VillaTA
Well-Known Member
My cars idle screw is all the way out and not touching the linkage but the idle won’t lower unless I push on the throttle assembly. I have no clue what to do to correct this. Any help is appreciated.
Idle issue
- Thread starter VillaTA
- Start date
Maybe the gaskets are hanging on the plates. Did it just start doing this? You could disconnect the outboard linkage, see if you can set the center carb. I have seen the linkage to the outboards set a little tight causing this. The linkage should just fall in the holes.
704406
Well-Known Member
Do as fasjac says, disconnect the outboard carbs to check if that is the issue, and are you sure you have no vacuum leaks?
looks like the kick down spring is almost heavier than your throttle spring, try taking it off to see if that helps
Double check that the choke fast idle cam is completely disengaged as well
looks like the kick down spring is almost heavier than your throttle spring, try taking it off to see if that helps
Double check that the choke fast idle cam is completely disengaged as well
Is this a new build? As everything looks great, would like to know if it has always had this issue or just started acting this way. The more info the better.
VillaTA
Well-Known Member
It was built in 2018-2019. I have only had the car a few months. It did feel that the idle was a little high at first. But definitely it is worse now. If info out for a cruise, when I put in park or neutral, It sometimes idles higher than 1500 rpm and just stays there. Its like there is no more movement to go down on the throttle lever unless I press on it. I again state that I’m no mechanic. But the simple stuff like adjusting the idle screw didn’t work.
Make sure your throttle cable isn't binding somewhere. Also make sure it's not adjusted too far back and holding the throttle shaft from riding on the idle stop screw.
You need to readjust the outboard rods as well if they are too long/short.
You need to readjust the outboard rods as well if they are too long/short.
VillaTA
Well-Known Member
I’m almost ready to change the manifold to a standard 4bbl. Seems like it’d be less headache. Of course I’m kidding. Sorta.
If you get them tuned right, they are good to go. Use good fuel.
Something about a six pack/barrel that does it for me. All these cars need to driven and used as built. I know most aren’t daily drivers but, get it out when you can and store them correctly during the bad months. JMO
VillaTA
Well-Known Member
I won’t change them. I’m just frustrated.
Trust me, I get it. Hang in there Villa TA. Lots of guys here on the site that can help you.
Chryco Psycho
Well-Known Member
it can hang up on the choke as well
70chall440
Well-Known Member
In my experience, most of the time its the gaskets but I have seen the linkage to the outboard carbs case similar things.
When I first going into 6 packs (back in the last 70's) I have an older guy who was big into Mopar tell me to remove the outboard carbs, block them off, plug the fuel lines (or remove the 6 pack line or by pass it) and then work on the center and get it right. Once that was done then reinstall the outboard carbs, set up the linkage and vacuum lines and go from there.
That said, on a 6 pack engine the outboard carbs do supply a small amount of fuel during idle, they are not completely dry.
When I first going into 6 packs (back in the last 70's) I have an older guy who was big into Mopar tell me to remove the outboard carbs, block them off, plug the fuel lines (or remove the 6 pack line or by pass it) and then work on the center and get it right. Once that was done then reinstall the outboard carbs, set up the linkage and vacuum lines and go from there.
That said, on a 6 pack engine the outboard carbs do supply a small amount of fuel during idle, they are not completely dry.
moparleo
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Are you talking about the a/f mixture screw in the metering block ? It looks to be sticking out a lot. 1 1/2 turns out is about normal.
If you are talking about the throttle linkage screw and it is backed all the way out, look down the throat to see if it is actually closed completely. If so it should just about die at idle. If it is closed and still runs fast, intake leak in that carb.
Taking another closer look, are you running mechanical linkages to the outer carbs ? That could be a problem if it is not allowing the center carb to close. Post a larger picture of the complete carb and linkage set-up.
Looking at all the recent posts on this car, it looks like a cluster of problems. What is the recent history on this car? A recent complete rebuild ? A lot of different issues at the same time...
If you are talking about the throttle linkage screw and it is backed all the way out, look down the throat to see if it is actually closed completely. If so it should just about die at idle. If it is closed and still runs fast, intake leak in that carb.
Taking another closer look, are you running mechanical linkages to the outer carbs ? That could be a problem if it is not allowing the center carb to close. Post a larger picture of the complete carb and linkage set-up.
Looking at all the recent posts on this car, it looks like a cluster of problems. What is the recent history on this car? A recent complete rebuild ? A lot of different issues at the same time...
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VillaTA
Well-Known Member
It was redone/rebuilt in 2019. Most of my issues are minor, but, because I’m fickle and want everything “perfect” since I just got it. I have a tendency to dig into everything at once. I think it was assembled and sold and not much shake down time was put into it. Plus it’s my first E body so I know very little compared to the Forward Look Mopar that I’ve played with for the past 10 years. Im trying to learn a lot.
moparleo
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OK Making more sense now. It is new to you and you are learning about the new car as well as going through all the systems.
If you haven't already done it get as much reading material on the E-bodies (T/A) specifically and know that many things were changing in the automotive industry in the early seventies both emissions and Federal safety standards.
Electronic ignition was in transition in 72 and standard on 73 and up. Disc brakes standard in 73.
Collision standards were changing yearly after 1970 so many internal body/sheet metal items were changing like internal door impact beams, hood crumple zones, reinforced bumpers to name a few.
It is nearly impossible to focus on many items at once and be able properly absorb the information.
Make a punch list and work your way through it. When you ask general questions on these forums, people will assume too much about your(any poster) expertise/familiarity with the cars different systems and throw all kinds of information at you.
It tends to make things more confusing.
In my shops Mechanics/technicians (or whatever the current term is) just like Dr's had their areas of proficiency.
Brake and front end guys , driveline, engine diagnostics/tune-up, electrical and so on. Nobody did everything with the same quality of results.
Brake guys would not like electrical, tune-up guys did not like suspension and so on.
When you go to the Dr. you get referrals to the specialists, automotive is not so much different.
My mantra to my employees was to " Do what you do, don't do what you don't do" in other words know you limits and don't try to do things you don't know how to do. Educate yourself and earn your experience. The only way you can buy experience is to pay someone else who already has it and have them do the work.
If you haven't already done it get as much reading material on the E-bodies (T/A) specifically and know that many things were changing in the automotive industry in the early seventies both emissions and Federal safety standards.
Electronic ignition was in transition in 72 and standard on 73 and up. Disc brakes standard in 73.
Collision standards were changing yearly after 1970 so many internal body/sheet metal items were changing like internal door impact beams, hood crumple zones, reinforced bumpers to name a few.
It is nearly impossible to focus on many items at once and be able properly absorb the information.
Make a punch list and work your way through it. When you ask general questions on these forums, people will assume too much about your(any poster) expertise/familiarity with the cars different systems and throw all kinds of information at you.
It tends to make things more confusing.
In my shops Mechanics/technicians (or whatever the current term is) just like Dr's had their areas of proficiency.
Brake and front end guys , driveline, engine diagnostics/tune-up, electrical and so on. Nobody did everything with the same quality of results.
Brake guys would not like electrical, tune-up guys did not like suspension and so on.
When you go to the Dr. you get referrals to the specialists, automotive is not so much different.
My mantra to my employees was to " Do what you do, don't do what you don't do" in other words know you limits and don't try to do things you don't know how to do. Educate yourself and earn your experience. The only way you can buy experience is to pay someone else who already has it and have them do the work.
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Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
As 70chall440 said I would do. To me it sounds like it's running lean. Ever hear a motor running out of gas.it speeds up. Just a thought.
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