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Help needed with carb ID and what kit(s) needed to rebuild.

KVB

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Hi all! I'm getting back into working on my car and fixing issues from it sitting for too long. So far I've replaced all of the flexible fuel lines leading to the carb...thank you CA fuel! Since CA fuel destroyed my external fuel lines, I can only imagine what it's done to the internals of my carb. I'm pretty sure my floats are stuck, leaking from the 4 screws you can't get to, spewing from top vent; it's a mess and in desperate need of a rebuild. I'm capable of this project but I lack knowledge of what kit(s) and parts are needed for a complete rebuild.

I have a few questions:

What kits and parts can you recommend and/or are needed for a complete rebuild?

I think the carb is a Holley 4160?, 750cfm, vac secondary, mechanical choke?, and says "3310-10 1494" on the front.

It seems there are so many variations to these 4150/4160, so what kit should I order? Any thoughts or reference would be much appreciated and thanks in advance!

-Kevin



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rklein71

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These two are very similar with the primary difference that the 4150 uses a thick metering block in both the primary and secondary while the 4160 is shorter in length and uses a thin, metering plate on the secondary side.
 

KVB

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These two are very similar with the primary difference that the 4150 uses a thick metering block in both the primary and secondary while the 4160 is shorter in length and uses a thin, metering plate on the secondary side.
I'm figuring this out slowly, and thanks for all responses so far......figured I'd need a 4160 kit. Does the metering "plate" in the secondary bowl need anything special to rebuild?
 

Chryco Psycho

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This kit should wrk great , it has the blue gaskets which are good , you can use steel float valves which the fuel cannot affect , the power valve could be short lived as the rubber diaphragm has to work with the fuel . The metering plate usually has Clutch tip screws , easy enough to buy a clutch driver .
 

rklein71

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I'm figuring this out slowly, and thanks for all responses so far......figured I'd need a 4160 kit. Does the metering "plate" in the secondary bowl need anything special to rebuild?
No, the metering plate just needs to be clean of the old gaskets and passages not clogged. The disadvantage of the metering plate is it does not have removable jets. If you want to make adjustments to the secondary side of the carb, you will need to replace the entire metering plate with one that has the orifice size you want.
 

heminut

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These two are very similar with the primary difference that the 4150 uses a thick metering block in both the primary and secondary while the 4160 is shorter in length and uses a thin, metering plate on the secondary side.
The 4150 carbs are a lot different! They are double pumper carbs, having an accelerator pump for the primaries AND the secondaries. The 4160 series carbs only have the accelerator pumps on the primary side.
 

KVB

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Thanks for the info all.

I'll definitely order the above mentioned kit and the price is right. I was looking at kits that costs anywhere from $50-150. Now I'm thinking this cheaper kit is way to go and has everything that I'll need to replace, without lot's of extra stuff that I won't use.

From what I gather, set the floats half way up the site holes; I'm going to measure the turns on the idle mixture screws before I remove them, then just set back to where they were originally. Probably order the special screw tool, even though it looks like one can likely use a Phillips.

And I missing anything obvious, is it safe to use grease on gaskets as needed to hold in place?
 

Chryco Psycho

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Phillips will not work in a clutch screw
Set the float lower & once it is running it is easy to raise t to the correct level .
No grease on the gaskets
 
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KVB

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So far so good, it’s actually pretty easy to rebuild. I used the kit mentioned above and there are a couple issues with it.

- it didn’t come with the vac sec diaphragm (not sure if it was supposed to)

- the throttle plate gasket is off a a little (not sure it makes a difference)

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Should the gasket match the plate holes/openings perfectly? My gasket is off a little, but the holes are still open.


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It’s not off by much….but it’s off. Whatcha ya all think?

-Kevin
 
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heminut

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Throttle plate gasket looks good, I've never had a problem with them being off a little like that. Some of the lower priced rebuild kits don't come with a vacuum secondary diaphragm, that is always something you want to look out for when you buy a kit for these carbs.
Here's one from Jeg's on their ebay page;
 
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moparmarks

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The 4150 carbs are a lot different! They are double pumper carbs, having an accelerator pump for the primaries AND the secondaries. The 4160 series carbs only have the accelerator pumps on the primary side.
Kind of true. All DP's are 4150's and but not all 4150's are DP's. 4150's have a secondary block and 4160's have a secondary plate according to my Holley manuals. The 3310-1 was a 4150 780cfm rating with a secondary block. The 3310-3 went to a 4160 750 cfm rating and a secondary plate. Both vacuum secondaries.
 
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moparmarks

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Use grease on the older black gaskets if you ever want to "easily" remove them. The newer blue style gaskets, no if they are Holley brand, yes if they are Summit brand.
The 3310 is a real good carb when setup right. I've ran them for decades and am running 3 now.
Did you happen to take a manifold vacuum reading on the car?
 

heminut

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Kind of true. All DP's are 4150's and but not all 4150's are DP's. 4150's have a secondary block and 4160's have a secondary plate according to my Holley manuals.
You are absolutely right! It's been a while since I've fooled around with any Holley carbs!

Sucks getting old, you start forgetting stuff!:oops:
 

KVB

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Use grease on the older black gaskets if you ever want to "easily" remove them. The newer blue style gaskets, no if they are Holley brand, yes if they are Summit brand.
The 3310 is a real good carb when setup right. I've ran them for decades and am running 3 now.
Did you happen to take a manifold vacuum reading on the car?

The kit came blue gaskets for the bowls etc… I coated the blue gaskets with a little wd40 when I assembled; meh, see what happens.

I didn’t take any measurements with vac gauge or RPM before hand. The old power valve was 6.5. (Replaced with 6.5), w/brake boost, vac sec carb, vac advance distro.

It should run/idle I hope 😁…the idle mixture was set at 3/4 turn initially, but I set it to one turn on both sides for initial setup.

Float level is a question mark at this point; I set them lowish for now, just to make sure the car idles/runs...and then figure that out next.

--------

Also agree - the aging process stinks!

-Kevin
 
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