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Suspension Upgrades

CUDA72340

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I have a 1972 Cuda 340 Factory 4 speed. Engine is almost finished and I'm looking for some recommendations on what I should due to the front and rear suspension. Not looking for it to handle like a new car just want it to drive nice. I don't have an unlimited budget but would like to do it right while the car is apart.

Motor will have around 400 hp if that matters. Thanks for the help!
 

340challconvert

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Great thing about e body front ends and braking systems
You have a lot of options depending on what you want to do and want to spend.

I would first rebuild the front end; ball joints, control arm bushings, tie rods etc.
I used all stock Moog parts which are reasonably priced on my 70 Challenger w factory disc. (your car will already have the disc brakes up front)
Looking at upgrading the brakes; I used the original sized rotors with the smaller inner bearing that was stock on my 70 Challenger (larger bearing started in 1973)
You can upgrade the braking by going to 1973 ebody/body rotors with the larger inner bearing and or upgrade to 1973 specs with the 73 spindle.
I purchased new upper control arms with the ball joint installed that look totally stock (again depending on funds-you could go tubular which reduces weight and gives you better camber adjustments)
Some people go to the 1976 A body disc brake set up because of the larger rotors and caliper pistons (better stopping power)
On the steering end, I believe you can use C body tie rods ends and sleeves if you want a little beefier steering components
You could have your steering box rebuilt to a higher level; Firm Feel has several levels depending on how tight you want to go or again other options are available for steering chucks aftermarket (Borgeson)
Front sway bars are available with a larger size diameter, or just consider adding a rear sway bar (factory and aftermarket units available)
You can go mild to wild on front end rebuilds; your choice

Rick Ehrenberg did a number of great articles on rebuilding and improving Mopar front ends.

Read these articles for for more detailed information:

DISC-O-TECH: Stop on a dime from Mopar Action and Rick Ehrenberg

How to swap in a police firm-feel chuck and get rid of steering slop.


There are a lot of options.
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340challconvert

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Some of the Front end parts and prices I bought from Summit 3 day delivery
Front End Rebuild Prices from May 2016

MOG-K7293 UPPER CONTROL ARM BUMPER EACH $5.97 x 2 $11.94
MOG-K781 LOWER BALL JOINT $44.97
MOG-K783 LOWER BALL JOINT $44.97
MOG-K3180 LOWER CONTROL ARM BUMPER $7.97 x 2 $15.94
MOG-K5241 SWAY BAR BUSHING KIT $5.97 x 2 $11.94
MOG-K5255 LINK KIT 4.97 x 2 $9.94
MOG-K7026 STRUT ROD $43.97 $43.97
MOG-K791 LOWER CONTROL ARM BUSHING $12.97 x 2 $25.94

Control Arm Purchase w new bushings and ball joint
GOODMARK
GMK2130972621L
Control Arm
$ 142.89

GOODMARK
GMK2130972621R
Control Arm
$ 142.89
 
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Adam

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Go with heavier/ thicker torsion bars around one inch thick. Originally these cars had bias ply tires and they were the weak point in handling; now modern radials will reveal any suspension deficiencies.

I would also recommend lower control arm stiffening plates, they are about $20 from Mancini..

Also, Mopar Action did a great article “Pump it Down” a few years ago (easy to find on the web) Basically, you take off the power steering line, pop out the little valve, add a washer to it and reinstall. This reduces the line pressure and greatly improves the feel.

I have done all these mods, with urethane bushings, and my 71 feels great!
 
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Chryco Psycho

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I agree
Mopars had a very good design overall for the day
Upgrading the T bars & springs is a must , you can even go to composite rear leafs , use double adjustable shocks & much larger T bars , get some hollow F&R sway bars ,good wheels & tires & you can corner over 1 g
More Caster adjustment help using offset bushing or adjustable upper control arms
Hotchkiss has a very well rounded pkg at reasonable cost
Firm feel has upgraded steering boxes or you can go to the Borgeson conversion using a modified jeep box
 

JohnP

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Wheel alignment has finally been done. The chap said that it was not easy with the car been low on the fenders. He thinks I should change the shocks back and front to lift about 1 inch. I have air shocks on the back which I am going to change anyway. Strange set up as there is one inlet to the 2 shocks which does not allow equal pressure to each side. If I turn full lock the front tire does touch the fender. I have the Alterktion front suspension with coil overs. I can turn up the coil overs but it is a hard ride. I just hope there was no damage to the one shock when the previous owner had the front end accident.

Any input or suggestions on this or the shocks from anyone I would be grateful.
 

Adam

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Stay away from air shocks on the back or you run the risk of cracking the upper cross member. The metal is surprisingly thin and not designed to support the weight of the car.
 

Cudafor36

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I put standard Gabriel's on my rear and put in new leafs. Car sits wonderful now. But for the last 28yrs it did have air shocks. Got tired of pumping them up randomly.
 

Bob Glover

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Additionally, E-berg has just penned a new article over the last two issues of MA " Rear Disc-O-Tech" about Disc conversion for the rear axle using junk yard parts from a 2007 down Jeep Liberty. Cheap and way better than 10" drums. I'll be doing that swap on my 'Cuda in the near future.
 
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Bob Glover

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Stay away from air shocks on the back or you run the risk of cracking the upper cross member. The metal is surprisingly thin and not designed to support the weight of the car.
This is very true. When I found my 'Cuda, a previous owner had run air shocks for a very long time and actually broke the shock mount member completely off the drivers side frame rail and cracked it on the passenger side. Luckly, the mounting areas were not cracked or elongated. I did have to weld the support member back to the frame rails. Bob
 

JohnP

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Interesting comment which has confirmed that I will be fitting a support frame. Thanks for the info. Have a great day,
 
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