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hard paddle

Cratos

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manual brake car converted front to disk (ssbs) kit
the paddle seems pretty hard have all new fluid and brakes all the way around including lines.
 

fasjac

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Is it power brake system now or Just front disc? I’m sure you have bled them more than three times by now. If not, may try bench bleeding the m/c. Sometimes a lot of air will trap in the system. Sometimes the proportional valve is the issue after the upgrade. Are the bleeders above the piston bore after install?
If everything appears good I’d question the m/c size if you have bled the whole system at lest 3 times. Finally,
SSBS should be able to troubleshoot with you.
Good luck
 

Adam

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Was this a drum to disc conversion? Did you change the master cylinder?
 

Cratos

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it was a complete front kit ,calipers, rotors , master cylinder with larger bore. peddle if firm and dose not sink. just very hard.
 

fasjac

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I wonder if your push rod needs adjusting a bit since your kit had a new master cylinder with it. It may be to close to the plunger??? Did the install paperwork mention anything about it? Just a thought.
 

fasjac

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If everything else has checked out ok, the only other thing it could be is that master cylinder that came with their kit. I would find out the bore size (I bet it's to large) and go from there. I remember reading on some other forums about people using ssbc and having to change the master cylinder to a smaller bore size. I personally haven't used ssbc, so have no issues with anything they offer but, several other have. I used wilwood on my 73 cuda (front only) which has power brakes and they work fantastic. Didn't have to change the master cylinder. I don’t know if you have spoke to their tech line or not but, I’d have to though.
954B4695-CC9A-4D8C-BFD0-CCD0F5570B8A.jpeg
 

robert power

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I have a similar problem with my cuda.I have the ssbc offset booster with 4 wheel wildwood disc brakes.I removed the guts out off the proportioning valve and installed an adjustable one and its wide open.not sure off the bore size of the master as it came on the booster.Also have an electric vacuum pump.Car stops just won't lock them up.also upgraded pads to better friction material.Maybe someone has ran into this and can give me some ideas
 

fasjac

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I have read a few post from Abodies and Bbodies, same kinda of issues.
Check it out, as some have found the m/c in the kit to be the fix. Double check that. Obviously, that’s with everything else confirmed in order. Please let me know what you find as I use Wiwood with factory booster on just front and work great. May do rear disc as well. Front and rear will lock up very easy if you need it to.
Thanks
 

fasjac

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Good question! Not sure. But what I saw, most guys were getting good results with I believe to be the 15/16” bore. And, that’s the factory size on my m/c ( w/ power front). Not sure without on factory w/o power brakes.
 

BSG

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manual brake car converted front to disk (ssbs) kit
the paddle seems pretty hard have all new fluid and brakes all the way around including lines.
I have the same exact problem on my 72 ebody manual to power disk front, org rear. Hard pedal and horrible brakes. I've bleed them several times and even have an adjustable proportioning valve. I'm leaning on rod length. i spent years restoring it, hoping to get some years of enjoyment out of driving around LA instead it just sits tucked in the garage. i think I'm gonna go the route a buddy did on his Chevelle and add the hydro boost? has anyone with this problem swapped a manual to power brake rod and have had the problem resolved?
 

robert power

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yes that hydro boost would probably fix our problem just does not look stock.

IMG_1005.JPG
 

fasjac

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I have a similar problem with my cuda.I have the ssbc offset booster with 4 wheel wildwood disc brakes.I removed the guts out off the proportioning valve and installed an adjustable one and its wide open.not sure off the bore size of the master as it came on the booster.Also have an electric vacuum pump.Car stops just won't lock them up.also upgraded pads to better friction material.Maybe someone has ran into this and can give me some ideas
 

fasjac

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Do you remember how much vacuum you had before and then after you installed the electric pump?
 

Huskidrive

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I have the same problems with my Right Stuff disc brake conversion kit. I couldn't lock these wheels on ice if I tried. I replaced the booster and master cylinder twice no change. 20 inches of vacuum......
IMG_2405.JPG
 

fasjac

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That's plenty of vacuum for sure. On my 73 cuda I'm running the factory booster and master cylinder. 12-13" of vacuum. Wilwood front disc only and I can lock em up at any time. I did replace the brake lines (and used their steel braided lines), rear cylinders & shoes. All Brake fluid replaced with dot 4. I did use a phonematic bleeder and went through the brake in steps from Wilwood. I did use a pneumatic evac and bleeder kit too.
There seems to be a lot of problems with people converting to disc/pwr disc brakes. There's only so many components to look at. I have to lean on the correct master cylinder issue. The post I've read on A & B bodies seems like the same issues and some say the smaller master cylinder was the fix???
 
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