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Wavy Paint. Now What?

Old B5

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Just had my 70 Challenger bodyworked and painted. I went to go see it today even though it wasn't completely done. "Still needs final buff." The bodywork looks good but the paint looks really wavy. I'm seeing it on parts of the car that I know had no bodywork done. What caused this, and what should i say about it? They were acting weird about it. They have been letting it sit outside in the sun to "let it shrink." I mentioned the wavy look and they said to wait until the final product.

BTW I took it to a very nice shop that charges a premium for their work. What do I do/say?
 

wedg2go

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Depending how "wavy" it is, they are right (in a way - application is everything, but no paint job is perfect). Let them finish the job by cutting and buffing the new paint. If it still looks "Hmmmm," I would say the ball is in your court to make a decision.
 

1972 AAR Cuda

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Are they color sanding ? (Then cut and polish) That will make a night and day difference...
 
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Old B5

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Car has all sanding or cutting done. Only thing left to do is final polish/buff.
 

Old B5

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Well i went and looked at the final product and I was really disappointed. Not only does the paint look wavy but there are block sanding marks all over the place. I refused to take it like that but i don't really know what to do about it. They are claiming they thought I wanted a "restoration" paint job and not a "show car" paint job. Those terms were never even mentioned before. They are being really $hitty with me at this point. I signed a contract at the beginning but it was really vague in terminology.
 

DetMatt1

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Block sanding marks in ANY paint job is unacceptable! Restoration or show car quality???:wtf::bs_flag:
 

1972 AAR Cuda

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I cut and buffed mine after paint, but that is a lot of work and takes patience - which is why they don't want to go there. I would be curious to see some pictures.
 

KATSAAR

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if the bodywork sucks the finished product will suck.
how does the top of the car look. is it acceptable..
if just the sides are wavy it will have to be blocked and sprayed again.
flip a lip on the tops of the fenders and quarters and reshoot it.
been there.
 

hofilbert

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Show quality vs. restoration can mean a lot of dollar difference. If you took it to Maaco expect $5K. If $15K-20 for paint, you'd better not have waves. I hate to ask, but what did you pay for the paint job? Was there body work done? Rust? Panels? How many clear coats? etc.
 
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Cuda Hunter

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yes, please fill us in on the finer details before someone tells you to burn their shop down.
Get your car before they claim you didn't pay and try to repossess your car.
 

volunteer

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Not only bodywork but the quality of the 'prep' contributes to quality of the finished product. Some will disagree, but, IF you can use a 'jiggle can' and get a good result, you can most likely get a good result with (properly set up) compressor, gun, regulator etc. Main problem is that there are so many variables with a regular auto paint job - ambient temperature and lighting are two of the main ones. How the paint is mixed and reduced is another. The 'pot life' is generally up to 8 hours, however, if mixed for a shop (paint booth) temp. of 75 degrees and then not applied until later, and temp. over 80 degrees, there will be trouble - as 'flashing off' happens too quick. Colder than anticipated temps. will encourage runs and/or (the dreaded) orange peel effect.
Never heard of the term (wavy) before so excuse my ignorance. Keep in mind - - any qualified shop that does insurance claims has to get it done right the first time so vehicle can go back to owner as soon as the very next day. Having to polish to gain the best results should not be necessary. If all conditions are met, the paint exiting the gun should resemble almost a 'fog' - at least as good, and hopefully better than a 'jiggle can'. I am always dismayed that so many professional painters (even old-timers) prefer the 'two-stage' (base-clear) procedure over the single-stage. A good 'two-stage' will have 3 bases and 3 clears. A good 'single-stage' will have 3 to 4 coats - period. How can 6 coats of product be easier or quicker or cheaper than only 3?
Professional painters (for the most part) are robbers. The real 'talent' is in the bodywork. I do hope you get some satisfaction, Old B5. I would suggest that anyone planning to get a major job done, ask to have it 'itemized' so as to separate the costs of various repairs and the priming and painting. Shops have to do this for insurance claims but why not general public?
 
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