Titan1969
Well-Known Member
I wanted to share a few of my experiences on replacing the power brake booster on a 73 Cuda.
I purchased the picture rebuilt booster from Oriellys, it works well ( way better than 50 year old booster) but I had a few issues on install.
I pulled the old booster out relatively quick but reinstalling was a real PIA.
If I had to do this again I would have...
1) Inside the car removed the large bolt 3/4" one side and 11/16" other that holds pedal arm to the brake assembly
2) Remove the long bolt that goes through the spacers and hold the assembly to the support frame of the levers/assembly 9/16" nut and 9/16" bolt
This avoids the need to pull the cotter pins and pegs under the dash, that I thought would save me step 1 and 2 above...it did not save me time, PIA, just do 1and 2.
Bu following 1 and 2, you can then remove booster with under dash assembly attached and then swap all the levers, pegs, and pins on a bench versus under the dash.
The rebuilt boosters arm that goes into the car, has a hoop for the peg/cotter pin to attach to the pedal assembly.
This hoop was to big for the pedal assembly to fit over, so I had to grind it down a bit, see right side of first pic for the hoop. I did not take much to grind it slimmer.
the booster came with a spacer ( see pic 2), at first I thought I needed to include this on the master cylinder side, however with it installed the pedal goes to floow meaning to much space between the booster rod and master cylinder. So I just removed it and all is well.
Wow brakes grab quick and easy, I need to readjust my braking behaviors as it works really well now.
I purchased the picture rebuilt booster from Oriellys, it works well ( way better than 50 year old booster) but I had a few issues on install.
I pulled the old booster out relatively quick but reinstalling was a real PIA.
If I had to do this again I would have...
1) Inside the car removed the large bolt 3/4" one side and 11/16" other that holds pedal arm to the brake assembly
2) Remove the long bolt that goes through the spacers and hold the assembly to the support frame of the levers/assembly 9/16" nut and 9/16" bolt
This avoids the need to pull the cotter pins and pegs under the dash, that I thought would save me step 1 and 2 above...it did not save me time, PIA, just do 1and 2.
Bu following 1 and 2, you can then remove booster with under dash assembly attached and then swap all the levers, pegs, and pins on a bench versus under the dash.
The rebuilt boosters arm that goes into the car, has a hoop for the peg/cotter pin to attach to the pedal assembly.
This hoop was to big for the pedal assembly to fit over, so I had to grind it down a bit, see right side of first pic for the hoop. I did not take much to grind it slimmer.
the booster came with a spacer ( see pic 2), at first I thought I needed to include this on the master cylinder side, however with it installed the pedal goes to floow meaning to much space between the booster rod and master cylinder. So I just removed it and all is well.
Wow brakes grab quick and easy, I need to readjust my braking behaviors as it works really well now.
