Corroded/Melted Positive Terminal on Alternator

[jimkov]

I took the car out for a drive today and noticed ot was getting harder to start. Thought it was just getting hot but when I check the positive terminal had snapped off due to corrosion/melting. Any ideas what could be the problem.


At the time of the issue I have the ammeter bypassed by moving both terminals to one side of the gauge. I have a ground directly to the Fram on the alt and recently checked the voltage regulator and is was working. I have been driving a few times a week short distances since I did all the changes and had normal opposition until today.

 

[Xcudame]

Looking at your alternator, it looks to me, you are the victim of a cheap chinese knockoff! I made the mistake of buying a cheap Chinese alternator for my 98 Dakota. The old one is back on as the new one busted trying to install it! It's lying on the ground in front of my barn after I threw it a few times against a concrete block! I'm getting disgusted with all these cheap crappy parts from China!

Honestly, except for an occasional bearing going out, usually the only thing an original factory alternator needs is brushes. I'd get an old used alternator from a junkyard, put new brushes in it and run that! In Texas, there should be plenty of wrecking yards near you. You'll have to replace the wire pigtail on your harness!

I'm now patting myself on the back for all the old parts I've kept over the years! They're better that new ones!

 

[jimkov]

Haha it's a Tuff Stuff alternator. From talking to my father in law I have too small of a wire for the output of the alt. I got a a higher output due to the electirc fans. Going from 12 gauge to 6 gauge.

 

[Xcudame]

Factory still looks better than the over priced Tuff Stuff. I'm not a supporter of electric fans! The more mechanical and hydraulic, and less electrical is better in my book! Like my 89 Cummins!!

 

[Challenger RTA]

few times against a concrete block!

That's The best way to ground check it.

 

[Challenger RTA]

. Any ideas what could be the problem

2 scenarios. 1 as Exucuda stated. Chinese's crap! The alternator stud insulator allowed the stud to ground out. That being said the current from the battery also grounded out through there too!
2 The wire looks like it was a bad connection and would heat up like a fuse. Bad crimp or the corrosion that can be seen contributed to it or both.

So the hidden problem might be it melted the wires going to the amp gauge and around them, the bulkhead connectors and weakened the fusible like if battery current went through there.

 

[gran coupe john]

I used to rebuild Ford, gm, and Chrysler alternators back in the 70s. GMs always needed a regulator. Ford had issues with diodes. Chrysler always put out more amps, and would outlast Ford and GM. The Chrysler alts would last until it needed brushes. My opinion from experience is to use a Chrysler alternator from the 70s.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Since you have to do a repair. Maybe put a fusible link there? Better safe then sorry! Look like a 60 amp alternator you have. Fusible Link For Chrysler A/B/C/E/F Body 16 Gauge Universal Style #188BB | eBay