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Header Removal

KennyCuda

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Need help again with my 70 challenger 340 it has headers I bought it like that and now want to put the original exhaust back on. Since I didn't install them I wanted to know are they removed from under the car or from the top. If from under do have to part of the front end out ? or the starter?
 

Chryco Psycho

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It depends on the specific header most come out the bottom witht the starter & oil filter removed , some can be remove from the top again with the starter removed , some ahve the center link going through the header so you can remove the center link or cut the header tube .
 

KennyCuda

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Ok thanks mine doesn't have the center link going through it
 

KennyCuda

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This it what im dealing with

F4A9ACC0-0CA3-46DF-A6A4-6F1CD0F43422.jpeg
 

Xcudame

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Disconnect both engine mounts. Jack up/hoist up the engine as high as you can go (removing the distributor cap will allow some extra room). Headers should come out. Passenger side usually from the top, drivers side which ever is easiest. If you have a lift, it makes it easier to remove the headers from the bottom. Nice thing about the small blocks is there's more room than the big blocks! Best of luck.
 

KennyCuda

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I have a drive on lift so you think I can get both sides out the bottom if I take the starter out and oil filter
 

Ricks72Chlgr440

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I love the performance boost that headers provide, but they can be a real pain! You probably already know this, but not all headers are created equal. Some provide more clearance than others. I put a set of Dougs D453 on my 408 stroker and they worked very well. Only issue I had with installation was because I upgraded the torsion bars to a 1.03 so had to clearance some of the tubes. If I left the OE bars there would have been plenty of room. Also had to use a different starter, but the newer (smaller) starters are better than the old/larger reduction gear ones.

Just curious; did you find a set of OE performance manifolds for that engine that you're replacing the headers with?
 

Xcudame

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Try to save the headers. The 68-70 exhaust manifolds flow pretty well. So do the 90-92 truck exhaust manifolds.
 

KennyCuda

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Rick I have original exhaust manifolds and I had them ceramic coated. I think what i have on there now the guy told me are old Hooker headers is there a part number on the headers> How would I know if there a 5115 headers. I spoke withy friend who's a mechanic and he's gonna do it for me hopefully I can help and he said he's gonna drop the K frame out of the car along with the control arms ill get them sand blasted and painted nice and put new bushings in them and anything I might need in the front end.
 

Ricks72Chlgr440

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Rick I have original exhaust manifolds and I had them ceramic coated. I think what i have on there now the guy told me are old Hooker headers is there a part number on the headers> How would I know if there a 5115 headers. I spoke withy friend who's a mechanic and he's gonna do it for me hopefully I can help and he said he's gonna drop the K frame out of the car along with the control arms ill get them sand blasted and painted nice and put new bushings in them and anything I might need in the front end.
Sounds like you have a nice plan! Perhaps others might chime in on how to tell if those headers are the 5115's.
 

Xcudame

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Not having the steering link pass through them makes them desirable. Hopefully you can get them out OK without too much hassle. They will help offset the expense of cast iron exhaust manifolds.
 

Xcudame

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They're about $1000 new, but out of stock. Should be able to get $500 for a used pair in good shape.
 
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