Restore Suspension

[Dan Knut]

I have a mostly original 1970 Challenger RT with a 383. Front and rear suspension is getting tired and I am looking to rebuild it to handle and steer the way it did when new. Not expecting it to drive like modern car. Understably new torsion bars and rear springs will be replaced but what is recommended for the rest. Car has about 80,000 miles on it and never been apart. Thank you in advance. Dan.

 

[340challconvert]

Start with these:

REBUILDING THE SUPERBIRD FRONT S

Mopar Front Suspension Rehab: Get Handling With Stock Looks! - Hot Rod Network
I used all Moog parts for my rebuild

and Welcome to FEBO from New Jersey

 

[budascuda]

Moog is also a DEFENSE contractor, their products are well made, well tested.

 

[aussiemark]

The torsion bars and springs may be ok I would replace all the bushes, joints and shock absorber first and see what it's like can always do the springs and bars latter if need be.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

Mopars had a very well designed suspension for the day & can handle very well without redesign
I would suggest replacing all the bushings & components , Moog makes good stuff , You can source them from Rock Auto , you can use rubber or poly bushings , Energy suspension makes good stuff if you decide to go to Poly .
You can use the Moog offset upper control arm bushing which when installed correctly can increase the castor adjustment without buying new upper control arms
I would use far stiffer T bars over 1" in diamter as they are under sprung compared to modern cars , rear springs can be sourced through Espo or you can go to lighter composite leafs .
Using a good shock is a must , I would recommend double adjustable .
Hotkiss has far larger diameter sway bars that are hollow as well so they are very light but dramatically better roll stiffness .

 

[Dan Knut]

Thank you to all. It appears Moog is still well respected and hopefully made in the United States.

 

[340challconvert]

Here is the list of some of the MOOG parts I purchased to rebuild my front end. Prices are from 2016: I bought from Summit w 3 day delivery:
Front End Rebuild May 2016
MOG-K7293 UPPER CONTROL ARM BUMPER EACH $5.97 x 2 $11.94
MOG-K781 LOWER BALL JOINT $44.97
MOG-K783 LOWER BALL JOINT $44.97
MOG-K3180 LOWER CONTROL ARM BUMPER $7.97 x 2 $15.94
MOG-K5241 SWAY BAR BUSHING KIT $5.97 x 2 $11.94
MOG-K5255 LINK KIT 4.97 x 2 $9.94
MOG-K7026 STRUT ROD $43.97 $43.97
MOG-K791 LOWER CONTROL ARM BUSHING $12.97 x 2 $25.94

I went w new upper control arms; my originals looked pretty fatigued and did not have to deal w installing the ball joints.
Control Arm Purchase w new bushings and ball joint
GOODMARK GMK2130972621L
Control Arm $ 142.89
GOODMARK GMK2130972621R
Control Arm $ 142.89
UCA's looked very close to stock and I kept the originals.

 

[Litchkar]

Look at PST. They are a sponsor and give members a discount. I upgraded to 1.03 torsion bars on my E body. Recommend reinforcing the lower control arms with their weld on plates to reduce flexing. I also used Rock Auto for Moog bushings. Good luck and enjoy your ride.

 

[340challconvert]

I bought the UCA's from Rock Auto
They are now $97. Goodmark units.
$45. Cheaper then what I paid 2 years ago.
As Litchar mentioned, I also picked the LCA stiffening plates from PST.
Will make a difference in tightening up the handling.

 

[340challconvert]

Stiffening plate on LCA

 

[70Barracuda]

Your gonna want tubular UCA's Get a modern alignment

 

[Chryco Psycho]

Welds can weaker than stamped parts , the upper control arms are 1 piece stampings , not saying you should not upgrade to modern UCAs but be careful what you buy.

 

[340challconvert]

The advantage of the adjustable UCA's; the ability to better adjust camber and a weight savings.
There are also offset UCA bushing available for the standard UCA's that also allow better camber adjustments.
The tubular arms are also about 3x the price of a factory style unit.
Cost was a consideration for me in going with the factory style replacement units
Just some thoughts on this.

 

[aussiemark]

Unless you are building a track only race car I don't know why you would bother with different control arms. If you can set the wheel alignment to fall within the service limits the car will handle fine and you will get even tyre wear.

 

[340challconvert]

I would also personally stick with stock UCA's
Good luck with what you decide to do!

 

[aussiemark]

Your gonna want tubular UCA's Get a modern alignment

How does a modern alignment differ from the original specification and what are the benefits?

 

[70Barracuda]

Drive better, handle better. Firmfeel.com T bars too. If money is an issue I get that.
After talking to guys with upgraded stuff it was a no brainer.

 

[Adam]

When you weld stiffening plates on the lower control arms, make sure you are not pinching the two sides together too much, causing the adjuster to bind. There is room to tighten up a little, but don’t over do it. My two cents...

 

[Chryco Psycho]

the original suspension was designed with bias ply tires in mind around 72 radial tires were used on the assy lines & are a far better tire design , this would seem insignificant but alignment setting need to be very different with radial tires , the negative camber can be increased slightly without tire wear & you can increase the caster significantly , most stock suspensions run 2.5* caster max , with the offset bushings you should be able to get to 4* , setting it as high as 5* is not uncommon , this helps the steering return to center but also increases the tendancy for the car to go straight . The toe in basically remains the same either way