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La to Magnum Swap using OBD2 anybody interested?

Ges2343

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Let me start here by saying im not selling anything.
Im not even installing in a e body.
If anyone has any interest in this Im willing to document the process. Im just seeing if there is enough interest to post how to do it. I have read where people have done 95 and below but I think the dl-16 connector(obd2 plug) will be informative in a lot of areas. I have already started my pinouts and have I have about 20 pages of notes that will simplify the work needed to be done. The vehicle will be a 73 dodge d-100 custom. The donor vehicle is a 99 Dodge Dakota 5.2l. Before you say 5.2l why? well im bored. Im a mechanic for a living. I do a little side work. A friend of mine wanted me to put a trans in his truck and couldn't find one. So he bought a wrecked parts truck for 400$ and had it towed to the house. Trans is in and he is happy and gone. He said anything I want off the truck I can have so the Hamster started running on the wheel. The project truck is mine I have owned since I was 18 and parked 10 years ago and ive been meaning to do something with it and it hit me. Lets do a total MPI swap to the 73 truck.

So I have 20 pages of notes. I have the engine wiring harness on my kitchen table. I have figured out the pinouts for connector c105 and c106 and c1, c2 and c3 of the pcm. Btw enigine will run without c3 even plugged in as long as you bypass the asd circuit and power up the fuel pump relay.

I have already proved I can run the vehicle only using the pcm outputs and inputs without using any of the other can bus modules. There will be codes for bus communication modules. Im looking to use the Obd2 to see fuel trims and misfire counts and reliability and improved gas mileage with increase performance. I will share my notes. Most of them came frome Mitchell on demand or Identifix from work. The rest came from me and my voltmeter. Truck is being towed to the house Monday.

Anybody interested?
 

Adam

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of course.

Yes, I would be very interested to read it. I have a regular 360 in a 1948 Power Wagon; I have been thinking of upgrading that after I finish my Challenger.
 

Ges2343

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Alright then I'll start tomorrow. I'll get the motor out. I'm leaving for the beach Monday so if you guys don't see any info for a couple of days you know why. Biggest thing now is getting the truck here to the house. Or I would have already started.
 

Ges2343

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th_B86F5829-ED43-4D2B-B2C3-7EBAD6F0747F_zpsag4atbqc.jpg

Here is the 73 dodge truck. Didn't get it here until about 7pm

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Here is the 99 Dodge Dakota SLT donor truck

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Underhood of the 73

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Underhood of the 99
 

Ges2343

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Ok here we go I had a bit of delay if you zoom into the top left of the air cleaner. That is a pretty nice sized wasp nest which delayed me about an hour after I had to swat them down with a broom. I couldn't find a can of carb cleaner or brake cleaner or they would have been taken care of instantly.

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Motor is out

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If you notice the 2 black brackets on the LA motor have to come off to to be transferred to the magnum. Magnum is a Spool Mount and the old truck is a pad mount so simple unbolt and bolt.

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Here is another magnum I have sitting around so you can see the mounts and that the locations are there.

That's it fellows until I get back from Vacation on Friday. Im going to hit the boneyard when I get back and see if I can locate a Power steering gearbox. Im probably going to a attempt to put the Dakota radiator in if at all possible. old one showing some signs of leakage around the trans cooler line inputs. Im going to attempt to use the Dakota accelerator pedal assembly looks like it will work.
 

Ges2343

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Ok I got home a little early and started getting some more done last night.


I got the motor out of the dakota but before it can go into the hole in the 73 we have to do some simple modifications. First for the crank sensor.
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You will notice the Sensor protrudes into The bell housing. I used a drill and a curt off tool to make the notch in the 727.
th_068DF56B-EDEB-44F6-95A0-CAC3862270F9_zpsz74tgzms.jpg



Next we move to the converter flex plate combo. Remove the flex plate mark it so you know it goes back into the same place it was removed.
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Lay it on the converter one of the holes will be slightly off.
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I used a drill with a unibit to longate are the hole.
th_AAC11F5E-1519-480B-B041-1AE20AED407B_zpsjmiubsb0.jpg
 
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Ges2343

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Now I have the magnum engine is in the 73. I still have to bolt it all up which I should be able to get done tonight.
 
