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Overheating

money pit

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The car goes from 180 to 200 degrees. This has always been the case since I finished the car. I have a 70 Barracuda that has AC, Auto Trans. 360 Engine. The car originally had a 22" radiator (slant six). I installed a 26" radiator, a thermal clutch, and factory style shroud, and a repop 6 blade fan. The timing is set at 5 BTDC. I can drive the car for about 20 min (combo freeway/street) in 75 degree weather, without the AC on. The temp gauge (autometer) starts at 180 and goes up to 200. I checked the engine temp with an infrared laser thermometer. The lower radiator hose reads 180, the top hose 200. The thermostat housing is 200 and the area near the temp sensor is 200. I didn't open up the opening to the radiator support when I installed the larger radiator. Does a 7 blade fan really move more air? The radiator is fairly new and has always had antifreeze mix in it. Any recommendations?
 

Juan Veldez

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What degree thermostat you using? Does it jump to 200 while moving or when stopped? Don't use more than 50% anti-freeze. Try adding Water Wetter. Doesn't sound like the radiator, shroud or fan are the problem.
 

money pit

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What degree thermostat you using? Does it jump to 200 while moving or when stopped? Don't use more than 50% anti-freeze. Try adding Water Wetter. Doesn't sound like the radiator, shroud or fan are the problem.
The thermostat is a 180. I tested the temp driving, let it cool off, then I let the engine idle. During idle it will also go to 200.
 

money pit

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Still not overheating. With a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water, and a good 16 lb. cap, the boiling point is around 270 °.
Got it. My temp gauge only goes to 250. When should I consider a over heating condition?
 

moparleo

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OK. Any kind of fan is only effective up to about 45 mph. After that, there is more air being pushed through the radiator than a fan can do.
If the temp is rising when driving over that speed, there is a different issue.
Other factors could be timing, a/f ratio, vacuum leaks, oil pressure,
 

money pit

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OK. Any kind of fan is only effective up to about 45 mph. After that, there is more air being pushed through the radiator than a fan can do.
If the temp is rising when driving over that speed, there is a different issue.
Other factors could be timing, a/f ratio, vacuum leaks, oil pressure,
Thanks for the info. I don't have the stock gauges. Do you know what the approximate temp is when the indicator is in the middle of the stock gauge? Just curious. Thanks again.
 

moparleo

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Nope. It would need to be calibrated against another gauge. Like a fuel gauge. Many times the other old gauges don't read accurately either. Get a direct read mechanical gauge. The oil pressure, water temp gauge accuracy is critical to cachinng a potential problem before it s too late. They called the old oil/water temp lights on the earlier cars "Idiot lights" for a reason.
The light comes on after it is too late.
That is one of the first things we did in the old days. A set of mechanical Stewart Warner or similar gauges on a pod under the dash.
 

money pit

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Nope. It would need to be calibrated against another gauge. Like a fuel gauge. Many times the other old gauges don't read accurately either. Get a direct read mechanical gauge. The oil pressure, water temp gauge accuracy is critical to cachinng a potential problem before it s too late. They called the old oil/water temp lights on the earlier cars "Idiot lights" for a reason.
The light comes on after it is too late.
That is one of the first things we did in the old days. A set of mechanical Stewart Warner or similar gauges on a pod under the dash.
I checked my Autometer water temp gauge against an infrared laser thermometer, and a regular automotive thermometer. The gauge is right on. I was just wondering if the original water temp gauge was at the middle position, what would be the approx. temp. Would the middle position be approximately 210 degrees as I see on my gauge? I guess I'm worrying about nothing. Thanks.
 

money pit

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Bump the timing up it will run better , cooler & more efficiently .
I adjusted the timing as you recommended. Still running at 210. It's probably because it's 91 degrees outside. I'm going to look at the air/fuel. I think it's running really lean. It has an Edelbrock carb. I don't know if I can rejet it.
 

Chryco Psycho

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Eddy are tough to make minor adjustments to & usually are too lean , not the best carb IMO
 

Chryco Psycho

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I generally use Proform with adjustable air bleeds & 2x the CI for size .
With Eddy you have to change both the metering rods & the jets to make small jetting changes & there is no air bleed adjustment if the cam is not stock in your engine .
 
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Old Mopar

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The car goes from 180 to 200 degrees. This has always been the case since I finished the car. I have a 70 Barracuda that has AC, Auto Trans. 360 Engine. The car originally had a 22" radiator (slant six). I installed a 26" radiator, a thermal clutch, and factory style shroud, and a repop 6 blade fan. The timing is set at 5 BTDC. I can drive the car for about 20 min (combo freeway/street) in 75 degree weather, without the AC on. The temp gauge (autometer) starts at 180 and goes up to 200. I checked the engine temp with an infrared laser thermometer. The lower radiator hose reads 180, the top hose 200. The thermostat housing is 200 and the area near the temp sensor is 200. I didn't open up the opening to the radiator support when I installed the larger radiator. Does a 7 blade fan really move more air? The radiator is fairly new and has always had antifreeze mix in it. Any recommendations?
Hello
the year is 2020, the gas you buy today requires a 195 degree thermostat or it does not burn efficiently. 210 is not hot! 195-210 is normal 240 is hot.
The engine tune up is way off, initial timing needs to be 12-15 degrees btdc to start
 
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