First time starting

[cool72]

I have a 71 Challenger, auto trans, 440, Holley 600 cfm, electronic dist. Motor was completly overhauled and now produces around 375/400 hp ?? Installed the distributor with #1 cylinder on compression and rotor pointing to #1 cylinder. First attempt backfired through the carb, moved distributor ccw engine cranked normal, moved ccw little more and turned key to start position, nothing until the key went to the run position and the engine ran for about 3 sec. Engine tried to run after letting off the key. Any suggestions?

 

[74 challenger]

First did the car run before engine overhaul? Was 1 piston tdc? Fuel no problem?Check wires,its easy to mess up wrong location? Go to basics first and try again. Also someone chime in but I believe a 600 cfm will starve your 440 at high rpms.

 

[cool72]

Engine came out of a Mobil, ran but needed work. #1 was Tdc. Clear fuel filter, fuel getting to carb. I am in the process of confirming the wire locations. There are two balast resisters on the firewall, I think that may be the issue. In the process of upgrading to 700 cfm. Thanks for the reply.

 

[Steve340]

I am not sure of colours but there are two power wires. One supplies voltage while cranking the other supplies voltage in the run position.
The cranking one would go direct to the coil the run one would go to the ballast resister.
Only one resistor is required.

 

[cool72]

Thanks, I have to identify the cranking wires which should go to the starter then the running wires (other side of the resistor?) Where I also connect my ignition/tech wire? Sound ok?

 

[340challconvert]

This should help!

 

[340challconvert]

A little more detail:
shows wiring from starter relay to starter.

This one is courtesy of Shawge

 

[cool72]

Great detail, thanks much. I will post my results when the engine runs. Thanks again

 

[aussiemark]

The fact that it did run for a few seconds eliminates a lot of possible problems. Has it got good earth connections from the battery to the body as well as the engine?

 

[cool72]

Worked 3 hours on starting the engine. Had it started twice. Second time it ran until we shut it off to add more trans fluid and connect timming light. Could not get it restarted. Figuring the wiring is ok we checked the voltages. They varried from 11.6 to 6 volts at the pos of the coil. Worked on better grounding for the body and engine. Voltage looked good at the coil. Using a spark detector and got spark at the center of cap and at a the plug. No start

 

[Steve340]

I would also check the float levels in the carburettor and check that out.
Take all the spark plugs out and inspect them. They will tell you a lot about how the engine was running.
Getting a new engine sorted can be a bit tricky.

 

[cool72]

Continuing on, could be a faulty neutral safety switch. Had it started, no problem. Continued to fill trans with engine off. Started backup and shifted in reverse no problem. Shut engine down, added more trans and tried to start. Engine turns over but no start. Is there a simple way to jumper out the safety switch?

 

[Steve340]

It is not the safety switch that would disable the starter motor. The neutral/park switch is not part of the ignition circuit.
I think you have some other problem.

 

[budascuda]

Did you notice if the coil got too hot during startups?
Is the coil new? Could try to check voltage to the coil with the leads removed, if there is a short circuit inside the coil, the voltage reading with the leads still attached would be different.

 

[cool72]

Got the engine to run and it did not sound bad, however the whole time I have been working on the car/Engine I notice a small drip coming from the pass side. It appeared to be coming from one of the head bolts. Figured it did not have thread sealant on it. But as the engine continued to run and warm up, the drip got bigger and it is coming from the head gasket. Yes the hanging was OH and he will stand by his work but that means I have to take the engine out. So I will do the work and enjoy it.

 

[budascuda]

That's the spirit!
Good luck.

 

[cool72]

Removed the headers and realized that all the header bolt holes are connected to the cooling passages. It may be possible that the header bolts were leaking coolant. That would be a break. Some past history, the engine leaked when filled with coolant, just sitting there. I am going to remove the header, plug the coolant holes and see if it leaks. I used High Tack sealant. Anything better?

 

[Chryco Psycho]

You need to use teflon thread sealer on the header bolts or better yet install studs like the factory did .
My bet is the leak is from the exhaust bolts not the head gaskets .

 

[cool72]

I think so too. Removed the header, cleaned the header bolts and applied thread sealant. I have 10 psi on the system and am watching for leaks. I Don't think it is the HG

 

[Chryco Psycho]

Great , saves pulling the engine !!