70 Non A/C heater box stamping

[Jalaska907]

Hello! Im in the process of rebuilding my non a/c heater box and i have a few questions.

1) My box was spray painted black, so all paint marking were gone. How do I know what stamp is correct for the box?

2) Was wondering if anybody had the correct rivets or knew where to get them, if so, if they have a part nuember it would be great.

3) I bought the deluxe kit from DMT, Not included was the round rubber door seal, does anybody have one or know where to get one?

4) After blasting the small metal parts, what brand and color are you using to achieve the bare steel look?

 

[Grady Cain]

1.) Non-A/C heater box part number is 2936602 and can be stamped in various locations. Here is the link to where to find this: www.e-bodies.org/resources/mopar-stamps-stencils-paint-ink-part-numbers/ Date code stamps for the heater box are also available from this company. I did not find any date code stamped on my heater box when I cleaned it.

2.) As I have mentioned before, these are called tubular "truss head" rivets and you will need a special tool to install them. You will have to determine the size and length you need but that is simple with a pair of calipers. They are available online. Here is one link for them: www.fastenal.com/products/details/0157302

3.) No one I know of reproduces the round rubber seal you are talking about. I just masked mine off before bead-blasting the metal door. If your rubber seal is destroyed or missing, you would have to find a parts heater box or someone willing to part one out and replace the entire door.

4.) I would recommend heat-tank cleaning the bare steel parts to remove paint and/or grime and using "Evaporust" to remove the surface rust and restore the parts to their natural steel look. Then they can be matte cleared to protect the steel from further rust. If the rust doesn't come completely off and they require blasting, they will need painting. I used Seymour brand "Stainless Steel" spray paint to refinish the cable brackets, etc on my heater box (photos of this are on my build thread which I know you've seen.) There are other paint choices that closely recreate that natural steel look. Eastwood, SEM, POR and Rustoleum all make similar finishes - trial and error here is your best bet. Buy a few different brands to see which one restores the look you want.

Hope this helps and Merry Christmas!

 

[Jalaska907]

1.) Non-A/C heater box part number is 2936602 and can be stamped in various locations. Here is the link to where to find this: www.e-bodies.org/resources/mopar-stamps-stencils-paint-ink-part-numbers/ Date code stamps for the heater box are also available from this company. I did not find any date code stamped on my heater box when I cleaned it.

2.) As I have mentioned before, these are called tubular "truss head" rivets and you will need a special tool to install them. You will have to determine the size and length you need but that is simple with a pair of calipers. They are available online. Here is one link for them: www.fastenal.com/products/details/0157302

3.) No one I know of reproduces the round rubber seal you are talking about. I just masked mine off before bead-blasting the metal door. If your rubber seal is destroyed or missing, you would have to find a parts heater box or someone willing to part one out and replace the entire door.

4.) I would recommend heat-tank cleaning the bare steel parts to remove paint and/or grime and using "Evaporust" to remove the surface rust and restore the parts to their natural steel look. Then they can be matte cleared to protect the steel from further rust. If the rust doesn't come completely off and they require blasting, they will need painting. I used Seymour brand "Stainless Steel" spray paint to refinish the cable brackets, etc on my heater box (photos of this are on my build thread which I know you've seen.) There are other paint choices that closely recreate that natural steel look. Eastwood, SEM, POR and Rustoleum all make similar finishes - trial and error here is your best bet. Buy a few different brands to see which one restores the look you want.

Hope this helps and Merry Christmas!

Thanks you very much, very helpful. I had to locate a used door for the rubber. After washing the heater box, I found the white stamping on it, but will need to stamp the yellow. Thank you again

 

[Jalaska907]

I had to use duplicolor stainless steel, not a fan of duplicolor, but I have yet to find any store here that sell seymour products. Last time I got cast blast from seymour, I had to order it and pay hazmat charges..

 

[Adam]

FWIW, my 71, non-ac box.

 

[Jalaska907]

View attachment 46481 FWIW, my 71, non-ac box.

Thank you for the reference picture