• Welcome to For E Bodies Only !

    We are a community of Plymouth Cuda and Dodge Challenger owners. Join now! Its Free!

70 barracuda BIG project

Badfish70

Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2020
Messages
15
Reaction score
5
Hey everyone, bought my first e body this past Sunday, it has been my dream to own a 70 barracuda/cuda. I came across this one and fell in love with the original color. It’s an EK2 vitamin C orange car with black interior. It’s gonna need a ton of work and I don’t even know where to start but it has some cool pluses I think such as the color and early production car. All frame rails are gone, crossmember shot, floors no Bueno, quarters fenders and doors garbage, basically the roof structure is whats good on the car. But here’s some pics of the fender tag and build sheet. Lemme know if I’m off my rocker or not! 😂

2E59A4E3-9755-49CA-9FA4-B8C73E8EB1C2.jpeg


6722C1FB-2D1B-49FB-8CA2-7DF30DBCCE02.jpeg


0BDB2813-2C04-4C65-8988-DA14367EB635.jpeg


CF9DB41E-11B7-404A-AC92-1DB492A8EA50.jpeg


1C4E583D-184D-4716-B05C-F64302F4DC43.jpeg


7CD44D38-F257-4E5B-A5A1-DF1B09705CC3.jpeg


5A4A96D4-3159-42BB-AA76-D1AA4631F004.jpeg


631CF683-A540-46DF-A0FF-38FBD3A12B19.jpeg


A6072B07-C69F-48A1-BC10-C65FB9C2BE2F.jpeg


98C7C4F2-0552-4F97-94C8-EA829DF42042.jpeg
 

Rapidfire

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2019
Messages
1,086
Reaction score
740
Location
Culbertson Nebraska
Welcome to FEBO! Greetings from Nebraska! Nice to see you on the forum! Kinda far gone but anything can be brought back with a lot of determination and money! I've seen worse cases! JMO!
 

Chryco Psycho

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2008
Messages
4,441
Reaction score
2,081
Location
Panama
Welcome from Panama !
Anything can be saved , it depends what your plans are , if you plan to keep it then Maybe it is worth it to you to save it , if you plan to resell for a profit run away now !
It just depends on your budget & ability to finish it , I bet you coul dbuy a better car for less than fixing this one tho .
Any 318 Auto car is not worth a lot restored clone it into a better car & it will still be worth less aa real "Cuda"
 

budascuda

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2017
Messages
1,106
Reaction score
569
Welcome from Canada.
They always look worse than they are.
I would get going on it anyway, even if you decided half way to get another Cuda, you will have learned alot about the type of rust problems and the different ways to restore e-boddies plus this one will be in a better state .
Just remember, people remove too much steel during their restoration, if the sheet metal is workable in some areas, just work it.
The best of luck to you.........
 

Cuda Hunter

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2008
Messages
3,000
Reaction score
1,055
Location
high mountains Colorado
Cool car! EK2 is one of the best colors every offered.
Yes it can be saved.
Has a build sheet too! That's a huge bonus. I've had close to 20 ebodies but not one build sheet.
 

gzig5

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 10, 2018
Messages
393
Reaction score
131
Location
Mequon, WI
Congratulations. You definitely have your work cut out for you. But it will be a labor of love.
Where are you located? I have some extra panels and rear cross member that would get you started, but I don't think it wouldn't make sense to ship them.
 

DetMatt1

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 13, 2009
Messages
7,854
Reaction score
2,068
Location
Metro Detroit
Welcome to the site from the Motor City! I’d run for the hills from that thing but I hope you don’t. With a sequence number like that it had to be built in the first few days of production.
 

moparleo

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2011
Messages
6,938
Reaction score
1,723
Location
So. Cal. Riverside area Moreno Valley
:welcome: aboard. That car would be a challenge for even a top restoration shop.
Worth it ? Only you can decide that. Not from a stand point of value vs. cost to restore.
If this is your first complete restoration and/or major uni-body restore/replacement project and/or you don't have major $$$ to spend. Pass on it. To many negatives vs positives on this one. I would keep looking for a complete low cost roller.
Too easy to get discouraged on something like this. You an get complete new bodies from companies like Dyna corn or check with the AMD installation center for estimated cost and possible leads on project cars.
You will save many thousands of dollars in the long run .
Good luck on whatever you decide.
 

