Rocker Arm Wear

[R/T 71]

The 340 is about to go back together, and in the cleaning/inspection process it appears there is significant wear on the stamped steel rocker arms. Is this a normal thing with this type of rocker? They are pretty wobbly on the shaft, and I would think that would translate into some funky stuff going on in the valve train. Any thoughts or suggestions will be appreciated.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

Where is the wear ?
The side holes in the arms are always loose from new , this is normal with pressure from below on both ends of the rocker they stay tight to the bottom of the shafts .
If you have significant wear on the tip where it rides on the top of the valve then they should be replaced , I have seen where a higher lift cam is installed using old arms & it makes a clicking sound as it travels beyond the old where over the ridge at the end of the travel .

 

[moparleo]

Tell us more about your build, like what parts have you replaced and a few pictures would be gold.

 

[budascuda]

For the cost, I would go new.
with a "340" in your car, I don't think you are planing to take it easy!
Good luck tho.

 

[R/T 71]

I was concerned about the side hole wear. Thanks for easing my mind on that. The tips and push rod sockets are ok. They are shiny but not overly worn. A few years ago friends and I put a 440 together for an A body Duster to go racing. We had a couple of instances where a push rod pierced the rocker arm, so I am aware of that. I'll try to upload a few progress pictures if i can get them transferred from phone to desktop. Thanks again.

 

[moparleo]

And just a little note, the 340 rocker arms are slightly different from 318's. They have more clearance for the valve springs.

 

[Rons340]

It sounds to me like they are normal. All Mopar LA rocker arms are floppy on the shaft but the wear in the shaft area is always going to be on the bottom.
I am currently building a 340 with a flat tappet high lift cam and am considering using the Proform Extruded Aluminum Shaft Mount Roller Rocker Arms, part number 440-869. They aren't as expensive as the Harland Sharp set-up but appear to be well designed and are approved by Mopar.
Aluminum or Stainless roller rockers are going to give you a more precise valve train geometry and less wear on the entire valve train in the long run.

 

[MoparCarGuy]

Link to rocker arm articles by Hughes Engines.
Article #3 Link and the #7 Rocker Arm Geometry Link provide a lot of details.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

My preference is to not use alum rockers on street builds , I far prefer any bushed rocker over a needle brg .
the Stainless bushed rockers I what I lean to for street use for long term durability .
I have seen rocker shafts run long term with needle brgs in them & the contact area on the shaft is so small it will wear grooves into the shaft as the rollers do not travel very far .

 

[mowerman36]

In need of a #8 cylinder intake rocker Got lost in move

 

[moparleo]

Post number 10, post your request in the parts wanted section.

 

[R/T 71]

I decided to use new stamped steel rockers just to be sure. The entire engine is new, so why scimp there. The new rockers are quite a bit tighter on the shaft. Too bad the adjustable rockers are so spendy.

 

[DTCMMLF]

In need of a #8 cylinder intake rocker Got lost in move

SB or BB. I got a ton of them. Mailing address and I will shoot you one or two!

 

[mowerman36]

I probably wasn't clear on my first post It is a 340 ta #8 intake rocker was lost
Thanks
Mike

 

[Chryco Psycho]

PRW has great stainless steel bushed rockers at reasonable prices FYI .