no spark 340 cuda

[bigsnaves]

hello all, I am new to this site,i have a 340 cuda that was running fine and just wouldnt start the next day. i replaced the coil and ballast resistor, should i try a new distributor and possibly upgrade to electronic ignition? also have numerous dash gauge issues and the tail lights wont work but the break lights do and so do the turn signals. only one road lamp works, i also might have a ground in the front turn signal.

seattle cuda guy

please help

1970 340 727 BS23 cuda sassy grass green

 

[704406]

Make sure the points are opening, just pop the cap, and crank the engine, points should open.
Could be the points or condenser is the issue. When was the last tune up?
Check for voltage at the positive side of the coil with key on.
Up grading to electronic ignition is a great idea, but solve the no start issue first! Less headaches later on.
Tail light issues could be ground, fuses, headlight switch, wiring etc.
Brake lights working would usually mean the ground is ok, but check it anyway.

 

[Adam]

One thing at a time... yes you should upgrade to electronic ignition at some point, but you should find / fix the issue you are having. I would start with the ignition circuit.

Are you getting power into the ballast?
Are you getting power out of the ballast to the coil?

Check each wire back to the bulkhead connector.
Inspect the bulkhead connector for damage, corrosion, and melting.

Does it crank? Check the Starter relay
No crank, check the neutral safety switch, run the shifter into gear and back into park.

I would bet you have heat, or mouse damage... look for obvious damage.

 

[moparker]

Check the bulk head and make sure it hasnt worked loose. The dash light issue could be your dimmer switch. If it is corroded it causes all kinds of problems. Good luck.

 

[aussiemark]

One thing at a time... yes you should upgrade to electronic ignition at some point, but you should find / fix the issue you are having. I would start with the ignition circuit.

Are you getting power into the ballast?
Are you getting power out of the ballast to the coil?

Check each wire back to the bulkhead connector.
Inspect the bulkhead connector for damage, corrosion, and melting.

Does it crank? Check the Starter relay
No crank, check the neutral safety switch, run the shifter into gear and back into park.

I would bet you have heat, or mouse damage... look for obvious damage.

This is good advise, get hold of the wiring diagram and go through each faulty circuit one at a time. Simplify the process by treating each circuit individually separate it (in your mind) from the system and follow it from one end to the other looking and testing for faults.

 

[halifaxhop]

One thing at a time... yes you should upgrade to electronic ignition at some point, but you should find / fix the issue you are having. I would start with the ignition circuit.

Are you getting power into the ballast?
Are you getting power out of the ballast to the coil?

Check each wire back to the bulkhead connector.
Inspect the bulkhead connector for damage, corrosion, and melting.

Does it crank? Check the Starter relay
No crank, check the neutral safety switch, run the shifter into gear and back into park.

I would bet you have heat, or mouse damage... look for obvious damage.

Also check the condenser the newer ones have a pretty high short out rate.

 

[Don Gould]

You need to address one thing at a time.... So lets start by getting it running...
When you say won't start? Does it turn over?
Have you checked voltage at the + coil with key in run position?
Have you checked continuity between both sides of the ballast resistor?
Is it a 4 pin or 2 pin ballast?
Do you have voltage at the + side of the coil when cranking the engine?
Have you done a spark test?
Have you checked to see if there's any fuel in the carburetor? Tank?

Yes you need to upgrade the ignition, we have 2 only good cast type SB distributors left. Spectra purchased the factory we were getting them from and the product has been cheapened up so badly they are not usable. There is no source of any quality left and we have been forced to change our distributors to a billet type that has extremely high quality control and are the best built. But that comes at a cost, you may want to call about one of these last 2 cast type distributors... when they're gone they're gone.

 

[hotrodsouth]

I had a similar problem with my 71 Challenger 340, although it factory electronic ignition. Turned out to be bad ground on ignition module to firewall. I scratched the paint off where the screw attached the module to the firewall and it fired right up. Like the other posts, i would check ignition wiring and make sure the ground is good before doing anything else.

hello all, I am new to this site,i have a 340 cuda that was running fine and just wouldnt start the next day. i replaced the coil and ballast resistor, should i try a new distributor and possibly upgrade to electronic ignition? also have numerous dash gauge issues and the tail lights wont work but the break lights do and so do the turn signals. only one road lamp works, i also might have a ground in the front turn signal.

seattle cuda guy

please help

1970 340 727 BS23 cuda sassy grass green

I had

 

[ctaarman]

My 70 AAR cuda died on me inexplicably last year. Checked voltage at main fuse -fine. Checked voltage at alternator, low but there.

It turned out to be carbon on the contacts inside the bulkhead connector located on the firewall. You have to unplug it and check every pin carefully. All the current for the entire car goes trough this connector and through the ammeter on the dash. Good to clean it now in any case, then put a small amount of conductive grease on every male pin before reconnecting. This condition is exacerbated if the alternator has been uograded to put put more than the originals do.

 

[napaguy]

hello all, I am new to this site,i have a 340 cuda that was running fine and just wouldnt start the next day. i replaced the coil and ballast resistor, should i try a new distributor and possibly upgrade to electronic ignition? also have numerous dash gauge issues and the tail lights wont work but the break lights do and so do the turn signals. only one road lamp works, i also might have a ground in the front turn signal.

seattle cuda guy

please help

1970 340 727 BS23 cuda sassy grass green

does motor turn over? do you have power for anything? if not check the red wire on steering column connector, it powers everything. had this happen to my challenger. wire was burnt at connector. cut both sides and plug them together no more problem. also check battery wire to starter solenoid.

 

[sub340]

hello all, I am new to this site,i have a 340 cuda that was running fine and just wouldnt start the next day. i replaced the coil and ballast resistor, should i try a new distributor and possibly upgrade to electronic ignition? also have numerous dash gauge issues and the tail lights wont work but the break lights do and so do the turn signals. only one road lamp works, i also might have a ground in the front turn signal.

seattle cuda guy

please help

1970 340 727 BS23 cuda sassy grass green

hello all, I am new to this site,i have a 340 cuda that was running fine and just wouldnt start the next day. i replaced the coil and ballast resistor, should i try a new distributor and possibly upgrade to electronic ignition? also have numerous dash gauge issues and the tail lights wont work but the break lights do and so do the turn signals. only one road lamp works, i also might have a ground in the front turn signal.

seattle cuda guy

please help

1970 340 727 BS23 cuda sassy grass green

had a 340 dart....same symptoms...check grounds...?...good luck neighbor!!!!I'm over here by Spokane

 

[gary]

The tail lights feed though the turn signal switch. The turn signals will still work. If the ground is good and can't find the problem. Try plugging in a different turn signal switch.

 

[johnnycsp]

my sassy grass 70 dodge
there are at least 6 checks you have to make when having no spark. the least of which is very funny ...it happended to me: i forgot to put in the rotor-button under the rotor cap. 1 check rotor cap and button 2 check plug and wires to and from electronic disributor and harness 3 check wire to coil. ...i had the wires reversed once. 4 make sure main dist to coil feed is pressed in all the way. 5. weak battery 6. check all wires to ballast resistor and test ballast resistor. try and old one or borrow one...i bought a new one from autozone was crap...bought one from NAPA - booyah - good. really there many more things but i cant think of right now. dont worry though you'le get it.

 

[Cudafor36]

Mine was the wire off the steering column to bulk head connector. Was burnt. Ten years ago it was the black wire. Check that. Especially if oh run a wire from the battery to the positive on the coil and it runs. That is a clear indicator that the wire short is your issue. Either on the connector or a bad ignition switch. Probably the wire.