340challconvert

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2011
Messages
5,190
Reaction score
2,731
Location
Parsippany, NJ
:welcome: to FEBO from New Jersey
Great color and an August 15th early build. Resto for this car is not for the faint hearted. It would be an extensive financial investment and you would be over what the car is worth. If you go ahead, you would get plenty of welding and bodywork practice. Oh heck; I always want to save them all! Go with your gut and good luck with what you decide to do.:thumbsup:
 

moparlee

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2011
Messages
2,919
Reaction score
1,219
Location
Mid Michigan
You are only off your rocker if you don't have the funds, time, skills and tools to carry out that amount of work and if you don't decide to sell it when you are done.
BTW, how are the rockers? :p
 

fasjac

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2019
Messages
2,248
Reaction score
1,131
Location
Arkansas
Welcome to the site from Arkansas! I love the car and color as well. If it hits you like that, go for it. It’s only money and we’ll make some more. May want to fall in love with it and KEEP it though.
 

Cojohnso

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2019
Messages
190
Reaction score
97
Well, Good news? Certainly no sin to build to your liking. The 318 G-code w/auto trans not on the high demand list. So make it yours. This guy has been stripped of most everything. Your choices are endless. AAR clone? All the way to a crate Hemi monster. My personal recommendations is to a performance Restomod? Less expensive and far more forgiving on build. Besides, they are getting real money these days. Maybe even a Gen III performance build? Again, Many options. Let everyone know here on progress. And of course? Good hunting.
 

BuckeyeCuda

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2019
Messages
115
Reaction score
23
Location
Akron, Ohio
I hope you are young and an eternal optimist. I have found through many rebuilds, that it takes about 4x the expected time and at least 3x the expected cost. But, if you are young enough (as we get older, we get more cynical or realistic, and give up on never-ending projects). I have sent lesser cars to the crusher, but it can be salvaged.
Start with the frame rails and cross-member, and build from the bottom up. Thankfully, parts are available now that were not there a few years ago, and then you can spend your sweet time to think what engine you want for it..... Good Luck...
 

NoCar340

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 25, 2014
Messages
365
Reaction score
307
Location
Upper MI
You're in over your head... and that's the best way to learn to swim.

"Anything that was built can be rebuilt." --my best friend.

The best advice I can give you? Don't be afraid of learning. I had barely used a welder, much less done any body work, when I decided I could change the roof panel on my Challenger by myself. I did exactly that, wiithout so much as help lifting it out of the enormous box. I test-fit the thing 13 times by lowering and raising it with two ratchet straps slung across the garage-door rails (single door). None of my body-guy friends say they could've done it any better.

That gave me the courage to replace the floors and a frame rail in my Valiant. We did that in a friend's garage because he wanted to learn about it too. The car wasn't worth saving, but I did anyhow. We ended up rebuilding a rocker, patching areas the new pans didn't cover, and fabricating a section of a different frame rail while we were at it. "Cheap tuition" is my term for it. After those two projects, I'm (perhaps foolishly) confident... I don't think anything's too far gone at this point. The friend I quoted above is restoring a '68 Charger that's even worse than your car. His is not only a 318/column auto, but triple green... but it was his first car, which I found after we'd lost track of it nearly 20 years prior. The car was so rusty, a torsion bar literally fell out on the tow home, taking half the transmission crossmember with it.

First thing: Get yourself a factory body service manual. Check and correct your dimensions, get the car stabilized (wood blocks, welded-in angle, concrete blocks, whatever) and formulate a plan, starting at the frame rails. Don't cut off anything you're not replacing immediately--there's no shame in tack-welding something to a panel that's going away later, even if that weld is in the wrong place on the old panel. You just need to hold things in place for the time being; welds can be cut and ground easily enough.

