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Best High-Amp Alternator?

Odin

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So I recently installed Vintage Air AC, Sniper Stealth EFI, Hyperspark CD Ignition/Coil/Distributor. I'm only getting about 12.0 volts charge when the AC is on. I have all new M&H wiring harnesses and bulkhead fixtures.
I want to install a higher amp alternator and bypass the ammeter.

I have a couple questions:

Which alternator do you recommend and why?
Can I remove the ballast resistor on the firewall?
Can I remove the voltage regulator on the firewall?
 

70chall440

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1. Denso 120A from a late model Dodge Ram or Dakota (89 - 9?) because you can get one at any parts store. You will need different brackets which I think are available from several places like AR Engineering

2. Do you mean get rid of it or move it? You can get rid of it if you car is wired for a different ignition system like a MSD or something AND is set up not to use it. If you are still using one you can move anywhere you like so long as you extend the wires but be aware that it can/does get hot so don't put it some place where that could be an issue.

3. Again, do you mean get rid of it or move it? You can get rid of it if you are using a charging system that does not require an external regulator and your electrical system is configured for this. You can move it anywhere you want if you extend the wires but here again, it can get warm (not hot) and it needs a good ground plus you will probably need access to it at some point.
 

AUSTA

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Measure with a voltmeter from the output terminal of the alternator to the positive battery terminal when running you may be getting volt drop meaning the wiring or connections in the main charging circuit cant cope with the higher load
 

sir_veza

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So I recently installed Vintage Air AC, Sniper Stealth EFI, Hyperspark CD Ignition/Coil/Distributor. I'm only getting about 12.0 volts charge when the AC is on. I have all new M&H wiring harnesses and bulkhead fixtures.
I want to install a higher amp alternator and bypass the ammeter.

I have a couple questions:

Which alternator do you recommend and why?
Can I remove the ballast resistor on the firewall?
Can I remove the voltage regulator on the firewall?
Stumbled across this article today as we're both sourcing the information (Kind-a) thought I'd share...
https://www.streetmusclemag.com/tec...rs-are-they-better-or-just-easier-to-hook-up/
 

Ridr

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I have Vintage Air installed on my Cuda and a Powermaster single wire Alternator and MSD ignition. My dual ballast resistor, voltage regulator and control box are only for show. Volt meter shows 13.5-14.5. Everything works fine.
 

Odin

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I have Vintage Air installed on my Cuda and a Powermaster single wire Alternator and MSD ignition. My dual ballast resistor, voltage regulator and control box are only for show. Volt meter shows 13.5-14.5. Everything works fine.
That is kind of how I have been doing things. As an item is no longer needed with the updated configuration, I tend to leave it in place to give a more stick appearance at a glance. There are many things that are no longer stock under the hood, but I try not to make them all jump out at once when you open the hood. I even painted my Vintage Air compressor black to look similar to the original and I ran the cooling and heating lines through the factory bulkhead locations and left the heater fan cover in place instead of running the lines through the old fan location. The photo is from last December before all the fuel and ignition system changes were made.

Tomorrow I am installing a 100A Powermaster squareback with an internal regulator and a one-wire hookup by passing the ammeter using an 8 gauge wire. I will leave the ballast resistor and voltage regulator in place for show.

2019-12-26 014.JPG
 

Challenger RTA

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A new wiring harness is a good start. there are good point made here. the article

sir_veza linked is a good read and information. It is an in general article​

.It doesn't address each manufactures faults. To the point chrysler's wiring was antiquate for current.for the time and now. the problem is Age and adding more than it was designed for and the bulk head connection.The connections for alt,battery,headlights,blower motor wiper motor and rear defrost motor are the high current draw.May be others.​

the high low beam switch is a weak point​

The battery and alternator connections are the weak connections. They act as a fuse dose, it limits the current then heats up but doesn't blow like a fuse would,it burns. As you probably observed all the other connection are ok. Even a new wiring harness will have the same problem,over time. As far as what alternator any one that meets you load needs with changes to charging system. By all means bypass the ammeter. chrysler in later years did it. Ballast resistor ,dual start and run single is start. if I said that right. you have to look at the wiring requirements that came with the fuel and Ignition components. It may bypass the start. voltage regulator as the article reads.when using the one wire setup. yes.​

 

Odin

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A new wiring harness is a good start. there are good point made here. the article

sir_veza linked is a good read and information. It is an in general article​

.It doesn't address each manufactures faults. To the point chrysler's wiring was antiquate for current.for the time and now. the problem is Age and adding more than it was designed for and the bulk head connection.The connections for alt,battery,headlights,blower motor wiper motor and rear defrost motor are the high current draw.May be others.​

the high low beam switch is a weak point​

The battery and alternator connections are the weak connections. They act as a fuse dose, it limits the current then heats up but doesn't blow like a fuse would,it burns. As you probably observed all the other connection are ok. Even a new wiring harness will have the same problem,over time. As far as what alternator any one that meets you load needs with changes to charging system. By all means bypass the ammeter. chrysler in later years did it. Ballast resistor ,dual start and run single is start. if I said that right. you have to look at the wiring requirements that came with the fuel and Ignition components. It may bypass the start. voltage regulator as the article reads.when using the one wire setup. yes.​

It wasn't mentioned but I replaced all the wiring harnesses a little over a year ago when restoring the car.
 
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