Awesome work. It's a beauty. Do you or others have a plan for the body stands?
Here is a pic of my rear stands. They just mount to the front leaf spring hanger location. The front hangers bolt to the bumper bracket holes. The wheels are 6" hard rubber that I got at Menards. I have a piece of angle iron bolted in between the rear stands. I need to do the same thing in the front just so they are a littl more sturdy.
Thanks. I really need a set. I've looked for a set on the web but no luck. Those look good. Do you like those casters or do you think the inflatable ones would be better considering I have to roll mine out on the dirt from time to time?
Originally I had some small 4" wheels on the stands and it was a PITA to move the car. With these hard rubber wheels it moves easily. I have no experience with the inflatable wheels.
I wasn't happy with the way the rear end assembly looked so I tore it apart and redid it again.
original center section/2.76 open
soaked in some used up EvapoRust looking for inspection marks...
two yellow dots indicate 2.76 gears
stenciled date code possibly?
I previously painted the assembly with POR-15 and cast blast paint. To save myself a bunch of work stripping all that paint, I removed the axles and backing plates, made some wooden end plugs and had the assembly sand blasted.
The center section I'm using is a 3.23 sure grip which was an available option on a 318 Challenger in 73. I darkened it and reapplied the markings I found on the original center section. The white section on the side didn't turn out as nice as I'd hoped. I should have used a stencil.
After RPMing and installing a new metal dust seal the center section looks decent I think.
I had the housing powder coated but the tubes were still very pitted. I then had the housing sprayed with a high build primer. The major pitting was sanded out and finally the housing was sprayed with a semi-gloss paint. I couldn't find any new factory looking brake drums so I used the originals. They were blasted...the red band was brushed onto the face and then they were RPMed.
what I started with...
what it looks like now...the flash makes the drums look pink but they aren't
Just got the original carb back from Scott Smith.
I've been using acid to clean up the suspension parts. After they are rust free, they were dipped in baking soda water to neutralise the acid. Then they were either darkened or left a lighter color and RPMed.
The original idler arm was in perfect shape. It was soaked in EvapoRust and RPMed.
The LCA's had been painted with POR-15. I had them blasted...then I darkened the lower balljoint end, the rivets and the torsion bar socket. They were sprayed with Krylon battery protectant which imitates the look of cosmoline but dries completely. Then they were RPMed.
The K-member was powdercoated. They powdercoated the front swaybar by mistake. I was going to darken it and leave it natural. I blasted the original disc brake dust shields a long time ago which ruined the galvanized finish. I stripped off the POR-15 and lightly hit them with a wire wheel...then RPMed them. Here's the finished K-member assembly...
The parts and assemblies look awesome. Maybe I am dense, but what do you mean by RPMed?
RPM is a fairly new product used to protect bare metal from rusting.
Burdar, I've said it before but the attention to detail on this car is truly unbelievable. Thanks for sharing. That K-member is a thing of beauty.
Some more progress to report. The rear axle assembly is now installed and the car is sitting on its rear suspension.
Burdar, I can't express enough to you how much I admire your determination and hard work. Your car will be a true work of art. What are your plans with it? It will be too nice to drive.......
There are a few things I want to do with the car once it's done. I think the first picture I posted was infront of my grandparents house. That was the spot where all my aunts and uncles took pics of their cars. I want to go back to that house and take another picture of the car infront of it. I also want to get some pictures of it infront of the old dealership building where it was purchased. Finally, the salesman that sold my dad the car now owns the dealership. It has since moved to another town but it's still in business. I think it would be cool to get some pictures of dad and him with the car. Other then that not much. Just take it out on nice days and enjoy it.
What colour shade of gray is that....?
The factory paint code is JA5. Dodge called it "dark silver metallic"...Plymouth called it "silver frost metallic". I'd have to look at the extra paint I have so see what the new code is. It's a Spies Hecker Alfa Romeo color. It was a perfect match to the original paint under the jack instruction decal.
I just got the engine reassembled and painted so I thought I'd take a few pictures. I'll be working this week at getting the engine connected to the K-member and attaching all the other accessories.
I got the steering column done last night. The rebuild went well. It's not very complicated. I just disassembled everything and bead blasted the upper parts. I hand sanded the tube since it wouldn't fit in the blast cabinet. I painted most of the pieces with SEM Trim BLack. The ignition key light, upper and lower mounts and the lower steering shaft got painted with gloss black Rustoleum. I made a new lower seal out of some scrap material from a DMT gasket kit. I still have to clean up the steering wheel.
Steering coupler and shaft before...
Steering coupler and shaft after...
Hey guy . Great job. Here is a message for you guys who wonder how much a car is worth. This work is priceless to the owner/builder . This would get my vote for a $75k (from another string ) car.
If you haven't done it yet, what would you think about taking all of your before and after photos and burn them to a disc and sell for a nominal amount say $5.00 each. I think it would be great reference matrial and you could not only help a lot of guys out but also make a few bucks doing it.
People need inspiration when doing a big job and I think this is that kind of thing. Put me down for a disc if you decide to do it. You can't have too much reference material.
The amount of time and money it takes to restore a 73 is basically the same as a 70 or 71. The 73 is just worth considerably less when it's done. I'm not concerned with its monitary value at all. It was my dad's car. I remember going for rides in it when I was very young. It's priceless to me.
As far as making a CD...I highly doubt a picture CD of a 73 would sell. That being said, I'd be happy to take pictures and answer questions for anyone restoring a 72-74. I don't know know everything obviously but if I can help, I will.
I got the alternator back from Jim Ridge on Wednesday. It looks great. The original alternator was long gone. I had a 1976 casting that I tried to refinish but it didn't turn out looking very good. I was at my father-in-laws house a few years ago when he mensioned he had a couple Chrysler alternators buried on a shelf somewhere. After digging them out, I realised that one of them was a square back and had a casting date of Sept 72. How did I get that lucky? Anyway, here are some before and after pics of it.
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