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340 Intake manifold

KennyCuda

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Im thinking about doing my 340 intake manifold gasket. ( getting a leak in the back where it meets the head) Do i have to remove the distributor to change the gasket or can i leave it be ? Does the 340 have a valley pan gasket or is that just for big blocks? What gaskets do you recommend to use. Fel Pro ??
 

MerlinsMopars

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Felpro works. I seal them with 3m hi tack. A light coat around the water and intake ports along with the front and rear runners. Pay attention to the corners of the front and rear gaskets. More sealer there. The cork ones work fine but if you can get the rubber front and rear ones, they are even better. Torque left and right evenly from the middle outward. No valley pan on stock intakes. You can scribe a mark on the distributor and block so it drops right back on timing. Keep the reluctor pointing where it came out.
Good luck!
 

KennyCuda

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not sure if I'm gonna do it or have someone do it .
 

KennyCuda

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Ive done them before but its been along time kinda loose confidence as you get older
 

Edward Hackett

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Im thinking about doing my 340 intake manifold gasket. ( getting a leak in the back where it meets the head) Do i have to remove the distributor to change the gasket or can i leave it be ? Does the 340 have a valley pan gasket or is that just for big blocks? What gaskets do you recommend to use. Fel Pro ??
I've never had to remove the distributer to replace a manifold on a 340, and one has a six-barrel factory manofold, and the other the '68 factory cast iron AVS manifold.
The front and rear corners are where most of these leak. Just be sure not to use sealant anywhere near the intake ports, or when it dries, it may suck some into the engine.
I agree with the other post, have at it yourself. It's not hard, and far more rewarding.
 

moparleo

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Have a clean space to work in. Plenty of room for the parts that you remove. Proper tools including torque-wrench. Proper replacement parts, gaskets, coolant, sealers. Bypass hose and clamps if they are older. Just plan ahead, take your time, have a helper.
Take pictures with your phone. This is also what your Factory Service Manual (FSM) is for. Free downloads on line. Just print the section for the service you are going to do. After you are done you can toss those pages if you want.
 

Chryco Psycho

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Make sure you block the heat crossover , unless you are driving it in cold weather there is no need for it & it just gets the carb too hot
 

KennyCuda

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use like they say a tin can ? also they used prints gaskets with the rubber from fel pro is that a good gasket to use
 

MoparCarGuy

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use like they say a tin can ? also they used prints gaskets with the rubber from fel pro is that a good gasket to use
Yes, the Fel-Pro 1213 gaskets are excellent. They do not have the heat crossovers cut out but the paper will burn away if you do not block them with sheet metal. Any thin shim stock can be used to block the exhaust crossover. Some aftermarket intakes and heads do not have the heat crossover so no shim would be necessary on these.

Example: Edelbrock Performer RPM AirGap
1605153251117.png
 
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KennyCuda

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thanks i have a stock manifold and heads the guy in the video said use the aluminum from a beer can
 

KennyCuda

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are the Fel Pro 1213 gaskets ok to use with a stock intake and heads
 

MoparCarGuy

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are the Fel Pro 1213 gaskets ok to use with a stock intake and heads
Yes, the 1213 gaskets will work fine on stock intake and heads. If you want the heat crossover working, just carefully cut out that portion of the gasket with a razor knife to open it up for exhaust heat to the bottom of the carburetor. Most do not want the heat and they also wire open the passenger side factory exhaust manifold's heat riser.
1605384326292.png

The heat riser is closed on a cold start and opens up when the coiled spring expands just like a choke spring does. While it is closed, most of the passenger-side exhaust heat is routed up through the intake manifold, "crossing over" to the driver's side exhaust manifold. In colder climates it is a necessity for faster warm-up but for performance applications it is unwanted. If you use headers, crossover heat would be reduced but adding metal shim-stock blocks is what most people do.
 
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