Outer Tie Rod Ends the Same

[Fox Slaughter]

So I changed out my ball joints upper and lower. Had to change my tie rod ends as they didn't like being heated up and beaten out of the lower ball joints.

I got a Left and a right today and when I went to install them it was a left one on both sides.

Could someone of put a left sleeve and inner tie rod end on the passenger side?

Now my debate is should I just order a new sleeve and inner tie rod end or just say screw it and run 2 left outer tie rod ends?

 

[Chryco Psycho]

the tie rods can be installed either way with the lefts inward or outer so on yours both tie rods have the left to the outside & right inside .
For similar cost you can order the C body tierod ends & sleeves as they are much larger but still fit the tapered holes

 

[Fox Slaughter]

the tie rods can be installed either way with the lefts inward or outer so on yours both tie rods have the left to the outside & right inside .
For similar cost you can order the C body tierod ends & sleeves as they are much larger but still fit the tapered holes

So what you are saying is I could flip the tie rod around?

 

[Chryco Psycho]

Yes , but if the other end has the damaged tierod end you may have to still replace the outer one

 

[Fox Slaughter]

I just ended up returning the "right" one for another "left" one.
So its all back together so its up at the shop getting the front end aligned and new mufflers put on.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

Makes sense to me

 

[Fox Slaughter]

So now I have a new problem.

They said it needs lower control arm bushings and caster bushings? Something about the torsion bars that go into the core support? This is my first car like this so I am kinda lost. Obviously I know the lower control arm bushings but don't know about caster bushings?

Anyone got a diagram of the front end or something?

 

[Chryco Psycho]

the caster bushings are the struts going forward into the front of the K frame , you will have to remove those & undo the lower control arm nuts as well as loosening the t bar adjusters & removing the snap ring behind the T bar so you can pry both the lower control arm & t bar back together , you can pop the ball joint apart or undo the bolts through the spindle & remove the LCA

 

[Fox Slaughter]

Sweet thanks. I ended up finding a diagram in one of my service manuals.

Also ended up doing a ghetto front end alignment my self adjusting the toe and camber by eye. So its a lot better now. But perfect but will get by until I replace the bushings and such.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

I rarely use an alignment shop , if you crank the front upper control arm all the way out & the rear one all the way in & use a level to set the camber then set toe in with a friend using a tape measure you will have a better alignment than most shops will set for you

 

[Fox Slaughter]

I rarely use an alignment shop , if you crank the front upper control arm all the way out & the rear one all the way in & use a level to set the camber then set toe in with a friend using a tape measure you will have a better alignment than most shops will set for you

We set the toe first and it happened to not pull at all then I cranked both eccentric bolts so they were all the way in which by eye looks pretty close to 0* camber and it started pulling to the left. So I am assuming you are suppose to see the camber before the toe correct?

I would imagine that moving the upper control would mess with your toe.

 

[moparleo]

The toe is always set last. Although Chryco Psycho has a lot of experience doing this work, as someone new to this type of work, I would suggest going to a reputable alignment shop. If you cannot replace the bushings right away but still want to drive it, adjusting the toe will have the most effect on tire wear. If you want to do this at home, get a buddy to help.
First center the steering wheel. While the someone holds the steering wheel centered, adjust both sides, one side at a time until they point straight ahead. Set the toe approx. 1/8 " in. But do get the bushings fixed asap.

 

[Fox Slaughter]

The toe is always set last. Although Chryco Psycho has a lot of experience doing this work, as someone new to this type of work, I would suggest going to a reputable alignment shop. If you cannot replace the bushings right away but still want to drive it, adjusting the toe will have the most effect on tire wear. If you want to do this at home, get a buddy to help.
First center the steering wheel. While the someone holds the steering wheel centered, adjust both sides, one side at a time until they point straight ahead. Set the toe approx. 1/8 " in. But do get the bushings fixed asap.

Yeah thats what we did yesterday.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

Yup caster & camber both affect toe so set it last .
The alignment shops will set it to 70 specs for bias tires [ not good !] if you go to an alignment shop you want max + caster 1st , 1/2* - camber , 1/16" toe in
You can follow what I said & end up very close as long as you use the level on the rim not the tire as the bottom of the tire will bulge out

 

[Fox Slaughter]

Well this week I'm going up to Roseville Moparts and need to pick up a passenger marker lens, so I will get the upper control arm bushings, lower control arm bushings, strut bushings, torsion bar, bushings.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

you may want to use the Moog offset upper control arm bushings to help increase caster adjustment Rubber may still be the best lower bushing , no T bar bushings , you can also use Poly bushings for the upper CA & the Caster strut , I use Energy suspension parts , the other option is Rock Auto , they will carry the Moog parts

 

[mmissile]

Good info. With all the adjustable parts in my front-end[Hotchkiss and QA1] and dropped spindles, anybody know a really good alignment shop around metro Detroit? I can eyeball stuff, but want the front-end to be correctly aligned.

Thanks, Mike.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

I generally do my own , no one working on cars these days has a clue about the old ones , you cannot set to factory specs as they were set for bias tires not radials . The specs you need are 3* caster or better , 1/2* inward at he top & 1/16" toe in .
I set the caster at max so front adjuster all the way outward & rear all the way inward to tip the ball joint as far back as possible , then using a level I set the camber at 1/2* inward at the top best done with a digital level across the rim not the tire , then with 2 people use a tape measure across the front tires using the same place on the tread front & rear , you want 1/16 " of toe in .

 

[mmissile]

Thanks again. I'm kinda wishing I had stuck with a simple aftermarket control arm. I'm not gonna be road-racing my vert....but wanted good parts.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

you should be able to figure out caster with a digital level also , something like this will work http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Ang...otractor-Magnetic-Base-NEW/310495396509?rt=nc