Hughes whiplash cam.
770 holley street avenger carb.
Not sure on the distributer. Proform maybe.
My question is does setting a lower initial timing (going from 17 to 13) cause the gas to boil over and flood the carb?
440 has 180 thermo and runs cool and dosent overheat
I recently changed the timing on the challenger (440, late model engine with large cam). It was set at 17* initial and all in at 38*. It ran rich and a little rough.
I now set the timing at 13* and all in at 34*. The car runs much better but I am maxed out on the distributer curve.
How does an electric fuel pump stop heat soak. If you have a carb, won't the fuel boil over regardless of electric or mechanical.
The fuel is still in the floats of the carb.
Can you explain why it solves the problem. I'm interested in doing a swap, just don't understand the logic.
The only way to know what options the car came with is from the build sheet or tag.
The vin has only limited info.
If you can get any info off your build sheet that would be the only way.
I thought data tags still did mopar tags though
Seems like the problem is the fill tube, it's a big hole, the new cars have a fill hole just barely larger than the gas pump nosel.
An adapter plate, making the hole smaller might work to stop the fuel.
Just a thought
I'm doing the alt bypass this weekend. I read up on lots of posts and got great advice here on wire.
From the posts some people leave the old alt wire going to the ammeter and add another wire to starter relay and some remove the ammeter wire.
I just want to bypass wire and leave the original...
So I'm doing an alternator bypass. I have gone to every autoparts store here and there either out or don't have anything over 10 gauge.
Where can I buy or order online 8 gauge wire and a 10 gauge fusible link to go with it?
Already tried rock auto, auto zone, pep boys, summit racing.