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Console bracket mounting location

Brent Johnson

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I’m needing the console bracket mounting locations for 70 challenger RT with 727 auto. I ordered the brackets from Classic and it has new floor pans installed. I’ve searched Google and I’m not having any luck. Any help would be greatly appreciated. My body guy is close to completing the metal work and getting ready to fit and prep for paint. Thanks in advance.
 

moparroy

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This might help you. On my Cuda the console shifter had been replaced by an inline shifter when I got it - but the base of the factory shift mount was still in place on the side of the hump. Attached is one of a few photos I took before I cut out that original base in preparation for welding in a new mount. The front bracket above / behind the torque rod hole is original (assume) in place when I got the car. I have not finished the assembly but I believe this is a good reference.

100_2534.JPG
 

moparroy

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BTW ignore the hole on the top of the tunnel - I believe that was part of the in line shifter which I have since plugged
The pic is for a 360 727 car but I would think this is common location on the body for any engine?
 

Don Benson

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I found these pictures that really helped me with my recent console install. These are measurements from the seat belt bolt hole on the trans tunnel (“hump “). I welded in the front shifter rod small bracket first then worked backwards. I positioned the console in place before I welded the next two brackets to insure it fit and was aligned properly. I hope this helps but others may have better instructions.

36A4880B-E613-4A6E-8D10-654107F2998D.jpeg


871EA5EA-349E-4105-AA5C-7E5D6344B1B5.jpeg


F6EF5CCC-1B8B-414B-A353-731636DFCBEA.jpeg
 

NoCar340

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The last time I did this--admittedly, years ago--I started by drilling the three screw holes for the boot flange. The screw holes were dimpled in the pan (on an original) so that was easy. I then started assembling the linkage starting at the transmission working back to the countershaft. I drillled the hole for the countershaft using the shaft's bracket as a guide. Once the boot was in place, I was able to completely assemble the linkage, locating the pivot bracket and shifter to it, both bolted to their floor brackets. At that point, two of the brackets pretty much located themselves and could be welded.
Once those were in place I screwed the rear bracket to the console, strategically slathered some paint on its tunnel contact points, and carefully set the console in place with the paint still wet 'n' sloppy, being careful to get the screw holes aligned. After lifting the console, I had a nice area of wet paint on the tunnel, the perimeter of which I marked before cleaning it up. I welded that bracket in and boom--as good as factory, maybe better.
It was way easier than trying to be "exact" by screwing around with measurements. There is no "exact" on these cars. They were not precision-assembled by craftsmen. They were slapped together by guys with hangovers trying to get through the day while a shift foreman yelled about geting more cars built. For a more-accurate installation, peform the entire operation with a headache while your wife yells about the house needing paint and your mother-in-law reminds her she could've married that nice Jason Voorhees boy that took her to the prom. 😄
 

Adam

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The last time I did this--admittedly, years ago--I started by drilling the three screw holes for the boot flange. The screw holes were dimpled in the pan (on an original) so that was easy. I then started assembling the linkage starting at the transmission working back to the countershaft. I drillled the hole for the countershaft using the shaft's bracket as a guide. Once the boot was in place, I was able to completely assemble the linkage, locating the pivot bracket and shifter to it, both bolted to their floor brackets. At that point, two of the brackets pretty much located themselves and could be welded.
Once those were in place I screwed the rear bracket to the console, strategically slathered some paint on its tunnel contact points, and carefully set the console in place with the paint still wet 'n' sloppy, being careful to get the screw holes aligned. After lifting the console, I had a nice area of wet paint on the tunnel, the perimeter of which I marked before cleaning it up. I welded that bracket in and boom--as good as factory, maybe better.
It was way easier than trying to be "exact" by screwing around with measurements. There is no "exact" on these cars. They were not precision-assembled by craftsmen. They were slapped together by guys with hangovers trying to get through the day while a shift foreman yelled about geting more cars built. For a more-accurate installation, peform the entire operation with a headache while your wife yells about the house needing paint and your mother-in-law reminds her she could've married that nice Jason Voorhees boy that took her to the prom. 😄
I agree; I would likely position the console in the place it needs to be to shift, and work backwards. If doing it by measurements and it ends up a 1/4 inch off, that would not be good.
 

Don Benson

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I agree; I would likely position the console in the place it needs to be to shift, and work backwards. If doing it by measurements and it ends up a 1/4 inch off, that would not be good.
There are slots in the back bracket so there is easily room for 1/4” adjustment.
 

NoCar340

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Get the shifter linkage in place first. That makes it easy to align and install the shifter (including welding) so it's working correctly before worrying about the console itself or its rear bracket. With a working shifter, the console locates off its forward screw holes, which have factory slop... er, adjustment just like the rear. Make sure the top plate fits over the shifter bezel to your liking before setting the rear bracket (centered and straight). Then locate the rear bracket using the paint method above as a guide. It's way faster than futzing with a tape measure.

It's easier to show someone than it is to type it out, and typing it out isn't all that hard. Once you're started, you'll have a "Now I get it!" moment where everything starts to make sense and flow. Work progresses very quickly after that. Start after lunch and you'll have a working floor shifter & console before supper's ready.
 
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