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Clutch problems

Transmission and Drivetrain

  1. SFEbody

    SFEbody Well-Known Member

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    Hello Mopar experts..... first off thanks to everyone for helping with my driveshaft problems, that solved now the new issue is my clutch. When I depress the pedal, it does not engage the clutch. Can this merely be an adjustment. I have about 1/2" of clutch fork play now. SO my real question is, how far should the fork adjusting rod be screwed out or fork play to be in the ball park? and by the way, it is a 70, 440 with A833 4 speed
     
  2. KATSAAR

    KATSAAR Well-Known Member

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    you want 1/8 of clutch fork play.
    just enough so the T/O bearing doesn't have constant pressure.
     
  3. tonysrt

    tonysrt Well-Known Member

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    When you step on clutch pedal you disengage the clutch, when you release pedal, clutch engages. You may need someone to step on clutch while your under car to check clutch disengagement. It could also be that your clutch bit the dust and no matter how much free play will never work.
     
  4. SFEbody

    SFEbody Well-Known Member

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    Thanks tony.....but I am sure it has not bit the dust as it has 0 miles on it. Clutch, PP and TO bearing all new with my rebuild. Been many years 30+ that I did a 4 speed install. I am hoping it is the rod, I will lay under it while wife pushes the pedal. Much appreciated.
     
  5. rbbruno3

    rbbruno3 Well-Known Member

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    What did your conversion parts come from ? Zbar , clutch rod
     
  6. tonysrt

    tonysrt Well-Known Member

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    Check that the pedal has only about an 1" of free play. Didn't realize clutch was a new installation. Is this a new installation of clutch pedal also? Conversion from Auto to stick? Hope you get it solved so you can start driving it.
     
  7. SFEbody

    SFEbody Well-Known Member

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    no, was a slant/6 3 speed on the floor prior. Conversion parts came from Brewers
     
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  8. rbbruno3

    rbbruno3 Well-Known Member

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    When you push the pedal can you put it in geer
     
  9. SFEbody

    SFEbody Well-Known Member

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    No, not with engine running. I can move into gear without it running and have the rear tires on jack stands, and its engaged when started
     
  10. Daves69

    Daves69 Well-Known Member

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    IMO, Don't over adjust as you don't want to bend/stress any components if you bottom them out. Try to "sneak up" on it. Also have someone work the pedal while you watch all the parts for any lost motion from worn or broken components.
    .060" gap is a starting point for plate departure with a B&B. The plate fingers should not ride on the release bearing with the pedal up.

    ClutchAdj.gif
     
  11. SFEbody

    SFEbody Well-Known Member

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    Dave thanks so much. I will adjust tonight based on your diagram. SOOOO cool, wish me luck
     
  12. 704406

    704406 Well-Known Member

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    if your adjustment is ok, is there any possibility that you put the clutch disc in backwards? In other words there might not be clearance for the disc when the pedal is depressed because the disc hub is dragging on the flywheel retaining bolts.
     
  13. rbbruno3

    rbbruno3 Well-Known Member

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    That's what I was thinking 704406
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2018
  14. SFEbody

    SFEbody Well-Known Member

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    UPDATE...so I get home put the car back on the jack stands and remove the inspection cover. The travel of the fork is about 5/8" at this point and, I notice the adjusting rod is at an angle to the fork hole? But, I keep adjusting it out until i take the play out. Well, can't do it went all the way to the end of the tread and when I pushed in on the clutch pedal, the adjusting rod shot out of the fork Put it back in with less adjustment and no clutch. I am lost. I know it should not be this challenging but I am thinking it may be a combination...wrong Z-bar? and disk reversed? Advice is appreciated
     
  15. tonysrt

    tonysrt Well-Known Member

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    There maybe 2 different lengths of the rod that goes into the fork from the Zbar. Mine is 7" long.
     
  16. Daves69

    Daves69 Well-Known Member

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    My experience is mainly with the B&B set up. Is that what clutch set you have?
    You need to determine what you actually have.
    As I understand, you should have a 130 tooth flywheel and 10.95" (scalloped) Borg & Beck (picture below) style clutch setup along with the cast aluminum bell housing for the stock major components.
    Brewers or Passion (online) can aid in identifying other correct parts for you. These include, release bearing, clutch fork, fork pivot, clutch adjustment rod set, bell housing and frame pivot balls and bushings, bell crank, and clutch rod.
    If your components are all correct you need to find why you lost the adjustment window. A couple items may include incorrect positioning of the engine / trans assembly, loose mounts, bent fork pivot, or even one tip of the fork not engaging the release bearing pad (and it always seems to be the top side BTW). This last item can happen easily as the trans is installed if the release bearing turns on you.
    www.brewersperformance.com/4speed.php
    Passon Performance | Passon Performance | Get your SHIFT together!
    Clutch3.jpg
     
  17. SFEbody

    SFEbody Well-Known Member

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    I give up, taking to a tranny hope Tuesday, willed everyone know what the professionals tell me I messed up. Again, thanks all for trying to help but my technical ability on Trans is very low
     
  18. tonysrt

    tonysrt Well-Known Member

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    Sorry to hear that you couldn't get the problem solved. A lot of info was thrown at you, but it's hard trying to diagnose a problem without actually seeing it. I Hope you don't have to remortgage your house to get it fixed.
     
  19. Daves69

    Daves69 Well-Known Member

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    Got to be Mopar club folks in your area. Have you searched for any locals?
     
  20. SFEbody

    SFEbody Well-Known Member

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    Ok so since Tonyrt said his adjustment rod is 7" i got under mine again and it is only 5" in length. Could that be all I need is a longer Rod...( thats what she said) LOL???