Our Mopars tucked in for long ND winter. Orange EV2 72 Challenger Rallye w 340 4spd, Inviolet 70 Cuda AAR w nm340-6 & auto, Red 74 Duster w 408 auto street/strip, and 2014 Charger R/T 5.7L.
If you are taking it apart, look at a diagram of carb first. There is a screw in center of carb that is hiding from view (I think head is on bottom of carb). Do not pry top off the plastic bowl. There is a Dodge TSB for Thermoquad that is on the website for Hamtramck Mopar site Section 14...
When you redo electrical, I would recommend bypassing the ammeter. Run a #10 or #8 wire from alternator to battery stud on starter relay. Include a fusible link in the wire too. This is a safety mod to reduce possible fire from bad connection on bulkhead connectors. This is the MAD method...
Hey Grady. You make me tired just looking at all the work you have done. Great job. The detail work is fantastic. Could you post a list of your reference books and sources please. I noticed several pix from ICCA book that I would like to buy. Thanks a lot.
Hey Grady, the work is looking great. Good job. It seems like you have all original details for correct OEM restore. But if you need any pictures to compare, let me know and I can send.
Hi Grady, I like the pix of your T/A. Are you doing some engine work or a whole resto? I like that color. As you can probably figure out from my handle, we have a Cuda AAR. I love those Trans Am e-bodies. Ours is a survivor w 64,000 miles and we have no plans for restoration. Couple small...
I want to buy a dash cover for our 70 Cuda to protect dash from sun during carshows. I found several vendors but no pictures of actual cover just generic pictures. Has anybody bought one that fit & could recommend vendor. Thanks
You can adjust the freeplay in the steering gearbox also. That will help with steering wheel play. Sorry didn't see pages 2 & 3 before I posted. Great work on repairing the rust rot also.
There are vin numbers stamped on body in various places, like radiator yoke, rear window/trunk frame, and maybe more. You should research that and find what is required to legally register that car before you sink money into it. If it's a strip only car, you're ok w no title.
If you have 500 lb-ft torque, you should have the 727 TQ built w good clutches and shift package you want. If you keep the 3.23 rear gear, you shouldn't need OD. If you want the OD then get a Keisler Auto w OD (a modified GM trans made to fit mopar engines). I think the Keisler auto will fit...
For a normally aspirated small block, you can have one from column a and one from columm b. By that you can get 500 hp from a 340 with super ported heads and high duration/high lift cam and rev it to 7000-7500 rpm. But that takes good valve train and tuning and maybe race gas.
Or put a 4"...
If you can open the hood take a picture of the fender tag that has all the vin info and all the options to see if engine,paint, & options are original. There are vin decoder threads on here and FABO site in forums. Also take a refrigerator magnet to check the lower quarters, front fenders...
There has been quite a discussion of leaf springs and vendors on For A bodies only site. Do search on that site. Depends on your intentions for the car on the lift. If it's a mostly driver and stock looking don't get the lift, keep it stock height. It will have better handling and to my...
If shifter has park and will shift automatically, then no reason not to drive on street. If it won't auto shift, then more of a pain. You can put standard pattern valvebody in it too.
Good idea to remove spark plugs and squirt some Marvel Mystery Oil in cylinders (or whatever magic oil you prefer). Then crank engine over without spark plugs until you get oil pressure. Then if everything seems ok, put in plugs and start it. It has worked good for me.