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Dash/instrument cluster removal

btceng

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Got any tips on how to remove the dash or instrument cluster. I have to get to the wiring harness that goes to the ammeter. The red wire is melted from the alternator to the instrument panel. I'm having a problem figuring out how to remove the dash and/or the cluster.

Help please.
 

71droptop

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I have done this several times in my mopar life. First- remove steering column from car.Remove screws that hold fuse block to firewall. Photo or diagram wire plugs in fuse block. Unplug / label wire plug ins. Remove kick panels to expose 2 1/4" bolts that hold lower dash frame, loosen but dont remove. A pillars mouldings should be removed. Vent cables should be disconnected.(your choice at dash or heat control switch or fresh air duct ) Find 4 smaller screws in defrost area of dash. Support dash. Remove 4 screws , dash will pivot-roll away from firewall. Have a good flashlight available.Now you can remove entire dash and work on bench to rewire your dash.Not so bad......Good luck. Why did ampmeter wire melt?????
 

burntorange70

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Think you could get away with just taking the cluster out. Should just need to take out the screws holding it in and disconnect every thing from the back and pull it out. Should not have to remove the steering column but may need to lower it some. Also don't forget to disconnect the battery before you do any thing.
 

AlleyoopMgv

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Think you could get away with just taking the cluster out. Should just need to take out the screws holding it in and disconnect every thing from the back and pull it out. Should not have to remove the steering column but may need to lower it some. Also don't forget to disconnect the battery before you do any thing.

I have done this once before in my early days burnt, and it's better to do the other way, because they don't give you much room for slack in the wiring. Don't get me wrong, it can be done that way, it's just better doing it 71droptops way. This is how I do it now days. It seems like more work, but in the end it works better.
 

btceng

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Thanks. My car has a dash cap on it that was hiding the screws at the defrost vent. I now see what you are talking about. I'm not sure how the wire burned or when. I found it while disconnecting the wiring harnesses under the hood in order to prepare for pulling the engine. The fusible link at the solenoid was gone and it had been straight wired when I got the car. I did replace the link. The car has run fine ever since but I did notice that the wire at the alternator was also scorched and had been taped back up. The wire is burnt through the firewall plug and all the way up into the harness going up to the gauges. Luckily, the wire was in the bottom of the harness and it appears to not be shorted to another wire.

I thought that if the dash removal was simple enough, I will give it a go and try to make the necessary repairs. It looks like all of the trim pieces are screwed in from behind the panel anyway.
 

btceng

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I finally got it off and have attached a few pics of the issue. I'm not sure of the cause but I'm going to try to dissamble the harness and replace the red wire. Does anyone know of a source for the bulkhead connectors? I may have to look for a replacement on the used market.

The studs that hold the steering column up were a bear to get out. I couldn't get the dash out until I removed them. Another pic is of my.....progress???????
 

btceng

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Here's the pics.

burnt wire.jpg


bulkhead harness.jpg


progress.jpg
 

redlinegw

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The best thing to do is have the ammeter converted to a voltmeter and eliminate the fire hazard completely. Call Redline Gauge Works at (661) 259-8891 and talk to Shannon or Andy, they were the first company to offer amp to voltmeter conversions and they specialize in all things Mopar!
 

Chryco Psycho

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you can deal with the ammeter 2 ways , bolt the 2 wires together or better yet just make a jumper to go across both studs on the ammeter or just run a 10ga wire from the aLT OUTPUT around to the battery connection on the starter relay, this take most of the load off the ammeter circuit
 
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