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70 barracuda convert back to the future

jujuka

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Ok, I'm not big on pictures of my restorations or documenting anything I've done to a car except for a long list of parts, prices and places I got them on an excel sheet.
But on this car, I'm going to make an exception. It's my forth e body convertible. It's my first numbers matching car. It's my first manual top. and it's my first ew1 car, triple white in fact.
It does have the fender tag and it shows this is an L code 383 2 barrel. Automatic 727 with matching numbers. However at some point someone changed the intake and carb to a 4 barrel carter J9 4732s.

I really didn't know if I was up for another restoration as I'm closing in on retirement, and face it, there is not that many e body convertibles to restore anymore, but I was looking through the craigslist ads on search tempest one morning and came across this ad for a 70 barracuda that had just gone up. Ok so, I'm in California the car is in Michigan, it had a lot of pics and a good description and I decided to go after it.
Hmmm, buying a car across the united states, site unseen, off craigslist? What could go wrong? Well, nothing went wrong! The guy I bought it from is a great guy. From our first couple conversations I could tell he was a solid guy. From the paperwork to the transporting. I can't thank him enough. Whew, what a relief when it finally got here though!

So, when I got it in the shop I really didn't get any surprises. Exceptions: the stainless trim was in a lot better shape than I thought, it has rally dash trim installed, but a loose standard dash, 3 speed wiper, the console is immaculate, and at some point someone installed the pump for a top, the wiring is factory, but the rams are manual and there is no p37 code on the tag. Getting to body and panels, one thing I've learned over the years is if you buy a car on the east coast there will be rust. Well there is plenty of it. I'm used to lower quarters, trunk pans, inner fenders, maybe a floor pan, but this one will need frame rails and torque boxes. I have a list going with roseville, thanks to SFEbody on this site. Doors, front fenders, cowl, under the rear seat, wheel wells, quarter panels and rockers all seem solid. But overall it's not for the faint of heart.

My plan is to finish stripping this thing down, and take it up to metalworks in Oregon, where they can dip this car and I can get a clean canvas for the metal repairs on a restoration that will take a long time.
I've never had a car dipped so feel free to comment either way on this. There's lots of pros and cons. Here's a few pics of the car, teardown and rust

70 barracuda.jpg


drive shaft tunnel.jpg


engine bay.jpg


driver side 2.jpg


driver side.jpg


full car left side.jpg


left front frame at front torque box.jpg


left rear frame at torque box and spring mount.jpg


floor 5.jpg
 

jujuka

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Yep this one will be fun. Looking forward to the whole process. It's cool to think these cars are 50 years old and us owners are taking care of them or restoring them to last another 50 years!
The other car is my 70 Challenger. The rust wasn't bad on that one but it was just a shell with a convertible top frame20211205_164816.jpgoriginal_file_home.jpgResized_IMG_20140912_105954577_458409870125116.jpeg when I got it.
I'm just a few hours away from starting it up for the first time in almost 30 years! I needed the convertible weatherstripping from the barracuda so I could adjust the windows to the top. Where is Soft Seal when you need them!!
 

fk5aar

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challenger looks real familiar lol…..exactly how I got mine…..as a painted shell…..is yours a factory RT? Here’s the options for mine
 

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Cuda Hunter

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A triple white vert is an awesome combo! Great looking car.
Any other cool stripe items or anything on the car?
I'm dying to see the fender tag since it's a 70 BH car.
More pics please!!
 

jujuka

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Ok , so I dropped off the car at metal works in Eugene, Oregon a few weeks ago. Incredible shop up there. Over 30 classic cars of all different makes in line ahead of mine. The guys were great helping me roll off the car and loose items. It'll be a 3 month wait for me to get the car back so it gives me plenty of time to get parts. Jon at Roseville has already sent some of the sheet metal order, I ordered most of the interior from legendary, I'm working on an exhuast system from tti, brake system from inline, wiring harnesses from m&h, and I'm just stating to look at the fuel system. I have found that I prefer to get whole systems from a single source. If I can.
Not to mention breaking down parts for the powder coater, having the numbers matching 383, transmission and rear end rebuilt, sending some of the stuff out to have restored and researching all the stuff like lights, trims, grills and bezels. So much to do!!
Here's a few pics. When I get the car back I'll update
 

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FY1TopBanana

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Looking forward to seeing the vert come back!
15 yrs ago this JH27 was getting the treatment.
body prime 1.jpg

WRT the dip process, I went with media blasting using polyester beads on the beauty surfaces + behind them and recycled glass on the underneath, inner fenders, etc. Areas like your crusty floor pan underside clean up nice with #60 glass.

