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Rearend Help

wedg2go

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I have a limited slip eight and three-quarter inch rear end on my Challenger. It has 10 bolts the hold the center chunk to the rear end housing. Is there a torque sequence and can someone tell me what the foot pounds are on each of those bolts?

Thanks in advance!
 

DrEamer

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Most manuals spec 45 foot pounds (Link below) That said, a lot of people only do 35 stating the it is only a 3/8 inch bolt, which should not be tightened more then 35. I would start at 35, on check the tightness after running it for awhile. As for the pattern, I could not find anything, but would use a cross pattern like tightening lug nuts. So, start at the 12 o'clock, go to 6 o o'clock, 9 o'clock, 3 o'clock. Then start over at 1 o'clock maintain as close to that pattern as you can. Also might want to torque in two or three steps. It may be overkill, but can't hurt to do it that way either.

Chrysler Differential Info
 

DetMatt1

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They are a fine thread though so that might be where you can get the extra 10 ft lbs from.
 

wedg2go

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DrEamer -

45 ft. lbs? Got it! I'll start at 35 ft. lbs. and see if it "clicks." If it turns a little, I'll leave it for the time being. If not? 40? Hmmm?

Funny? Every single one of my resources failed me (or I just didn't see it). I was movin' and jukin', yesterday, with the rock tunes on and turnin' wrenches like no tomorrow. Little time and no desire to research cyberspace. FEBO #1!

Thank you!
 
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volunteer

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Most of us who have done a hundred or so of these do the 'torqueing' by 'feel'. More important is what you (choose to) use to 'seal' the third-member to the housing. Suggest to NOT use only RTV on the mating surfaces. You will not enjoy removing unit and prepping all over again - after pesky leak (inevitably) happens.
 

wedg2go

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I turned a wrench on it yesterday and stopped at 40 ft lbs. Yeah, all of them turned about 1/2 a turn. No leaks, but I believe in preventative maintenance. Especially, after losing the frame bolt on a motor mount in a Dakota. Not cool!
 
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