Lee W.
Active Member
photo of oil on trans & pressureplate
oil in clutch area
- Thread starter Lee W.
- Start date
How’d the rear main seal look?
Lee W.
Active Member
very light oil at where the main meets the oil pan. most or the oil splatter on the bell housing is on the clutch side of the flywheel . is it possible for oil to leak out the nose of the tranny behind the splines?
Lee W.
Active Member
the oil on the bell housing is thick like greese
Lee W.
Active Member
grease
Lee W.
Active Member
is that something I could do or should take to trans shop ?
As you know, time for a pressure plate, disc, t/o bearing etc, I would have the flywheel machined as it appears to have hot spots. If you see any hairline cracks, then replace the flywheel. The rear main is easily accessible while everything is apart. Just good insurance
You can do it. It’s in the back of the sleeve.
Check the end play of the input bearing. It it’s extreme, it could be time for tranny work. Did you hear any excessive bearing noise while driving?
I would suggest downloading the factory repair manual. It’s free at mymopar.com
Good to have if you don’t have a hard copy on hand.
Lee W.
Active Member
I already have new ACT clutch & pressure plate also the flywheel was heat cracked so I bought a new one. Just did not want to put all that in and get oil on them. you suggested rear main seal. do i have to pull the pan to get to it?
Lee W.
Active Member
Also did not hear any bearing noise and shifts ok
Lee W.
Active Member
downloading repair manual now THANKS FOR YOUR HELP
Chryco Psycho
Well-Known Member
Well I have often seen oil leak down from the oil line or pressure sender at the rear of the block so check there
To have oil leaking from the rear main seal it is virtually impossible to get to the other side of the flywheel & contaminate the clutch & oil coming out of the trans would get onto the clutch but the trans would be low on oil very quickly .
I am not sure what you have for an engine in front of the trans but that diaphragm clutch is not doing its job at all , it has been slipping a lot to have heat spots everywhere like that !
Really you need a new unit & might be able to save the flywheel depending on crack depth etc . I have had far better success with 3 finger clutches , I usually buy from McLeod as this is the factory style & the pressure can be controlled better using various amounts & pressure coil springs , they even have street twins if you have a 512 stroker with massive tq output for example .
To have oil leaking from the rear main seal it is virtually impossible to get to the other side of the flywheel & contaminate the clutch & oil coming out of the trans would get onto the clutch but the trans would be low on oil very quickly .
I am not sure what you have for an engine in front of the trans but that diaphragm clutch is not doing its job at all , it has been slipping a lot to have heat spots everywhere like that !
Really you need a new unit & might be able to save the flywheel depending on crack depth etc . I have had far better success with 3 finger clutches , I usually buy from McLeod as this is the factory style & the pressure can be controlled better using various amounts & pressure coil springs , they even have street twins if you have a 512 stroker with massive tq output for example .
Chryco Psycho
Well-Known Member
Do the front trans seal yourself , it is easy to change just remove the 4 bolts & slide the retainer off & change the seal , make sure you use a sealant on the bolts when you put them back in so no oil seeps through the treads .
Lee W.
Active Member
thanks will do
Lee W.
Active Member
I finally got around to changing the clutch, pressure plate & fly wheel. Clutch & pressure is from ACT. Engine is a 440. my new problem now is when I slip the clutch to take off slowly it is real grabby & chatters until full out. is there a brake in procedure to follow or am I in Trouble again?
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