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Kick down question

Juan Veldez

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Kick Down2.jpgKick Down.jpg
The stud does not extend through the kick down bracket. The stud was purchased during a Mopar car show and this knowledgeable dealer said it would fit my application. I have a 340 with a thermoquad and 904 trans. Are there different widths for the bracket and are there different lengths of studs? My car came without an engine, but came with the kickdown lever assembly (less stud) that the previous owner purchased. So, I do not know for sure which one is right for the assembly.
 

Juan Veldez

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Assuming it is an E-body. Colum or console ? ESP not working today...

View attachment 93639
Throttle.jpg

Here is a photo of the throttle. It's a 73 Chally with a slap-stick. I see your diagram in my manual also. But on the preceding page, it shows the 3 section throttle rod. So, I assume (dangerous) I use the 3 section throttle rod diagram. So the question remains, are there different length bell crank studs?
 
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moparleo

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I have both a 73 and 72. They use the one in the diagram that I sent you. I don't recognize the one in your picture.
You would also have to have the third rod and connecting bracket.
Scroll down the second link. It shows different types of linkages. Your part looks like part of the lower linkage.


slap-stick-SHIFTER-linkage.jpg
 

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Juan Veldez

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This is the setup I seem to have. I had it all bolted up, and except for the stud length, it looked and operated correctly.
73 Catalog .jpg
 
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moparleo

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If it is the part numbered 7 in the diagram, you have it assembled improperly. The washer and pin clip go on the outside of the bracket.
Is the length a problem ? It only needs to be long enough to not come loose. The washer and clip on the outside on one end and the nut on the outside on the other end. The excess thread extending from the bolt could be cut off if in the way.
 

Juan Veldez

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If it is the part numbered 7 in the diagram, you have it assembled improperly. The washer and pin clip go on the outside of the bracket.
Is the length a problem ? It only needs to be long enough to not come loose. The washer and clip on the outside on one end and the nut on the outside on the other end. The excess thread extending from the bolt could be cut off if in the way.
Agree, the cotter pin and washer go on the other side of the bracket. But the hexagon bolt head is fixed on the threaded stud. When that head bottoms out on the bracket, the other end of the stud where the washer and cotter pin go does not extend through the bracket. Go back and look at my original photo on the right and you will see my dilemma. The "smooth" portion of the stud is too short. Or my kick down lever assembly is incorrect for my setup/stud.
 

moparleo

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So you are saying that the nut does not unthread from the stud ? What would be the purpose of the threads than ?
The nut just might be very tight on the stud and needs a heavier hand.

The picture only shows that the stud and nut are not painted. It doesn't show that they are one piece.
Does the exposed threaded portion screw into the block or bellhousing ?

Did you gat any contact information from the seller ? If so send him a picture and let him figure it out, since he is very knowledgeable...
 
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Juan Veldez

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So you are saying that the nut does not unthread from the stud ? What would be the purpose of the threads than ?
The nut just might be very tight on the stud and needs a heavier hand.

The picture only shows that the stud and nut are not painted. It doesn't show that they are one piece.
Double nut the threaded part and just try to loosen the nut.
Stud.jpg
Correct, the nut is one with the stud. The threaded portion goes into the trans and acts as the leverage point.
 

Juan Veldez

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Anyone have a photo of this stud used in their car? Mines a small block, 4 brl carb, slap-stick auto application. This stud was purchased from The Mopar Shop.
 

Juan Veldez

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Did you get the linkage pivot pin issue resolved?
No I didn't. I am at a loss as too if the stud or the linkage is correct. The linkage and stud when in place hook up the the carb and trans perfectly. If that stud was about 1/4" to 3/8" longer, I'd be set.
 

basketcase70

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You stated that the linkage worked fine with that linkage pin and the only problem was the pin length was too short to allow the retaining pin and washer on the outside of the bracket to secure it.

Nothing says the retaining pin/washer needs to be at the far end and you should, even if the pin in is case hardened, be able grind a small flat spot on the shaft just inside of the bracket arm adjacent to the integral nut. As there is little to no stress on the shaft from normal operation of the linkage, doing this won’t affect anything. You can then secure the shaft centered in a drill press vise and drill it to accept the retaining pin at the flat spot you have just ground in. Just don’t forget to center punch it to keep the drill from wandering and give yourself enough clearance from the hole you drill to the bracket arm to keep the arm snug to the integral nut with a washer or two. This is not critical, it only needs to be tight enough to keep the pin engaged in both sides of the bracket.

That integral nut is there to allow torquing the shaft to the block or bellhousing boss. If it bottoms in the mounting hole before coming up to the appropriate torque, you can strip threads or crack whatever it goes into. DO NOT reef on it, instead use a flat washer or washer stack to allow it to come up to torque.
 

basketcase70

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It looks from the first pictures you posted for my solution to work. However, if the linkage pivot shaft is too short to engage both sides of the linkage bracket, take a random nut small enough to leave a smooth bore after drilling the threads out and weld it to the inside of the far end of the linkage arm to extend the bearing surface farther down the pivot pin shaft.
 

Juan Veldez

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It looks from the first pictures you posted for my solution to work. However, if the linkage pivot shaft is too short to engage both sides of the linkage bracket, take a random nut small enough to leave a smooth bore after drilling the threads out and weld it to the inside of the far end of the linkage arm to extend the bearing surface farther down the pivot pin shaft.
I agree with your alternate method to stop the bracket from wandering while it pivots on that short stud. The stus is just long enough to engage the outer part of the bracket, so I'll try using the internal stop. If that fails, next option is to cut it at the nut and weld/grind a new longer shaft to it. Thanks for your input.
 
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