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wiring harness help

crytough

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Hey guys, I could use some more help on my electric problem, not getting any power from the fuse block instrument lights. changed fuse not the problem. I want to pull wire harness from the bulkhead to clean. How do I go about it ? Can I pull clips back and just pull plugs out or do I have to pull thru the fire wall to the inside ? Also was trying to remove console, removed the two screws inside console box, back end is freed up but the front is hung up . Can't find any other screws. What's my problem? besides working on the car by myself ( Duh )
 

crytough

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picture
 

aussiemark

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You have to remove the top trim plate there are 2 more screws in front of the shifter hole then you have to push the console forward a little so it doesn't snag on the shifter rod linkage spring.
 

crytough

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I can't see the picture of the plug.
No power coming out of the fuse holder. These are the plugs I'm talking about. I'd like to pull them out and clean them. Or at least the one leading to the fuse that has no power. Don't no what else to look for. Hope you can see pic now.

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aussiemark

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Those plugs will come out from the engine side of the plug one is for the wiper motor, one is for the lights and one for the engine. There is a modification you can do to the main power ones in this link. Catalog
 

crytough

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Sorry to bother you again, I'm going to get somebody to help me with the upgrade wiring because I'm clueless, but for my own knowledge on the by-pass are they saying disregard the ammeter and is this what their talking about. the two wires on the back of this won't be connected. By the way I do appreciate your help.

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BcudaChris

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Leave the ammeter connected or you won't have power. To bypass it, run a jumper from the alt (a heavy enough gauge to carry your full alternator output) either to the starter (my preference), the power stud on the relay or the battery. This will effectively bypass your ammeter and it will only fluctuate minimally.

This also keeps all the current, but for your actual load, out of the passenger compartment. No more burnt power wire in your bulkhead connector.
 

BSG

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Wow! That link was a wealth of info. I never clearly understood the whole amp meter thing till reading. I have replaced my entire harness with an "american wire" setup, that I wouldn't recommend to anyone. If your truly gonna upgrade, find a company that you don't have to crimp or soldier ever single terminal. On a final note, I bought a volt gauge off the shelf at auto zone and remarkably with very little work installed in the amp meters place. If you didn't know, and arent one of those date code freaks, you'd never know, did the same with the clock area, my car didn't come with one. I bought at tach auto zone as well, fit right in and looks like it belongs.
 

moparlee

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Wow! That link was a wealth of info. I never clearly understood the whole amp meter thing till reading. I have replaced my entire harness with an "american wire" setup, that I wouldn't recommend to anyone. If your truly gonna upgrade, find a company that you don't have to crimp or soldier ever single terminal. On a final note, I bought a volt gauge off the shelf at auto zone and remarkably with very little work installed in the amp meters place. If you didn't know, and arent one of those date code freaks, you'd never know, did the same with the clock area, my car didn't come with one. I bought at tach auto zone as well, fit right in and looks like it belongs.
Show us a picture of your new gauge setup. Thanks.
 

crytough

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Show us a picture of your new gauge setup. Thanks.
There is nothing to show.its all tore apart. I think I'm screwed til I get some help over here. I thought my brother would help, but he's useless. He already had some wire smoking. He may be an electrician but not so good when it comes to a car. I was reading that MAD wiring by-pass and i'm confused. It already looks like it has fuse link wires coming from the starter relay. I understand you run a wire from alt. to starter relay then thru firewall connector to under dash then I'm lost. If i'm by passing ammeter what do i do with the two wires hooked to the ammeter ?
 

BSG

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From what I read you bolt them together after making sure the connectors are up to par. That link in the previous post up there, with the pics pretty much lays it out. Make sure to tape it up as to avoid what would be an expensive bomb fire. If your not confident in what your doing sometimes you just have to pay to have it done. I hate paying for anything but your time is worth money as well.
 

crytough

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Thanks for getting back. Are you saying the original black & red wires going to the ammeter should be taken off then bolted together and taped ? Then the wire coming from the starter relay thru fire wall does that hook to, and is there only one new wire or two ? Because the two power wires one red & one black going to the firewall connector I can see the black wire slot the plastic is a little melted. Do I connect another lead from the starter relay both on the positive side ? Then inside what do they hook to ? I'm sorry I know it's a lot of questions, but I didn't think I'd be doing this myself. The whole inside of the car is tore apart otherwise I would take it in. Last but not least do I still add fuse links to the new wire or wires. Thanks again I'll try not to bother you again. I'll pester someone else
 

aussiemark

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Unclip the headlight wiring harness and the engine wiring harness plugs from the firewall plug in the engine bay by pressing the tabs in and pull them out of the firewall plug. the thick black wire is in the engine wiring harness plug and the thick red wire is in the headlight harness plug. The thick black wire goes to the alternator B+ terminal, the thick red wire goes to the starter motor relay on the LH inner fender. Go under the dash and unclip the fuse box from the firewall plug there are 2 metal clips diagonally apart push them in and pull the fuse box off the plug. You will now see the other side of the firewall plug. If you don't like working under the dash undo the 2 nuts (engine bay side of firewall) that hold the plug to the firewall then you can pull the plug out a bit so it's easier to work on. Unclip the thick red wire from the firewall plug from inside the car and from the headlight harness in the engine bay. Unclip the thick black wire from the firewall plug from inside the car and from the engine harness in the engine bay. Enlarge the holes in the plugs with a drill bit so you can feed the wire through both plugs where the terminals use to be clipped in this way you get the power through the plug and eliminate the terminals. Cut the terminals off the 2 wires inside the car join a length of wire to the end of both wires (same colour and thickness) pass these through the plug into the engine bay and join them to the wires in the engine bay (I would run them up to the starter relay to cut down the amount of joins in the wires).Bypass the amp gauge by cutting the terminals off and joining the wires together by soldering and use heat shrink to insulate (I use 2 layers of heat shrink to be safe). Remember this is the same wire it starts off at the alternator as a black wire carries the power through the firewall plug to the fuses, light switch, ignition switch and then the amp meter after the power passes through the amp meter the wire changes colour to red but it is still the same power flowing through it, it then passes back through the firewall plug and the power then goes to the starter relay, starter motor and battery+. So think of it as the same wire starting at the alternator doing a big loop and ending up at the battery. All your doing is rerouting the wire to go to the starter relay/battery/starter motor first then onto the parts it used to power up first.
 
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