Unless you have a very versatile spot welder, most of your former spot welds will become plug welds. Do yourself a huge favor and get yourself a pneumatic hole punch. You'll wonder how you've lived without one. I have an Astro ONYX 608ST, but anything similar will do. The Astro is cheap and mine has literally punched thousands of holes without issue, as well as stamping dozens of feet of flanges (the opposite jaw is a panel flanger).

It isn't always going to go your way. Know when to walk away. Trying to work through frustration on a project like this can lead to an avalanche of failure. One small misstep in one spot can leave you several inches off four panels later. You can come back when your mind is more clear, with a refreshed attitude, and accomplish more in less time.

Try and do something, no matter how little, every chance you get. Even if you've only got 20 minutes to drill a few spot welds (a Blair Rota-Broach is your best friend, run slo-o-o-owly) you've accomplished something and kept your momentum going. The world is full of garages with cars in them that someone walked away from for a week and hasn't gotten back to a decade later.

My crappy old Valiant still has bondo, body panel rust, no appearance improvements and no collector value (I love a good beater, and even better sleeper). That car is dimensionally straight and rock solid, and I get a real feeling of accomplishment knowing I made that happen and kept it from the crusher.

You're a long way from the goal line, my friend. Be patient, keep your eye on the prize, and stay motivated by staying busy. In a year or two you'll have the ultimate "built, not bought" story and more pride in your car than just about anyone else with a collector car. No one can criticize you for whatever changes you make, options you add, or anything else--because they wouldn't have saved it in the first place.

We may not be there to physically assist, but you've got a great internet support team (and cheering section) here. Now get after it!
 
Last edited:

70chall440

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2010
Messages
1,260
Reaction score
976
Location
Western Washington
Just metal, it can be done. Yes it is going to take an extraordinary amount of work and you will definitely be challenged along the way but take it one step at a time and you will get through it.

The first thing you need to do is find a base from which to start, something that is relatively intact from which to work from. Then focus on the substructure to get it set and solid. from there you can work on the rest of the car.
 

Badfish70

Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2020
Messages
15
Reaction score
5
Sorry I haven’t responded to anyone, things have been a little crazy lately. I was thinking of selling the car and try to break even on it but I kept flip flopping so I’m gonna hold onto it before I sell it and regret it. It will be a while before I get started on her but thank you for everyone’s responses, I appreciate all the input and encouragement. As soon as I get her going I’ll share my progress with everyone, till then I’ll be gathering parts. Thanks again everyone, already happy to be apart of the community

You're in over your head... and that's the best way to learn to swim.

"Anything that was built can be rebuilt." --my best friend.

The best advice I can give you? Don't be afraid of learning. I had barely used a welder, much less done any body work, when I decided I could change the roof panel on my Challenger by myself. I did exactly that, wiithout so much as help lifting it out of the enormous box. I test-fit the thing 13 times by lowering and raising it with two ratchet straps slung across the garage-door rails (single door). None of my body-guy friends say they could've done it any better.

That gave me the courage to replace the floors and a frame rail in my Valiant. We did that in a friend's garage because he wanted to learn about it too. The car wasn't worth saving, but I did anyhow. We ended up rebuilding a rocker, patching areas the new pans didn't cover, and fabricating a section of a different frame rail while we were at it. "Cheap tuition" is my term for it. After those two projects, I'm (perhaps foolishly) confident... I don't think anything's too far gone at this point. The friend I quoted above is restoring a '68 Charger that's even worse than your car. His is not only a 318/column auto, but triple green... but it was his first car, which I found after we'd lost track of it nearly 20 years prior. The car was so rusty, a torsion bar literally fell out on the tow home, taking half the transmission crossmember with it.

