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Learning things the hard way.

bullet18

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The engine is in! It took all day to do but its finally in. It sits like a funny car because i cranked the trosion bars all the way down to install them and then forgot about it. Theres still alot of work that needs to be done before it starts and the engine is probably gonna have to come out again to fit the headers and the new starter but for now its in.

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bullet18

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Thanks! Does anyone know what newer engines i can take a starter off of? Im going to the junk yard Wednesday and need to know what to look for. Theyve only got early nineties to mid 2000s cars.
 

quapman

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Dakotas and full size trucks with V6 or V8 Magnum engines should have the right starter. Pre-98, I think. Make sure you get one with two terminals, not the one with one terminal and one snap-in connector.

If you find the right seller, ebay has new starters for $40.
 

bullet18

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Dakotas and full size trucks with V6 or V8 Magnum engines should have the right starter. Pre-98, I think. Make sure you get one with two terminals, not the one with one terminal and one snap-in connector.

If you find the right seller, ebay has new starters for $40.
Thanks! I want to keep taiwanese parts to a mimimum on the engine and i can get a starter in the junkyard for $22.
 
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tonysrt

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I bought one of those $50 specials from ebay and it lasted a week. Couldn't contact vendor so bought one from Rock Auto at $70. Still working 6 mos. later.
 

quapman

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Denso - Wikipedia

I'm not sure if Denso makes their starters in Taiwan, but they are a Japanese company. All the mini starters are Denso or Denso knock-offs.
 

Bob Glover

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Going back to the air shock advise, I just removed a set from my 73 'Cuda and found the shock brace cross member was completely broken away from the frame rail on the drivers side. Had to reposition and weld the cross member back in place. Air shocks will transfer a lot of vehicle weight to the cross member as opposed to the spring perches where it belongs.
 

bullet18

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I bought one of those $50 specials from ebay and it lasted a week. Couldn't contact vendor so bought one from Rock Auto at $70. Still working 6 mos. later.
Thats what im trying to avoid as much as possible. I already bought a cheap distributor because i cant find them in the junkyard so im not gonna push my luck. Plus the starters in the junkyard are cheaper and hopefully i can get the bolts i need as well.
 

bullet18

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Going back to the air shock advise, I just removed a set from my 73 'Cuda and found the shock brace cross member was completely broken away from the frame rail on the drivers side. Had to reposition and weld the cross member back in place. Air shocks will transfer a lot of vehicle weight to the cross member as opposed to the spring perches where it belongs.
I checked again and it does look like the shock crossmember has a broken spot weld so ill have to weld that back together.
 

bullet18

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More pictures. Its sitting on the bump stops and the tires arent liking the big block either.

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moparlee

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Did you follow the service manual procedures when you re-installed the T-bars?
First remove the upper control arm bumpers. Then jack up the car up with the k-frame. Completely unload the suspension. Un-thread the cam adjusting bolts until only the ball tip is exposed on the top of the block. With the lower control arm hanging as low as it can go, rotate the torsion bar receiver and adjustment arm/cup down against the adjuster bolt ball tip. In that position, the bar's hexes will line up the way they should, grease, and tap into bars into place. Install the C-clips in the torsion bar support. Turn the adjusting bolt in about half way. Don't do any final height adjustment until the wheels are back on the ground with the engine and transmission installed. Also make sure you have the T-bars installed in the proper R and L positions. If you did follow all of this I would say that your T-bars are too weak.
 

bullet18

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Did you follow the service manual procedures when you re-installed the T-bars?
First remove the upper control arm bumpers. Then jack up the car up with the k-frame. Completely unload the suspension. Un-thread the cam adjusting bolts until only the ball tip is exposed on the top of the block. With the lower control arm hanging as low as it can go, rotate the torsion bar receiver and adjustment arm/cup down against the adjuster bolt ball tip. In that position, the bar's hexes will line up the way they should, grease, and tap into bars into place. Install the C-clips in the torsion bar support. Turn the adjusting bolt in about half way. Don't do any final height adjustment until the wheels are back on the ground with the engine and transmission installed. Also make sure you have the T-bars installed in the proper R and L positions. If you did follow all of this I would say that your T-bars are too weak.
Yeah i still have to do ride height adjustment. The torsion bars are for a 318 and theyre twisted even when theyre completely unloaded so i definetely need new ones but i hope to make it to the nats on these. Honestly that could be a pipe dream but ive been told that torsion bars are pretty bulletproof.
 

Adam

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Going back to the air shock advise, I just removed a set from my 73 'Cuda and found the shock brace cross member was completely broken away from the frame rail on the drivers side. Had to reposition and weld the cross member back in place. Air shocks will transfer a lot of vehicle weight to the cross member as opposed to the spring perches where it belongs.

Bullet, you need to reach up and feel the top of the rear shock mount, above the shock bolt holes. And throw those air shocks in the trash. Although, with a 70, the shock plugs are on top, so you may be able to look, and weld (if necessary) through the top..
 
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bullet18

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Alright, i checked out the rear shock mounting points and they arent cracked. I adjusted the torsion bars and put air in the tires (one of which had 4 psi which i didnt even know was possible) so the ride height is reasonable now. Im heading to the junkyard monday if theyre open to get a starter, a radiator, a second seat if they have the right one, maybe a driveshaft and hopefully steering coupler components as they used them through 93 in some trucks.

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tonysrt

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I thought for a minute I was looking in my garage.
 

Chryco Psycho

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You should have no problem finding a Mini starter they are common , look for hyundai tiberon seats , they are very comfortable & fit well .
Rad could be tougher , make sure you have the right side lower inlet obviously , you could use isolated mounts & run a large alum rad
 

bullet18

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You should have no problem finding a Mini starter they are common , look for hyundai tiberon seats , they are very comfortable & fit well .
Rad could be tougher , make sure you have the right side lower inlet obviously , you could use isolated mounts & run a large alum rad
Thanks for the info!
 

bullet18

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I rolled it outside for the first time in almost 2 years and put the fenders and hood on temporarily while we reorganize the garage.

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