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Dana 60HD narrowing for an e-body

mbolin05

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I have a Dana 60 HD housing, and a trac lock, 30 spline, and I would like to narrow it for my barracuda. Originally it came from a 3/4 or 1 ton pickup.

I know it has to be offset side to side.

I know its a little heavier than the regular Dana 60.

I read of another person on another site that narrowed a 60HD for his e-body and wanted it because it was bulletproof. I don't necessarily need that as I am not racing, nor will I have 1000 HP to throw it, but its what I have and I can work with it.

Has anyone else narrowed a Dana 60HD? Anything special I need to keep in mind?

Thanks!
 

Chryco Psycho

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I did the same thing with my Challenger .
I used a pickup diff 3.73 with power loc sure grip , I narrowed mine down to the B body spec because the cut down tubes with the floating hubs removed are not long enough to do the E body width without replacing 1 tube .
For the ends I used the Furd tapered roller brgs , they are a bit larger & require a different end piece This is a far better option over Green brgs , tapered roller brgs will likely outlive the car , with a die grinder you can open the backing plates up a bit so the brgs fit through & everything bolts up .
If you use the offset mount from Dr Diff , move the springs inward & mount the spring pads in the right place at the right angle everything fits great & you can run a larger tire .
You will not have a snubber mount with the truck diff.
 
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mbolin05

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I did the same thing with my Challenger .
I used a pickup diff 3.73 with power loc sure grip , I narrowed mine down to the B body spec because the cut down tubes are not long enough to do the E body width without replacing 1 tube .
For the ends I used the Furd tapered roller brgs , they are a bit larger & require a different end piece This is a far better option over Green brgs , tapered roller brgs will likely outlive the car , with a die grinder you can open the backing plates up a bit so the brgs fit through & everything bolts up .
If you use the offset mount from Dr Diff , move the springs inward & mount the spring pads in the right place at the right angle everything fits great & you can run a larger tire .
You will not have a snubber mount with the truck diff.
Do you remember where you got the bearings and the bearing holders to weld onto my tubes? It must have been your conversion I read about, I just forgot where I read it at.

Do you have a link for the B body specs to shorten it to?
 

Chryco Psycho

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I used to work in a racecar frame building shop building race cars & suspension mods etc , we used to go to the wreckers & buy 6 Danas at a time to build for customer cars , we were a dealer for Strange so I bet they have the parts . I don't recall right now where I researched the ford tapered brg swap but I believe it was through Strange as an option when ordering the axles .
Here are the dimentions

rearaxledims.jpg
 
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Doc Corey

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Old thread, I know, but were you able to Make the HD 60 work, and if so, what ends and axle did you use?
 

Chryco Psycho

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I made a Truck Dana work for my Challenger , You can use the Mopar ends & everything will bolt up or there is a Ford tapered roller brg which is just slightly larger which I used , you have to machine the hole in the brake backing plates about 1/8 of an inch to go over the brg & everything will work properly .
 

70chall440

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I think if I was going to use a D60 I'd just buy a new one from Strange, like $2700 any length and gear. But I guess if I had a D60 in hand I might try narrowing it.
 

Chryco Psycho

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You always believe you are saving $$ using a truck diff I mean I could buy them for $50-75 from a wrecker & choose the gear ratio but it still works out to $1800 or more typically . For example the right side tube was too short once the floater was cut off so the tube had to be replaced also . I would always choose tapered roller brgs over green ball brg type .
I would talk to Cass at Dr Diff first or Strange , it works out that everything is new & exactly what you need for not a lot more .
 
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