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Hooker headers, insanely hard to install! Help!!

B2G707

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I have a 1970 Challenger with an 360 motor. I purchased the Hooker headers because thats what Summit Racing suggested would be an easy install. This install was anything but easy/simple.

There were numerous issues. From the bolts, hard to bolt on once we got the old headers off. Drive side headers hang very low. Took hours just to line up. Finally when we got the passenger headers on, its pressed up agains the torsion bar and oil filter.

Did anyone else have this problem if you purchaed these headers? And if I return them what headers should I get?

Extremely dissapointed with Hooker Headers!

Any assistance would be truly appreciated. Thank you

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Locomotion

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One can sometimes move or tilt the engine around a bit by loosening/repositioning/retightening or shimming the motor mounts. It sometimes happens even with TTI headers, but obviously some more than others.
 

B2G707

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I've never been a fan of Hooker. You will probably have to get the angled adapter in order for the oil filter to clear. The Summit people should have told you this. You'll also have to split the steering on the driver's side so that it can pass between the tubes, but it sounds like you're done on that side.

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Okay thank you. The driver side theres 2 issues. One, the bolt they provided judt can’t grip the 2nd hole because the way they made the pipe. Two, there is a gap thats impossible to close between headers and exhaust so meaning there will be a leak.

As far as passenger side, I will most likely purchase that oil filter angle kit thank you.
 

quapman

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Did you get Comp or Super-Comp? I hear a lot of horror stories with the lower priced Comps.
 

B2G707

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Does anyone know how to get around this? Last screw on the drivers side to fit.

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rogue

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if you mean actually getting the bolt in straight at tightening it... for me, i've always started that one first... you need the header pulled away from the head a bit and it will go in straight.
 

B2G707

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if you mean actually getting the bolt in straight at tightening it... for me, i've always started that one first... you need the header pulled away from the head a bit and it will go in straight.

So there are pre-existing studs on the heads. Take those out then first. Then, start with that one bolt.
 

AUSTA

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Do they supply the small head bolts with the pipes.
When they make the 5115 they push the pipe through the flange weld all around then face the weld so the engine side sits about a 1/16 out from the flange so the pipe machined surface seals on the gasket rather than the flat flange surface.
 

quapman

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Leave the studs in, but yes, you need to get that one bolt started first.
 

rogue

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the studs seal up water passages so unless you've drained coolant be prepared for a mess... but like quapman said, just leave them in...
 

704406

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It's only the two end studs that are in the water jacket on a small block A engine.
Header bolts are usually 5/16 unc with a 3/8 hex head that will give you more clearance than the 1/2" hex nut going on the factory stud. Header bolts also have a flange attached to spread the tightening load to the header flange.I agree start that bolt first with the header pulled away from the head. I also hate headers as they always leak and are hard to install and create clearance problems. Have you considered stock 340 manifolds?
 

tonysrt

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I had headers on my 440 Cuda and hated them. I put stock exhaust manifold on and was very happy. Put in a Gen 2 Hemi and bought the repro exhaust manifolds and they are now 15 years old. Have a 360 going in a 74 duster and just bought repro 70 exhaust manifolds.You can't beat cast iron for longevity. That's what your Boiler is made out of.
 

Moparz10

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had Headmans on my 360 had battles myself,now i have tt'i due to pitman arm issue,that last bolt i would slide the header with the bolt taped to flange,there is also one other bolt that is a pain,had to grind off the head of a wrench and that helped
 

Chryco Psycho

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I agree with above , return them if you can , there are 3 headers that stay above the steering center link , TTI Dougs & Hooker 5115 all 3 are designed better , you will have the tubes below the steering link crushed flat within a week , why big block headers always stay above the steering while all small block go below has always baffled me .
Money spent now will save you a lot more over time .
 
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