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Learning things the hard way.

bullet18

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Get that exhaust fixed Conner the last thing you need is an angry sheriff hounding you.
I am, ive got the h pipe fabbed up and half welded. Hope fully 2 24 inch glass packs and an h pipe will quiet it down enough. Im gonna have the pipes exit right in front of the rear tire so i dont have to bend it over the rear axle.
 

DetMatt1

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You need to have your mom take a video if you can get another drive in before Sunday.
 

bullet18

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We've been working on the exhaust and its turned out pretty well so far. Fabing the h pipe involved a lot of trig to get all the pipes to line up but i got it. I put the glasspacks in the right way so hopefully the car isn't deafening anymore. Also im gradually stripping the primer off of the body panels, the paint underneathisnt great, but its better than "hi mom". We're having some issues with the radiator right now but we're making progress.

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bullet18

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It's still pretty freaking loud even with the glasspacks but its at least close to manageable. I'm gonna try to fab up an exhaust tip that reduces the pressures of the exhaust pulses as they leave the pipes. I still need to run some pipes to the final exit in front of the rear tires so maybe that will quiet it down some in addition to getting the collector flanges to seal correctly. I dont think i can fit even a 12 inch glass pack between the elbow and the exit so im gonna have to get creative.
 

quapman

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I generally use a pair of turbo mufflers in the pockets under the back seat. You can always toss on a pair of turndowns if you're not going over the axle. Summit or Autozone have them pretty cheap. $30ish each?
 

brotow

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I have cherry bombs and exhaust with chrome tips under the rear bumper on my '73 AMX and it is too loud. my 1970 challenger has t/a exhaust which exits in front of the read tires and that is loud also but quieter than the AMX cherry bombs
 
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bullet18

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Update on the long term plan for the engine: I'm realizing i'm not gonna need more than 650 hp in a car this light on the street, so I'm gonna shoot for around there. This means I don't need the outrageously expensive hemi conversion setup or any crazy forced induction with the 528. It'll probably come in a little below that number because it'll make too much torque for most transmissions otherwise. Because of this change I'm gonna do more research into what heads to buy given the fact i need higher compression ratio now. I'm looking at e streets, stealths, and(if 1000$ falls out of the sky into my lap) trick flow 240s. i know i should focus on getting the car street legal but I'm away at college and I've got easy classes this semester so i look at engine stuff when im bored.
 

aussiemark

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If your going to increase the capacity with a stroker kit get the heads with the highest flow rate you can afford, the larger capacity will need more flow to feed it otherwise the head flow will limit the power your engine can produce. The Edelbrock Victor cylinder heads would be a better choice for you then the E Street if you were staying with the standard capacity they would be too big and cost low end torque but on a stoker they will work well at low rpm. I think the E Street (or any similar head) will choke it and you won't get near the 650hp. This article sounds like what you are talking about plus they are actually cheaper then the Performer RPM heads, the ports are raised(something you can't do to the other head) and the port walls are very thick so porting for further improvement latter on is possible.
We Test the Edelbrock Victor 440 Cylinder-Head - Car Craft Magazine
 
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bullet18

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If your going to increase the capacity with a stroker kit get the heads with the highest flow rate you can afford, the larger capacity will need more flow to feed it otherwise the head flow will limit the power your engine can produce. The Edelbrock Victor cylinder heads would be a better choice for you then the E Street if you were staying with the standard capacity they would be too big and cost low end torque but on a stoker they will work well at low rpm. I think the E Street (or any similar head) will choke it and you won't get near the 650hp. This article sounds like what you are talking about plus they are actually cheaper then the Performer RPM heads, the ports are raised(something you can't do to the other head) and the port walls are very thick so porting for further improvement latter on is possible.
We Test the Edelbrock Victor 440 Cylinder-Head - Car Craft Magazine
I looked into those heads and damn are they expensive to setup. You need a victor intake and custom headers along with offset rockers and a custom valley pan. Its still cheaper than a forced induction setup but im sure not gonna buy them this summer. I added up all the parts and i comes up to 2582 before taxes, shipping, and machining. Definitely not cheaper than the RPMs but obviously you have to pay a lot for that kind of performance.
 

bullet18

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I might end up going with indy 440 EZs or EZ-1s because they flow similar numbers and theyd let me use cheaper headers and intakes.
 

AUSTA

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I looked into those heads and damn are they expensive to setup. You need a victor intake and custom headers along with offset rockers and a custom valley pan. Its still cheaper than a forced induction setup but im sure not gonna buy them this summer. I added up all the parts and i comes up to 2582 before taxes, shipping, and machining. Definitely not cheaper than the RPMs but obviously you have to pay a lot for that kind of performance.
You can use an airgap with these heads they come with spacers so it bridges the gap between the top of the China wall & the manifold so no valley pan ,yes you need offset rockers & the TTI exhaust or you can buy 3/8 header plates to fit from Hughes.
 

bullet18

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Over spring break i got the gaa tank and dash in along with getting the front end together and doing a bunch of wiring. 2 weeks from now i should be able to get the windshield in and the new mufflers on to drive it around. We're getting pretty close to road legality.

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