1970 A-66 Challenger Convertible

[DetMatt1]

When are you going to get the engine out of the way?

 

[340challconvert]

When are you going to get the engine out of the way?

I am thinking of pulling the engine to clean it up and do new seals.
It hasn't been started in about 15 years and I would like to get it running again before I pull it.
Pulling it would make it easier to finish cleaning the lower firewall and frame rails.

 

[340challconvert]

I really happy with the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator on bare metal, prior to epoxy. Engine compartment, and cowl was stripped, cleaned and rust proofed to a nice result.
Also used rust converter with an eye dropper into the hood hinge areas. This seeped in behind the sheet metal and should prevent any future problems with rust.

 

[340challconvert]

The Eastwood primers worked out well for me.
Front end finally epoxied!

 

[340challconvert]

Finally pulled the trigger (no pun intended) on purchasing a Mig/Flux Core Welder
Should do what I need to do on patching the A66 Challenger vert sheetmetal.
Not the most powerful, but runs on 115 volts so I do not need to add a 240 outlet at this time
Purchased from Northern Tool for under $500 and it's made in the USA. (Yes I looked at Harbor Freight, wanted an American made unit.)
Got good reviews and I will see how it welds flux core vs MIG.
I have some practicing to do!

Hobart Handler 140 Flux-Core/MIG Welder — 115V, 140 Amp,

• Amperage output: 25–140; 20% duty cycle @ 90 Amps, 19V
• All new industrial cast aluminum drive system replaces the old drive system to add exceptional strength and durability for even more dependability
• 5-position voltage control selector adds a smooth, stable arc at all welding thicknesses
• The new and improved heavy-duty ground clamp is made from thicker material, offering improved contact points and a wider jaw opening
• Built-in contactor and self-resetting thermal overload protection

• Patented, exclusive 3-groove drive roll makes switching from one groove to another extremely easy, eliminating the frustration for users running small diameter (.023/.024./.025) carbon steel MIG wire for exhaust work and auto body applications
• 3 groove roll handles 0.024 V-Smooth,\r\n0.030/0.035 V-Smooth and 0.030/0.035 V-Knurled wire
• Convenient built-in storage area provides at-the-ready access to spare contact tips
• Includes gun, built-in MIG gas solenoid valve, dual-gauge regulator, gas hose, 10ft. work lead, 8in. wire spool adapter and more
• 
  
  
• 

 

[moparlee]

Very nice welder. You will like it, perfect for that patch work you need to do.

 

[quapman]

I highly recommend getting a bottle of ar/co2 from your local welding supply store. I'm fairly new to welding myself and have had 500% better results with gas over flux core. The initial cost of the bottle might set you back $100, but it's well worth the investment and refills are only around $35. Set your regulator to around 20psi. I use .023" wire.

 

[DetMatt1]

I couldn't agree more, get the gas and start teaching yourself with it. My Miller came with a DVD that was VERY informative for the beginner, pretty much Mig welding 101. I'll see if I can find it and post a link to it for you.

 

[DetMatt1]

This one.

Amazon product ASIN B006K2FD8G

 

[340challconvert]

Thanks ALL for the tips.
I understand that Mig gas shield welding will be cleaner than flux core
Only welding I've done was oxy-acet and that was 40 years ago. I will be a novice with this.
Time to learn some new skills (and save money)
DetMatt, I ordered the DVD you suggested- should be helpful.
quapman- vendors on Amazon and Ebay were selling new gas bottles for under 100.00, I think you are right, the gas welds will be better.
Friends suggest a mix of argon/co2 gas mix rather then using straight CO2. Is that about right?
Thanks for any feedback.

 

[DetMatt1]

That's right, 75/25.

 

[340challconvert]

Cowl Rustproofing
Used Eastwood Internal Frame Coating inside the cowl area to rustproof the area.
Stuff has a spray nozzle that sprays a spread pattern. Looks like it worked well and covers/sprays places that are hard to reach. Wanted to make sure the raised vent in the cowl was covered.
Will need a 2nd coat to really rust proof the area, One ugly green color, but it is Full of Zinc.

 

[DetMatt1]

Have you played with your welder yet?

 

[340challconvert]

Cowl Rustproofing
Used Eastwood Internal Frame Coating inside the cowl area to rustproof the area.
Stuff has a spray nozzle that sprays a spread pattern. Looks like it worked well and covers/sprays places that are hard to reach. Wanted to make sure the raised vent in the cowl was covered.
Will need a 2nd coat to really rust proof the area, One ugly green color, but it is Full of Zinc.
View attachment 29776
View attachment 29780

Have you played with your welder yet?

Believe it or not, it was delivered last night (Friday) at 7:30 pm
Have to pick up the safety equipment (welding helmet, gloves etc.)
Can't wait!

 

[340challconvert]

This one.

Amazon product ASIN B006K2FD8G
View attachment 29577

Video came Saturday, Informative and helpful
Really great, watched on Sunday
DetMatt1-Thanks for the tip.

 

[AUSTA]

Remember when welding stop start let the weld cool a bit then continue rather than doing a long non stop weld & getting blow through & also the heat buckling the metal
The cleaner the weld area the better the weld will be

 

[DetMatt1]

Agreed, heat is you worst enemy when welding sheet metal. What's called a stitch weld is the best way.

 

[js29]

Another thing to remember is when you grind the welds, treat it like you are doing body work. slowly take the high spots down, and don't let the metal get any hotter than what you cat touch it with your bare hand. You can warp it from to much heat grinding as well as you can from welding.

 

[DetMatt1]

Ok so your first assignment is to weld 2 soup cans together side by side.

 

[340challconvert]

Ok so your first assignment is to weld 2 soup cans together side by side.

Years ago I used to weld oxy-acet on exhaust systems with coat hangers (only when the shop ran out or rods)
If I weld enough Campbell's soup cans together, can I make a small block exhaust system?
Might even be able to include a crossover pipe. It just might work!