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My Cold-Case radiator installation

MoparcudaRay

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Cold-Case Mopar Radiator installation



Better late than never!

My super positive experience, installing a Cold-Case aluminum radiator in my 1971 Barracuda pictures included.

Was having what I thought were radiator overheating problems with my aluminum Champion 4 row radiator that came with the car originally at purchase as fairly new.

After much ado I found out that the engine may have a blown head gasket so the radiator was not the factor for the extreme overheating issues.

I posted on my Mopar forums the problems I was having with another radiator company I tried and their lack of customer service.

That is when a representative from Cold-Case Radiators graciously reached out to me with an offer to try their radiator and that they would work with me and the Mopar community to address any fitment issues so that they would be able to sell us a product that fit right the first time hereafter.

Long story short I bought the radiator and installed. It was way easier than I thought. When I opened the well packaged box I was impressed on how well it looked already polished. They can be painted black for those that like or prefer the stock look. Once painted would be hard to tell it was not an original old Mopar style radiator. Also came with a fancy aluminum billet radiator cap.

The radiator pretty much fit as is but the holes at one end of the radiator support were not in the correct location. I had to drill 2 new holes.

Here is the BIG difference between the prior radiator company and Cold-Case, Cold-Case offered from the beginning to replace it with a correct fitting one if it did not fit right. The other more expensive radiator manufacturer said to just stop complaining about the little things, drill holes and live with it.

Cold-Case just asked me to give them the correct measurements in order to do so. So I will replace it with the “new” one when it comes in and report on that installation in the future.

I will insert pictures in order from the way it was packaged, opening, and preparation to final installation in installments. If any questions, I can answer them before proceeding to the next steps, in the pictures below them.

Technical data:

With Champion 4 row temperatures would reach up to 230 if ran more than a half hour in idle and about from 190 to 200 on the highway. Once off the freeway and onto the street would quickly overheat to around 220.

Under the same conditions the Cold-Case 2 row temperatures would only be 210 at idle and down to 180 to 190 on highway. Once off the freeway and onto the street would heat up to around 200.

Even with the overheating engine problem quite a big difference in temperature range.

I know I have to fix the underlying engine problem but at least in my mind it shows that even under those conditions, at least in my case the new radiator lessens the overheating problem.

The way it was when I bought it. Except with new chrome top radiator hose and removed chrome 5” radiator shroud.

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tonysrt

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Do they make a shroud to fit? That would also alleviate some of the cooling problems. I have a BeCool rad and they don't make a shroud for it,or they didn't ten years ago. I had to use a universal one.
 

moparleo

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A few recommendations for anyone working on their cooling system. Flush out the cooling system every 2-3 years. Replace hoses when needed or every other cooling system service. Check all belts also. There are 3 types of coolant but older cars only really have a choice 2. Ethylene Glycol for non aluminum cooling systems. Iron block, heads, water pump, copper/brass radiators. Use with a 50/50 mix of distilled water and coolant. Do not use tap water. Distilled water has all of the minerals that are normally dissolved in tap water removed. Tap water will cause the minerals to clog and corrode the cooling system components. Ethylene glycol is the most efficient type of coolant but is not designed for modern cooling systems that are almost 100 % aluminum based and require a different type of coolant with anti-corrosion chemicals to protect the aluminum components. Propylene Glycol is used in most aluminum based cooling systems. Always use distilled water and mix the coolant 50/50. You can buy the coolant premixed which is more convenient but you are paying a lot extra for the water. Or buy distilled water form any grocery store for about a $1. per gallon.
Coolling system problems account for the most vehicle breakdowns in the U.S.
Test and replace your thermostat as needed. Use factory recommended temp. Use high quality parts. Test and replace radiator cap. For the older Mopars (60's and 70's) a 16 lb. is the most common size to use. Install a coolant recovery tank/system. This keeps the radiator always topped full of coolant. Use a fan shroud, always. Use the original rated clutch fan, not fixed flex blades. The clutch fan only works when the cooling system requires more air to flow through the radiator and disengages when not needed. No constant parasitic drag, loss of power. The most common cause of overheating is not the thermostat, which is the item most replaced when the car starts to run hotter than normal. But is rarely the problem. Check the radiator cap first. The purpose of the radiator cap is to pressurize the cooling system which depending on coolant condition will raise the actual boiling point several degrees above the normal 212 degrees at sea level. 220 degrees is not necessarily overheating. Modern cooling systems run on the hot side. It helps to lower emissions. Always perform PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE to keep your ride happy and dependable.
Look at the photo showing the inside of the radiator. Look at how small the openings are on the core passages. Wouldn't take much to restrict the coolant flow. Oh, and btw black is a better radiator of heat. The black paint used on conventional radiators is actually a special formulation to help radiate/dissipate heat more efficiently but any black will work better than none.
 
