshield.