Continuing my dash project, I decided to tackle my non working rally cluster clock. Since I've played with auto clocks before, I did not hesitate doing this repair myself.
I assumed the clock needed cleaning and lubrication as this is the typical reason they fail to work. After removing the clock from the gauge cluster, I found that the back can be removed by bending 4 tabs and exposing the clock movement (still attached to the face).
I cleaned the movement by spraying CRC electric circuit cleaner (evaporates fast). Without lubrication, the clock would not run for more than a minute. I tested the rewind solenoid and found that to work fine. I sanded the contacts of the rewind mechanism to ensure a good solenoid circuit.
On closer examination, I noticed that the wheel that is pulled by the winding spring did not sit parallel to all other gears. I could straighten it with finger pressure. It turns out that the hole supporting the back (towards back of clock) pivot pin of that wheel had worn and elongated due to the spring tension.
To fix this issue, I needed to further disassemble the movement. I just needed to remove the solenoid portion to expose the plate with the elongated hole. This required carefully pinching the ends of the three posts that support the movement and sliding the solenoid component off. I founded the smallest steel washer I could find, leveled the rewind gear and crazy glued the washer to the plate covering the elongated portion of the pin's hole. You can see the washer in the photos below.
With the bearing plate now exposed, I could lubricate all the gear bearings and I used a toothpick to reach gear pins that were not exposed. I used clock oil for lubrication, but I understand that 0w 40 synthetic motor oil is a good substitute.
I reassembled the solenoid portion of the clock and connected it to a 12V DC supply. It's been working (and keeping good time) for three days.