I did this in Puget Sound so closest dip at the time was BC IIRC.

In blast booth everything went to bare metal, seam seal all came out, and left usual stubborn undercoating touch up spots. Trunk pan was gone as most of rear floor pan so you avoid cost by not blasting them. (With dip you are effectively paying for cleaning up metal that is gone.) Both rockers and cowl had areas where a patch was required that were opened up to blasting as well. Frame rails were solid but inner rails were touch up blasted once the old pans were cut away. Protocol we used was once we were in clean metal and epoxy prime we por-15 the pinch welds and seams. After sealer coat and paint they will get factory seam seal. Rockers get por injection down the length until it comes out the drains once the metal repairs are finished up.

The next 50 years will be a lot easier on them now!
 
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Brcuda7t1

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Looks great, and pretty complete. if your replacing the wiring harnesses, both classic and Year one have them in stock although the non rally dash harness is year one only and they just got some in.

also as other people pointed out Legendary Interiors is 6 months or more out.
 

Brcuda7t1

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It's starting to get painted. The numbers matching 318 and 904 transmission have been rebuilt. I should have the car back in a couple of weeks:)
 

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Duda

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Ok , so I dropped off the car at metal works in Eugene, Oregon a few weeks ago. Incredible shop up there. Over 30 classic cars of all different makes in line ahead of mine. The guys were great helping me roll off the car and loose items. It'll be a 3 month wait for me to get the car back so it gives me plenty of time to get parts. Jon at Roseville has already sent some of the sheet metal order, I ordered most of the interior from legendary, I'm working on an exhuast system from tti, brake system from inline, wiring harnesses from m&h, and I'm just stating to look at the fuel system. I have found that I prefer to get whole systems from a single source. If I can.
Not to mention breaking down parts for the powder coater, having the numbers matching 383, transmission and rear end rebuilt, sending some of the stuff out to have restored and researching all the stuff like lights, trims, grills and bezels. So much to do!!
Here's a few pics. When I get the car back I'll update
Oh my it sure is a lot of time, brain stress, $ and fun all rolled into one rebuild. i can honestly appreciate the time you have to apply to this project as it will be very rewarding but is a lot of hours. Good luck and enjoy it. I do love the car and look forward to the progress.
 

jujuka

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Hi guys, here is a little update on my project. We picked up my car last month after a long wait for an acid bath. Metal works is an amazing facility and Bo and his guys are great to work with. For those that don't know they are in Eugene, Oregon.
Came back pretty much as I expected. The only real surprise was I needed a new under rear seat floor pan. But over the last four months I was able to get all the hard to get sheet metal replacement parts from AMD. It's in a body shop in Ventura now and the guys down there do an insane job putting these cars back together. They did my first challenger years ago so I know what I'm going to get.
It will probably take a little while down there maybe 6 months? I don't know It's a really busy shop. Ok for me I need some fishing time!
In the meantime I have gotten the numbers matching motor, trans and rear end rebuilt and restored, a lot of parts like the heater, wiper and steering box, instrument cluster, are in the shop getting restored, I've bought a lot of parts like all the wiring harnesses and a full interior from legendary,
EXCEPT the rear interior panels in white, HELP! yes a convertible.
Haven't really got a lot into the powdercoater yet except my k frame. When I get the steering box back I'll be able to set up the motor and trans on the K frame and cart and get some more pics. Haven't touched any of the convertible frame yet. It's a manual unit so I'll keep it that way.
Next up I'm going to start collecting brakes and suspension parts. It'll be nice to have that stuff ready to install on the car when I get it back and I think it's the best and fun part of the build. All those brand new parts up against that brand new paint? Eye candy!!
 

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NBK R/T

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challenger looks real familiar lol…..exactly how I got mine…..as a painted shell…..is yours a factory RT? Here’s the op
challenger looks real familiar lol…..exactly how I got mine…..as a painted shell…..is yours a factory RT? Here’s the options for mine
Mine VIN is very close to yours. It’s JS27N0B115258.
 

fk5aar

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Very cool nbk rt….mine has white rt strip and black hood treatment…..love your bumble bee stripe!!!
 

NBK R/T

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Very cool nbk rt….mine has white rt strip and black hood treatment…..love your bumble bee stripe!!!
The bumblebee stripe doesn’t actually belong in the car however I’m keeping it for the restoration. It was originally a longitudinal stripe but trying to keep it also movie correct.
 
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