First thing: Get yourself a factory body service manual. Check and correct your dimensions, get the car stabilized (wood blocks, welded-in angle, concrete blocks, whatever) and formulate a plan, starting at the frame rails. Don't cut off anything you're not replacing immediately--there's no shame in tack-welding something to a panel that's going away later, even if that weld is in the wrong place on the old panel. You just need to hold things in place for the time being; welds can be cut and ground easily enough.

Unless you have a very versatile spot welder, most of your former spot welds will become plug welds. Do yourself a huge favor and get yourself a pneumatic hole punch. You'll wonder how you've lived without one. I have an Astro ONYX 608ST, but anything similar will do. The Astro is cheap and mine has literally punched thousands of holes without issue, as well as stamping dozens of feet of flanges (the opposite jaw is a panel flanger).

It isn't always going to go your way. Know when to walk away. Trying to work through frustration on a project like this can lead to an avalanche of failure. One small misstep in one spot can leave you several inches off four panels later. You can come back when your mind is more clear, with a refreshed attitude, and accomplish more in less time.

Try and do something, no matter how little, every chance you get. Even if you've only got 20 minutes to drill a few spot welds (a Blair Rota-Broach is your best friend, run slo-o-o-owly) you've accomplished something and kept your momentum going. The world is full of garages with cars in them that someone walked away from for a week and hasn't gotten back to a decade later.

My crappy old Valiant still has bondo, body panel rust, no appearance improvements and no collector value (I love a good beater, and even better sleeper). That car is dimensionally straight and rock solid, and I get a real feeling of accomplishment knowing I made that happen and kept it from the crusher.

You're a long way from the goal line, my friend. Be patient, keep your eye on the prize, and stay motivated by staying busy. In a year or two you'll have the ultimate "built, not bought" story and more pride in your car than just about anyone else with a collector car. No one can criticize you for whatever changes you make, options you add, or anything else--because they wouldn't have saved it in the first place.

We may not be there to physically assist, but you've got a great internet support team (and cheering section) here. Now get after it!
 

fastmark

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2014
Messages
183
Reaction score
67
Oh my. You are getting some poor advice my friend. I assume you bought the car already. I hope it was cheap. I live in Texas so we don’t even attempt a car like that because of the rust. When you say all frame rails gone, it’s just not worth it. I have owned, bought, sold and restored many ebodies. I have been selling off a few of my former parts cars to people who can only fine rusty scrap up north. To prove my point, just do some free investigation on your pile of rust. Clean it out and write done every piece of sheet metal that needs replacing. Then go to the AMD website and start pricing all those parts. Do it yourself. Don’t bother some body shop that knows you will never follow through with this insane project. Just get the price of the panels. Figuring the labor is hard to do so just ignore it for now. After you’ve spent several hours, the amount will blow you away. Now figure you’ve got a 318 car. It’s not a big deal even with the color. It’s a 70 and that’s all it’s got going for it.

Like I said, I sell lots of project cars. I just sold several 70 Barracudas. The prices were from $5500 to $20,000. NONE OF THEM NEEDED FRAME RAILS REPLACED. The $20,000 car had original paint that was still shinny! I sold a complete 73 for $9,000 that only needed a trunk pan from rust and one quarter from damage. The doors, fenders, floorpans, hood, and frame was all RUST FREE. I’ve only had to advertise one car. Most just sell by word of mouth to people. They are real easy to sell when I advertise. My problem is I have a couple of cars that I need to sell but I’m busy with a couple of customers builds in my part time restoration shop. I like to build, install and tune motors the best. Building cars is not my full time job. So, when I finish my next motor build, I’ll bring in the next Barracuda to assemble to sell. It will be between $10 to $16 depending upon the parts I put back on it. It does not need frames replaced. I’ll post it on this board for sale.

