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High altitude radiator

70cuda50

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New member here. I just started restoring my long neglected 70 Cuda. I am swapping in basically stock 440 backed by 4 speed. Planning on a self tuning efi throttle body. (Any suggestions welcome). Need a new radiator. I would like to go with aluminum. Does not have to be stock looking though would be nice. I live at 6500 ft in Denver area. Anyone have experience with additional cooling issues associated with the altitude? In my research it seems 1" or bigger aluminum tubes make a difference in general. With my expected horsepower (planning on a build that should make 425 at little above sea level) sounds like 2 rows would suffice. Making even less power at altitude but with less efficient cooling from what I understand. Will 3 rows be needed? Also research shows there can actually be too much cooling. Not too complicate the matter but have not decided on clutch or electric fan. Theory and research are one thing...who out there can share some actual street experience at altitude? Thanks.
 

CCKen

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New member here. I just started restoring my long neglected 70 Cuda. I am swapping in basically stock 440 backed by 4 speed. Planning on a self tuning efi throttle body. (Any suggestions welcome). Need a new radiator. I would like to go with aluminum. Does not have to be stock looking though would be nice. I live at 6500 ft in Denver area. Anyone have experience with additional cooling issues associated with the altitude? In my research it seems 1" or bigger aluminum tubes make a difference in general. With my expected horsepower (planning on a build that should make 425 at little above sea level) sounds like 2 rows would suffice. Making even less power at altitude but with less efficient cooling from what I understand. Will 3 rows be needed? Also research shows there can actually be too much cooling. Not too complicate the matter but have not decided on clutch or electric fan. Theory and research are one thing...who out there can share some actual street experience at altitude? Thanks.
 

70cuda50

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Here it is on way to its resurrection. 30 years since any work done. 4 different paint colors layered on it now. Originally 340/3 speed. Has non original, more strip than street 340, 4 speed, Dana 60 with 4.88. Very fun but other life events got in the way for last 20 years. Tired of seeing it rotting away And never driven. So...Getting rotisserie restoration. Going with fairly stock 440 and 3.54s. Just about everything needs attention. Always wanted In Violet, black top and interior so that's what I'm getting. Lots of decisions besides radiator. Like disc brake and power steering conversion so you may see me popping up all over the forum. Thanks for the interest!

IMG_2492.PNG
 

Ccas

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BTW, In aluminum, BIG 2 row is literally ALWAYS better than 3 row aluminum.
 

moparlee

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Welcome from mid Michigan. Glad to see you getting after that Cuda, it will be a beauty. Lots of knowledge here to help you out.
 

CMC

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Question: Isn't better to go bigg>>>
then you can always use a thermostat to regulate the engine operating temp to where you want it???
 

BcudaChris

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I'm in Denver as well. I run a large tube, three row stock style radiator that was in my car when I got it in 1988. The car has A/C and was originally sold in Arizona. The dealership paperwork I have indicates a "heavy duty cooling system upgrade" was installed at purchase. The tanks don't have any Chrysler markings, but are of the same construction as stock tanks. Other than missing the Chrysler logo and markings, it looks stock

I have never had over heating problems, even running 3.91's at 85MPH on the highway with the A/C running, up and down I-70 and on mountain roads quite a bit slower. Even over Independence Pass.

I now run a 10.25:1 408 with 3.55's, a 195* thermostat and a real temp gauge that never wavers just under the 200 line. Prior to installing the new engine, I had it tanked and pressure checked, finding no problems.

Net of all that is I don't think altitude has a negligible impact on cooling for street duty, especially with a stock-ish engine. I think you'd be good with a 26" factory style radiator. Losing weight off the front end with an AL radiator never hurt anyone.
 

CCKen

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Our aluminum radiators have factory looking stamped tanks. You can paint it black to look factory.
Along with getting the extra cooling.
 

Cuda Hunter

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I agree with all this. I'm in Salida and have used stock tanks with no problems.


I'm in Denver as well. I run a large tube, three row stock style radiator that was in my car when I got it in 1988. The car has A/C and was originally sold in Arizona. The dealership paperwork I have indicates a "heavy duty cooling system upgrade" was installed at purchase. The tanks don't have any Chrysler markings, but are of the same construction as stock tanks. Other than missing the Chrysler logo and markings, it looks stock

I have never had over heating problems, even running 3.91's at 85MPH on the highway with the A/C running, up and down I-70 and on mountain roads quite a bit slower. Even over Independence Pass.

I now run a 10.25:1 408 with 3.55's, a 195* thermostat and a real temp gauge that never wavers just under the 200 line. Prior to installing the new engine, I had it tanked and pressure checked, finding no problems.

Net of all that is I don't think altitude has a negligible impact on cooling for street duty, especially with a stock-ish engine. I think you'd be good with a 26" factory style radiator. Losing weight off the front end with an AL radiator never hurt anyone.
 

CCKen

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Visit the Cold Case Radiators website. We have a radiator to fit your needs.
 
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