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Front end e body rebuild

Steering / Suspension

  1. fk5aar

    fk5aar Well-Known Member

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    i have been breaking down my 70 rt k frame and have some questions(my first time btw) so I'm down to the last metal bars that go in the k frame and have little metal(safety pins I guess) on the ends of them. How do I remove those so I can get the nut off and remove it. And will suspension rebuild kits come with those circle rubber grommets or do I need to specify that I needs those as well??? I will include a pic of the little pin that goes through the rod. Now I need recommendations for front end rebuild kits, I'm gonna put a pic of a $490 kit up off eBay and let me know if pst or other company offers a better kit. I think these are polyeurethane.

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  2. fk5aar

    fk5aar Well-Known Member

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    This is the pic of the k frame, i had a closer pic but it said too large To load, when this pic is with the same camera. Anyways it's the rod by my foot in the pic, I have everything else broke down. Thanks

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  3. paharamia

    paharamia Well-Known Member

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    I just soaked the pin with a rust buster, tapped it down with a mechanic's hammer and pulled the pin out with needle nose vice grips.
    Use American made vice grips, the new Chinese made ones flexed too much at the tip.
    Worked, they came out easy. New pins and nuts are available and sometimes come w the rebuild kits.
    The rod is a stabilizer bar that has bushings in the k frame side of the bar. There is an improved version of the bushing that can be purchased from Moog that is one piece.
    I purchased all Moog parts separately from Summit at a good price. I preferred to know what I was buying.
    Check out my resto thread here on FEBO, I posted a list of the Moog front end rebuild part numbers w prices from about a year ago.
    Hope it helps!
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2017
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  4. azmoparboy

    azmoparboy Well-Known Member

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    Hi, you have a B/J body style car. I have attached a pic out of mantance Manuel, hope this helps. Also you should think about what kind of driving you are going to be doing with your car when complete. For sport and track you would want a stiffer suspension, thus harder bushings, for a more street driven car rubber might be your choice. Do some reading on handling and your options, making an informed decision will save $$$$ and time.

    One other item to think about is, these cars were designed around poly glass tires . You will need as much castor as possible in the upper control arms to achieve more caster adjustment. Off set upper control arm bushing will give you that needed adjustment. Do a little reading up on that subject as well to make that decision on your options for the rebuild items
     
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  5. moparlee

    moparlee Well-Known Member

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    The bushings for those stabilizer bars (actually called strut rods) are included in your kit picture. They are the two piece bushings in the bottom row on a each end of the row. I also buy individual Moog parts when I rebuild the suspension rather than buying a kit. Some of those kits have Chinese parts in them and I have never had any problems with Moog parts. Ditto what paharamia said on removing the strut rod pins. They are standard roll pins, 1/8" if I recall right.
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2017
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  6. azmoparboy

    azmoparboy Well-Known Member

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  7. moparleo

    moparleo Well-Known Member

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    You will need some tools to do this. Look up front suspension rebuilding on Youtube. This will answer questions that you don't even know yet. If you are not familiar with alignment angle terms like camber, caster, toe, Thrust angle. It is best to look it up online and get educated before you even buy any parts.
     
  8. Adam

    Adam Well-Known Member

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    I like the polyurethane bushings, rubber doesn't last very long in comparison. Also, I recommend the lower control arm reinforcement plates...they are only about $20. And now is the time to upgrade your torsion bars... There are lots of good threads on this site.
     
  9. paharamia

    paharamia Well-Known Member

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    This is part of what I used as one of my references
    Front end on a Superbird; just about the same as an e body
    Check it out!
    REBUILDING THE SUPERBIRD FRONT S

    Dino2 (1).gif
     
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  10. paharamia

    paharamia Well-Known Member

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    Here is the list of Moog parts that I purchased at Summit last year.
    Again, I wanted Moog parts and to build everything mostly stock.
    I would have done one thing different, and used the off set upper control arm bushing to gain additional caster.
    Also, the use of the lower control arm stiffing plates could help (which I did purchase from Just Suspensions) to help tighten up the LCA.
    It really is contingent on what you want to do with your car.


    Front end parts and prices at this point: Summit 3 day delivery
    Front End Rebuild May 2016
    MOG-K7293 UPPER CONTROL ARM BUMPER EACH $5.97 x 2 $11.94
    MOG-K781 LOWER BALL JOINT $44.97
    MOG-K783 LOWER BALL JOINT $44.97
    MOG-K3180 LOWER CONTROL ARM BUMPER $7.97 x 2 $15.94
    MOG-K5241 SWAY BAR BUSHING KIT $5.97 x 2 $11.94
    MOG-K5255 LINK KIT 4.97 x 2 $9.94
    MOG-K7026 STRUT ROD $43.97 $43.97
    MOG-K791 LOWER CONTROL ARM BUSHING $12.97 x 2 $25.94

    Control Arm Purchase w new bushings and ball joint
    GOODMARK
    GMK2130972621L
    Control Arm
    $ 142.89

    GOODMARK
    GMK2130972621R
    Control Arm
    $ 142.89

    Also picked up a cheap Harbor Freight press to press in the bushings where applicable.

    Dino2 (1).gif
     
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2017
  11. fk5aar

    fk5aar Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys all the info helps, I will do more research and get moog parts. I already have a hellwig sway bar and going to upgrade torsion bars as well,