I’m not the only person with cars to sell. You just have to look for them and pay what they are worth.
 

gzig5

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 10, 2018
Messages
393
Reaction score
131
Location
Mequon, WI
If the rear rails and trunk floor are toast, you can replace everything at once with the Dynacorn assembly.
70-74 E Body Trunk Underseat floor and Rear Frame Assembly | Roseville Moparts
The ad says it is for a challenger but it is universal and fits all year E-bodies. I put one in my 73 Cuda this past spring. There are a few distributors so shop it around and pay attention to shipping. Roseville will give a disount to E-body forum members. This assembly will save a ton of labor and everything will be fresh and strong. It's nice to start with a clean dry car, but not everyone has access to them and sometimes you have to bite the bullet and jump in with both feet.
 

Badfish70

Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2020
Messages
15
Reaction score
5
I had already bought the car when I made the post, I did get a good deal on it. Unfortunately I’m in New York, and I have looked all over the country for a fairly priced 70 barracuda, and either wasn’t in a position to act on it or people are asking $5k for this same kinda car. I don’t know many people in the mopar community here in central ny so word of mouth isn’t really an option for me yet. I’m still not positive what I’ll do with it yet, but if something better comes along maybe I can at least use it for some parts. If you have any more solid $5k 70 barracudas around please let me know! I’m naming this car the Barleycuda haha

Oh my. You are getting some poor advice my friend. I assume you bought the car already. I hope it was cheap. I live in Texas so we don’t even attempt a car like that because of the rust. When you say all frame rails gone, it’s just not worth it. I have owned, bought, sold and restored many ebodies. I have been selling off a few of my former parts cars to people who can only fine rusty scrap up north. To prove my point, just do some free investigation on your pile of rust. Clean it out and write done every piece of sheet metal that needs replacing. Then go to the AMD website and start pricing all those parts. Do it yourself. Don’t bother some body shop that knows you will never follow through with this insane project. Just get the price of the panels. Figuring the labor is hard to do so just ignore it for now. After you’ve spent several hours, the amount will blow you away. Now figure you’ve got a 318 car. It’s not a big deal even with the color. It’s a 70 and that’s all it’s got going for it.

Like I said, I sell lots of project cars. I just sold several 70 Barracudas. The prices were from $5500 to $20,000. NONE OF THEM NEEDED FRAME RAILS REPLACED. The $20,000 car had original paint that was still shinny! I sold a complete 73 for $9,000 that only needed a trunk pan from rust and one quarter from damage. The doors, fenders, floorpans, hood, and frame was all RUST FREE. I’ve only had to advertise one car. Most just sell by word of mouth to people. They are real easy to sell when I advertise. My problem is I have a couple of cars that I need to sell but I’m busy with a couple of customers builds in my part time restoration shop. I like to build, install and tune motors the best. Building cars is not my full time job. So, when I finish my next motor build, I’ll bring in the next Barracuda to assemble to sell. It will be between $10 to $16 depending upon the parts I put back on it. It does not need frames replaced. I’ll post it on this board for sale.

I’m not the only person with cars to sell. You just have to look for them and pay what they are worth.
 

sir_veza

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2021
Messages
159
Reaction score
70
Location
Brampton, Ontario Canada
Hey everyone, bought my first e body this past Sunday, it has been my dream to own a 70 barracuda/cuda. I came across this one and fell in love with the original color. It’s an EK2 vitamin C orange car with black interior. It’s gonna need a ton of work and I don’t even know where to start but it has some cool pluses I think such as the color and early production car. All frame rails are gone, crossmember shot, floors no Bueno, quarters fenders and doors garbage, basically the roof structure is whats good on the car. But here’s some pics of the fender tag and build sheet. Lemme know if I’m off my rocker or not! 😂

View attachment 79069

View attachment 79070

View attachment 79071

View attachment 79072

View attachment 79073

View attachment 79074

View attachment 79075

View attachment 79076

View attachment 79077

View attachment 79078
Hello From Ontario, Canada. Actually my former neighbor bought a 1966 Charger from a farmers field in Alberta in very similar shape. Took him five years or so to restore. Good thing is there are parts available on-line these days you couldn't get a few years ago especially in U.S. ...just have to be careful where you order from.
 
Back
Top