How much is a 72 e-body disc set up worth?

[sheetmetaldan]

I may be able to pick up a disc brake set up for my 72 what would be a fair price to pay? I assume it is in working condition and would need to be pulled off the car. I have not seen it yet,should I grab the lines and prop valve in the engine bay or can I use what is on my car? Do I need to get the spindles as well to complete the swap or will the ones for my drums work? I just dont want to forget anything I need to make the conversion to disc.

I also dont know yet if they are power or manual discs so if any one can give me an idea on value for each it is appreciated. Opinions on performance of manual discs appreciated as well.

 

[moparleo]

If you are going to change any system on your car you want to get every thing that is related to that system, Also condition of the parts. Anything rusted, leaking or under spec's ( like rotors being worn out. Must be measured, don't go by the way it looks. The surface could be smooth but it is worn out. Find out the exact year. Makes a big difference on the price of rotors. 70-72 rotors are almost twice the price of 73-74 rotors.

 

[sheetmetaldan]

Thanks for your advice moparleo you may have saved me some gas.The parts are from a 72 Barracuda same year as mine so parts should fit up.I never did take into account the rotors may have no life left on them. I did a quick check on rockauto anywhere from $105-$140 apiece for rotors. Ouch! A P.S.T kit will run me around $699 for the power brake kit,however it says must use 15" wheels i`m not sure why that is I assume they mean the large stye bolt pattern on the rims?. I have 14" rims right now and don`t want to upgrade to 15`s yet. If I need new rotors plus cost of used parts and any rebuild calipers may need plus new pads. A kit from pst may make more sense than buying used stuff. This is starting to look like it may be more cash than I want to part with at the moment.

 

[moparleo]

Agreed. The reason they recommend 15" wheels is because a 14" aftermarket wheel might not have enough clearance between the caliper and the inside of the rim. Doesn't matter with drum brakes as the drum rotates with the rim.

 

[sheetmetaldan]

Ugh! just went out to mess with my brakes again and found this part broken (see arrow in pic) I don`t even know what to call it or it`s exact, function the car was still stopping fine but I could hear something rattling around in there. Hopefully I can find this at a local auto parts store. The pic doesn`t show it broken but the cable snapped and the piece at bottom end of cable with the spring is bent up in a "C" shape. I have put at least 500 hundred miles on these brakes I just noticed this noise the other day and found the cable snapped what could cause a failure like this? If I had 15" rims I wouldn`t even bother with the drums and the PST kit would be on it`s way! Does anyone know if you can get away with 14" rims with a PST power disc brake kit?

I get a constant squeak from the drivers side front drum, the pad looks like it`s wearing unevenly. Now I get this on the opposite side!

 

[burdar]

All the hardware is still available from a parts store. It's a good idea to change out all the springs during a shoe replacement. That cable is the automatic adjuster. When you hit the brakes in reverse, that cable adjusts the star wheel and keeps the brakes adjusted. Pull the star wheel apart and make sure it's not seized too.

If you want to convert to disc brakes, look into some 73 spindles. That way, you can use the cheaper rotors. I just bought new rotors for $48 each. There have been some posts saying that the new rotors won't fit 14" wheels due to the hubs being cast too big. I brought in one of the original wheels to make sure it would clear before I bought them.

 

[moparleo]

As far as I know, all of the companies selling disc brake kits are using the 73 and up spindles, bearings and seals, plus the lower priced 73-74 rotors in the kits. Thats what I was refering to in my first post to you. Burdar is correct in his recommendations on hardware kits replacement. I don't know how old your brakefluid or hoses or wheels cylinders are but, the brake system is the most important system in the car. No matter how fast you go or turn you have to STOP. Because the brake system is about 40 years old, here is what I would do:
My recommendation is to replace every thing in the brake system. Start with the fronts. The kits include pads, calipers, hardware, hoses, rotors, wheel bearings, grease seals, cotter pins, bearing caps, next step up includes the power booster and master cylinder. The rears come with drums, shoes, brake spring hardware kits, self adjuster cables, wheel cylinders. Should also get the brake hose to the rear axle.
Do not buy any rebuilt hydraulic parts. New, American made like Bendix, Wagner, Raybestosetc... only. Also the metal brake lines, front to rear.

The reason for these recommendations are, Dot 3 brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means it absorbs water thru the hoses. When you are braking, the heat generated by the shoes and pads transfers to the fluid. Brake fluids have a much higher temperature boiling point than water. If there is moisture in the system, it will want to turn to gas when overheated causing air pockets in the hydraulic system. This is one of the reasons why, especially on 4 wheel brake systems the brake pedal wants to drop to the floor under heavy brakeing. The older the fluid is, the more moisture is in the system. The water, being heavier than brake fluid will settle at the lowest points in the brake system, wheels cylinders, calipers. It will cause internal corrosion in the the calipers, pistons, and wheel cylinder bores. Because it uses steel brake lines, they deteriorate from the inside out. Should replace these also. New steel brake lines run abpout $100. to 175. depending on whether you get s/s or the oe type steel.
Happy to answer any other questions you might have about your brakes.:book1:

 

[challenger6pak]

I see used disc brakes sets for around $75 - $100. This is in core condition. If you are able to check the spindle for wear and check the rotor thickness with calipers you can decide on the worth of the set. It is a good starting point.

 

[moparleo]

He doesn't have disc brakes now. He would need to make sure the spindles were 73-74. Different bearing size from 70-72, different rotors. Still need a disc brake mastercylinder, proportion valve and brake hoses. There is no core for rotors, only reman. calipers. Check prices talking on the phone to the brake suppliers. Sometimes you can get a better price because you ask, and because you are going to buy more parts. I also forgot to mention the ball joints. Perfect time to do as they will be disconnected. Unless this is your work car or primary car. Save up some bucks and do it once , do it right.

 

[challenger6pak]

I was just answering his question, "How much is a 72 e-body disc set up worth ?"

 

[sheetmetaldan]

Thanks everyone for the replys. Just to avoid confusion the pic I posted was a before pic of my brakes I had saved. I did rebuild all the components and front end before I put it on the road. I couldn`t agree more with Moparleo no matter how fast you go you are going to need to stop!

Now that I know I will need to spend more than just the cost of disc brakes, with an upgrade to 15" wheels being necessary. I am going to hold off on this project and focus on the paint job. When I am ready a non-power disc brake kit from P.S.T will probably be the way i`ll go.

 

[moparleo]

Good planning always pays good dividends. Prioritize and go forward.
Mopar or no car !