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I installed the aaw kit into my 70 duster. At first it was absolutely overwhelming. Million miles of wire and connectors was staring me in the face. I only used a volt/ohm meter. In a couple of cases I had to use butt slices but had those on hand. I also bought several rolls of wire wrap to make...

Only relevant to need the heat riser if using the OE style carb with divorced choke (in manifold) in cold climates. Aftermarket carbs have electric chokes that are independent. Some later divorced chokes had electric assist elements too which would also negate the need for the riser and open...

Your decision on what to run, but I use Progression Ignition distributors in my cars. The timing is adjusted via bluetooth on your phone and can be adjusted on the fly. No more changing springs & bushings. Not much more money than the name brand distributors that still need tuning to run...

I also put a PI distributor on my 408 (360 magnum) stroker in my 70 Duster. I am using the male tower style cap instead of the female style. With that setup I also am using a Blaster 2 coil. Combo runs great. Not sure how much room you have between the back carb and the distributor on your 6...

None whatsoever. I am using trickflow heads and had concern with fitment. The PI folks said I could get it and if it did not fit they would take it back. You could contact them and see if they have any info on fitment with the heads you are using.

Though expensive, I use the progression ignition distributor system. I have it on my 512 and runs great. Tuning the curve is all via bluetooth. Simple installation. You will need a better aftermaket coil. I use a 50k e coil I got from blueprint engines.

I may be wrong, but seems to me if you cannot adjust the plate for more advance you might simply be able to move the spark plug wires one over and readjust the plate back all the way and start that way. Would certainly be cheaper than buying a "fix" like this. Just a thought. Maybe someone with...

Hey, if moving that plate fixes your problem then it's an easy fix. Why the engineers did certain things... who knows?! Every manufacturer had their own nuances.

If you remove the distributor and turn it over you will see where you can loosen a bolt to change how much "swing" it has. It may be possible to change this to get you where you want to go.

Most header installations almost demand the shorter filter due to clearance. If your filter is that hard to get off then it may have been tightened too much when installed.

Is it a flat tappet engine? If so you definitely want oil with zinc. What is your oil pressure hot? You can keep using that 10/30 oil but I would use quality 10/40 to give a little better hot viscosity.

That should do it. Their description verifies it.

That trans is not as valuable as a 73 up non lockup is. The newer Trans has the part throttle kickdown module and bigger bushing on the pump support housing. A complete unit as a core may fetch $150.

When they ask what's under the hood just tell them it's a little small block, with a smile.

Just think about the expertise you've gained in this troubleshooting exercise! Priceless!!!

I had a 2021 R/T Scat Pak with the 392. Was fun to drive but I never abused it. Had to be careful of road conditions when accelerating. Traction can be a challenge. On the hiway steady speed it got 25+ MPG. I got it from the original owner with 80 miles on it! Driving home from church I had a...

I had the same issue when I was wiring my American Autowire harness to the front end lighting. I bought two new side marker lights and wired them up. As soon as I clicked the headlight switch on the fuse blew. I isolated it to the side marker lights so did a continuity test and found the wires...

Agree completely! I believe the slap stik is the finest auto shifter ever put into our Mopars!

I my mind I always equated mechanical secondaries with those Holley carbs that had dual squirters. Does not make me correct but that's how I run.

Absolutely. The AVS2 650 is an excellent carb.