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Ges2343

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Ok engine is in and bolted up.
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So next I stated on the accelerator pedal I cut it out of the fire wall of the Dakota with an air saw.
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I hammed it flat and trimmed it up with some tin snips it will cover the 1.5" hole in the firewall and use all the factory holes only one will need to be drilled in the pedal bracket I just have it sitting in place for now going to need an extra set of hands to hold the bolts from the inside.
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I was going to start on the fuel system. My original idea was to use the whole tank assembly but theres no way to make it fit without some major modification to a crossmember under the bed. So last night I figured out what I was going to do and ordered the parts.
I ordered an electric inline fuel pump from a 89 ford bronco. Same thing as a airtex e2000. pumps out 75-90 psi. So we need to regulate that down to around 50 psi. So next I ordered a fuel filter with built in regulator used on 2004 Chevrolet corvette. which will give us a correct pressure. I also got a fuel one way flow valve or check valve to retain pressure or prevent air lock. Theese are hard to find locally. ebay 5$. You can use a high dollar adjustable fuel pressure regulator for efi typically 100-150$ and you can adjust fuel pressure to where you desire. Im doing this as a cheap and easy efi swap so well keep it simple.

Pump 28$
One way fuel valve 5$
Clear low pressure fuel filter7$ for before the pump a must for a 42 year old tank
corvette fuel filter/regulator 20$ at oreilly auto parts everybody else is about 50$
Total 60$ free shipping or local pick up
Will post pics when pump and valve gets here.

While waiting on parts lets start on wiring
I removed the main harness before removing the engine. This is the one that circles around the intake goes down to the trans and has 2 pcm connectors and with a black plug about 10 inches from the pcm. Has a white plug on the other end that plugs into the Power distribution module.

here is connector C1 and C2 the black plug is C105
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White plug is C106
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C3 is tied into the harness that runs across the front of the truck and to the PDM and into the firewall. I started cutting the loom off of it.
th_C55F3B00-EF0F-4B73-9B7F-16DF1B3FBF91_zpsqaefeq3r.jpg

Here u can see most of the loom is pulled back theres a lot of wires but dont worry you are only going to use about 10 of these.
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Here is the pcm removed from left to right C3,C2,C1
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Thats it for tonight
 
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Ges2343

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Alright so last night I cut the Power Distribution module out and brought it in the house. This doesn't have to be used but I figured it would neaten things up and would be easier than dangling wires with relays on them and fuse holders so here is a pic of the PDM.
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Here my finder is pointing to the main 2 relays needed to run fuel pump and ASD(Auto shut down). The asd relay is more like an efi relay it supplies power to the injectors and sensors. The ground side of both of these is controlled by the PCM on connector #3
th_F7BAAD02-C9DE-42D7-8B1C-E53BDE721425_zpskyq3qqtn.jpg

Since im going to use the PDM I decided to use The 40a fuse for the Ign circuit for power to the cab. Since im keeping the magnum gear reduction starter im going to use the starter relay circuit also. everything else I cut out.
th_D977E051-57E4-42F3-8B87-EBDF72550B88_zpswsayuar4.jpg

Now I removed any unused fuses or relays
th_E00046C2-5A43-4E52-BDF0-2ED048717B37_zpsjrppuspp.jpg

now this part is ready to go into the truck
 

Ges2343

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Here is the harness laid out so you all can see them
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Here is the starter harness
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I picked up some supplies from lowes. there wire loom is pretty cheap like 1.50 a pack a lot cheaper than the auto parts store. heat shring is half the price too.
th_CDB8292E-54B3-4970-9723-1D5852AFFC7E_zpsblu0gjao.jpg

ok first thing I did was put heat shrink on all the wire I cut off.
th_699770E7-52B4-4004-A460-F0C1CF2B6F8E_zps3yr9mbko.jpg

Next I cut the DL-16(OBD port) connector out of the Dakota
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Put into the 73 midways bottom of the dash.
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Mounted the pcm bracket to the wheel well
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Ges2343

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I rigged up a bracket I made out of piece of the knee bolster in the Dakota to mount the PDM to the driverside fender
th_0E1F7759-C838-4359-9FF6-C4B0DA87D1E0_zpsketrlop1.jpg

Here is the 3 wires that have to run to the PDM. 2 come from C3 and are the fuel pump and ASD trigger. the 3rd one comes from c105 and is hooked to a 10 amp fuse in the pdm for heater circuit for O2 sensors.
th_4F82AB5B-F3D2-430A-9BFF-268794A6823F_zpsty2wb8w9.jpg

Here is the other 4 wires out of C3 these are the wires that will go to the DL-16 connector the 2 twisted ones are ccd bus wires theese are the wires that communicate with all the other modules (abs, air bag, body). the other to are the one that send and receive info from the PCM.
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pcm mounted to the Bracket
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everything ran and loomed and tied up.
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Pdm mounted and hooked up. Im going to have to extend the wires to reach the battery. The alternator is hooked to the pdm on one side of a 140a fuse and then charges the battery.
th_A7ADBD8E-0704-4FBE-9DAF-28375A68681C_zpswcdxuz20.jpg
 