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AUSTA

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I had much the same experience with a cold case on my small block,great radiator
I used Caterpillar ELC coolant boiling point 265 F at 15 Pounds pressure 1,000,000 mile
and is cheaper than the red ,blue green varieties available don't use the cheap green as i did.
Had to do some work on the ali edelbrock heads after 300 mile & the coolant had already started to eat them away.
My engine re builder put me onto the Cat coolant he uses it on all his rebuilds never had a comeback due to corrosion.
 

MoparcudaRay

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Do they make a shroud to fit? That would also alleviate some of the cooling problems. I have a BeCool rad and they don't make a shroud for it,or they didn't ten years ago. I had to use a universal one.
I do not know because I intend to put a stock OEM one on and it looks like they have the holes for that and or the brackets already to go. Here is their website: Cold Case Aluminum Radiators
I will ask them also if they do although my guess is that they just make it to use our Mopar ones.
 

MoparcudaRay

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Some easy prep installing automatic trans cooler lines. Also some installed with aforementioned hole placement shown.
I need to clarify that the transmission lines on my particular car had been cut that way because instead of an OEM 727 automatic transmission I have an upgraded A518 modern overdrive transmission.
So that is not an issue with the Cold-Case radiator but with my customized transmission.
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Adam

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Actually water, even distilled, is somewhat corrosive. That is why it is full of minerals... If you have ever had a swimming pool you know the constant struggle to keep the pH balanced. Too high and it leaves deposits, too low and it will eat the plaster, pipes, ect.
Despite the theoretical problems I just run straight coolant and have never had a problem in many years.
 

Adam

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That radiator is a nice piece! Try to insulate it from the brackets or you could get electrolysis eating it up...
 

MoparcudaRay

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That radiator is a nice piece! Try to insulate it from the brackets or you could get electrolysis eating it up...

Excellent idea, can you give us more detail as to how to do it? Such as Plastic or rubber washer insulators?
 

Adam

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I used strips of rubber b/t the radiator and mounts, top & bottom. Also make sure the radiator is not used as a ground. There is a lot of info on the web, including Griffin Thermal Products, at griffinrad.com
 

MoparcudaRay

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While at it I decided to put a replacement OEM wiper liquid reservoir and use it for its intended purpose and not like some who I have seen use it for a radiator overflow tank instead.
My understanding is that not until '73 or '74 did they even have an overflow tank it just ran from the radiator nipple to the street from '70 to '72.
Below is my setup for both. Mopar put it between the battery and the engine which I did not like.
Notice it also lets me see the anti-freeze level at a glance from the front radiator support hole.

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MoparcudaRay

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Installation of Mopar 7 blade clutch fan and clutch fan assembly. Seems to be the perfect distance so just awaiting to install OEM fan shroud.
I used Grade 8 bolts for added piece of mind.

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MoparcudaRay

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I have contacted Cold-Case and they will be commenting on the fan shroud and any other questions regarding their radiators.
 

tonysrt

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The bottom line with this radiator is that you had to make a lot of adjustments to make it fit. From the tranny line to holes in the radiator support. These companies shout bolts right in till you have to make it fit. We mopar guys are at the mercy of these Cos..
 

MoparcudaRay

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The bottom line with this radiator is that you had to make a lot of adjustments to make it fit. From the tranny line to holes in the radiator support. These companies shout bolts right in till you have to make it fit. We mopar guys are at the mercy of these Cos..

I need to clarify that the transmission lines on my particular car had been cut that way because instead of an OEM 727 automatic transmission I have an upgraded A518 modern overdrive transmission.

So that is not an issue with the Cold-Case radiator but with my customized transmission.

On the other point, I did not have to drill any holes that I did not want to do momentarily until the new replacement correct fitting radiator is sent to replace the one on there now.

Remember, this whole thread is about Cold-Case having me test out the radiator design so that they can make one like you say that fits correctly the first time. Unlike many other radiator companies that may leave you high and dry.
 

tonysrt

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Well then I'm happy to see someone working with a Mopar guy to sort out any problems you have encountered. I'm also glad you clarified the tranny line configuration.
 

MoparcudaRay

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Well then I'm happy to see someone working with a Mopar guy to sort out any problems you have encountered. I'm also glad you clarified the tranny line configuration.

Your post made me realize that I will have to clarify that point on my other Mopar forum threads, so thank you lol
 

Ccas

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Hey guys, Sorry for the late reply. I was suppose to be setup to get notifications of topics here on the e-body forums. I apologize for not being around to answer some questions. I think I have it fixed! So in the future, I hope to be able to answer your questions directly on the forums. thanks!
 

tonysrt

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Have they confirmed that the problems you encountered were fixed. You said in your first post Cold Case would send you one with the proper hole fitment after you sent hole measurements to them. Have they reconfigured one to your specs? I had a 22" rad and put in a spectra 26" in a 74 Duster. I also had to drill 2 holes to secure it. The 26" is only 2 core but it fits pretty good.
 
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