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HEI on Mopar

ramenth

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You don't need a "special" distributor to change to HEI, just a good electronic Mopar distributor, a module, and an HEI coil. The eBay ad is like a snake oil salesman. Lot's of words, distracting you from some of the reasons to do this (in the minds of a lot of Mopar guys): to eliminate the ballast. Yeah, you can buy the distributor, get the module with it, but then you're left with the ballast inline simply because, if you don't get an HEI coil to go with it, you still need to run the ballast. You'll notice, he's doing a lot of comparisons to points, too.

I will say that I'm not convinced about the HEI conversion, though I know many are. We have a member on here who went that way with his '69 Dart daily driver and he likes it.

Personally, I've always had luck with the Mopar system. I've replaced a few ECU's, yeah, and a few ballasts, but I've replaced more modules on GM's which weren't running right than I ever had ECU's or ballasts. Many Mopar guys cuss the ballast. I know a lot of GM guys who cuss the module.

If you're looking for performance, then you'll have to upgrade the module, too. Most stock ones will fall flat at around 4500 rpm. Stock for stock, the Chrysler system puts out at a higher rev. This set up in the ad offers nothing on converting from the stock Mopar ECU, probably the reason he keeps pushing it over points.

As a matter of fact, and I say this just for comparisons sake, I've researched the best ignition system on my Ford pick up. The upgrade is go with the Chrysler ignition system. Says something about the Chrysler system, in my opinion.

Don't think I'm trying to convince you not to go this route. I'm fair. Here's a good write up over on slant.org for your perusal, though, so that you can do some research on the why's and wherefore's of the swap if you want to go that route.

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15779
 
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Chryco Psycho

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I have to agree , HEI on a Mopar is a step backwards , they do not go past 5000 RPM as stated above , I too generally use the Mopar system
 

Chryco Psycho

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you can always hide the ECU under the battery tray & just extend the wires to reach around
 

btceng

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Never though of that. Seems like a logical idea to me. I already have the orange box and distributor that is only a year old.
 

73 kooda

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While were on the subject of orange box ...(not that kind)...where do you guys set your rev limiter.. I have the 6A and the previous owner set it at 5000. Seems a bit low. It's a 1973 340 with a small cam (unk specs) and the small heads...thanks for your help..I'm also gonna hide my box in the passenger compartment to clean up my firewall..
 

Chryco Psycho

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I would need a lot more info , anything past 6000 with a 340 requires some oiling mods , but the real determining factor is cam specs , more importantly valve springs , if you have , if you get valve float you can drop a valve & the whole engine will be toast.
5000 seems low but it may not go a lot higher based on the cam design you have , you need to go 600 + RPM past peak power so when you shift you are not far below the peak power for the fastest acceleration .
Bottom line is if the valve springs are up to it I would suggest 6000 is about normal for a well built 340
 
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