Ges2343

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fuel parts came in yesterday here is a pic of most of the stuff. Your going to have to be creative on your own on how you want to do this I went the budget route and will probably upgrade later on to some more rugged line like braded ss and russel fittings. ive got about 35$ in the line and misc flare fittings and youd end up paying more that that for just the ss braded line. ill lay down the basics you can go from there to what your budget allows. Right now Im just trying to see How this will work. Im in this whole project at about 120$ most of this is in fuel supplies.
th_7A04E989-FE06-49C9-806C-ADADE36FA7D5_zpsil413tom.jpg


This is a Dorman part that has a quick connect 3/8 tube I had to pick up I cut it and flared it make a connection to fuel injection hose
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Next I cut one of the Dakotas 5/16 quick connect 90 degree fitting off the donor truck and flared it to mate to 5/16 brake line. I went with metal brake line for the cost and strength factor. Whatever you use make sure it is rated for high pressure fuel injection. Most hose is not. Most 3/8 rubber fuel line is atleast 4$ a foot so keep that in mind I used a piece of brake line. 72'' inch piece is 8$.
th_7E7DB088-A1CB-4322-A16B-1334F1CFED14_zpspw2egrnd.jpg


Here you can see the piece of line I got off the Dakota straitened it out and ran it across the fuel line it has 2 female quick connect ends
th_BC6C286B-F3B9-460F-B8E7-40F044E34E61_zpsb7olidp6.jpg


Next I bent my brake line and plugged the 90 degree elbow in.
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Here you can see the inline filter the check valve and the pump plumbed up
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Heres the filter plumbed up.
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this is a connection im not happy with but forgot to get a 3/8 flared nipple to reduce to 5/16. So I bubbled flared the 5/16 brake line and put a clamp on it. I will fix this soon because its subject to leak and I don't trust it.
th_C8600272-8553-44E7-B689-8FC50673EB9F_zpslcnnpzzu.jpg


I got that done yesterday. I had to fix a lot of wiring inside the vehicle from the previous owners wiring. Wire nuts and electrical tape are not repairs. just bandaids that cause fires. both the power wires on the inside of the bulkhead were burnt and wired to 6 16gauge wires wire nutted and electrical taped the pinched in between the firewall and the bulkhead connector. SO I got that fixed. I got my PDM wired up to the trucks wiring 2 wires(ign power and Start power).

I still have to get some gas and run a wire from my PDM down to the fuel pump. I also have to put the radiator in and plumb the trans cooler lines I cut them out because they leaked.

Before I came in to give you guys and update I gave it a shot of TB cleaner in the intake turned the key and it was 5 seconds of satisfaction. It fired right up.

So tomorrow ill get the fuel pump wired up when I get home from work. try to get the radiator in. Maybe ill get you guys a video of this thing running and idleing and some video of some PIDS on the scan tool by sunday night. Im still going to have to put an oxygen sensor in. My buddy is supposed to be getting me they y pipe that was on his truck that the first shop cut off it has the o2 still in it. I had to use the one off the donor on his truck.
 

Ges2343

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OK as promised here is the video
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Fuel pressure stayed at around 59PSI. Until the O2 sensor is installed I believe the slightly higher fuel pressure with cause a rich condition. I let the truck run for about 20 minutes and took this video. Most of the video shows pids on the scan tool along with all the codes there is. all of the codes are related to things I didn't plug in. Most are trans codes I guess if you get a manual trans model you could cut the list in half.

I want to get an o2 sensor installed before I take it for a drive so the pcm is metering the fuel. until I get that I cant really say this will 100% work until I can drive it down the road. but all looks well so far. but until it sees closed loop its just running on factory fuel tables engineered off of 50 psi. Not sure how much 8-9 psi makes a difference but im willing to bet its pig rich.
 

Ges2343

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A little quick update.

I got the y pipe with the o2 sensor today and installed it.
Fixed a couple issues it had from sitting and a leaky transpan.

Took it around the yard it did fine. Went out on the road it stated bucking badly. That inline pump don't like to suck and I believe the fuel is being aerated in the clear filter because I can see it happening. So I ordered a low pressure high volume pump to feed the high pressure pump.

Runs great at idle but bucks and surges under load typical symptoms of fuel starvation. So pump is ordered be here in 3 days I'll get se pictures and hopefully a good news update.
 

Ges2343

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Any updates please.

I added a second low pressure high volume pump and stabled the fuel pressure. Still haven't actually took it down the road because I started to transition to a non step side bed with fast tank outside of the cab. Second my wife gave birth 2 our second child which has limited my me time. Also I have started getting the body prepped for paint. And 3 it has turned cold. If you need any help or have any?s I'll do my best to help out.
 

Randy

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I'm taking a 73 Power Wagon and using the harnesses, engine, and transmission from a 96 to convert it to automatic fuel injection. If you have any notes or information I could get from you that would be great.
 
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