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torsion bar removal

hammer

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1971 Dodge Challenger with a torsion bar that is giving me fits. The driver's side came out with a few taps of a hammer, but the passenger side won't budge. The chassis book says don't heat the torsion bar but can I heat the end to see if that will break it loose? And does anyone know where I can get the factory torsion bar removal tool? Thanks.
 

Chryco Psycho

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I remove the LCA pivot bolt & the caster strut from the LCA & pry the T bar & LCA back together , generally no problem to remove the T bars this way
 

hammer

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Good thoughts, but tried all of those things, even hit the lower control arm from the front of the car with a 2 x4 and a sledge. What harm will it do to heat up the mount in the rear, not red hot, but put some heat there to try and loosen this joint.
 

moparleo

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Do not use heat ! Make sure that the little torsion bar retainer clip is removed, I did not see a mention of it. Also do not use any tool that will scratch or make any mark on the bars , such as Vice grips, pipe wrench,Channel locks, etc... you get the picture. I saw a guy say on FBBO to use vice grips. Not !! The torsion bar tools are still available if you have the time to order one, or if you are handy, it is very simple to make. I leared a long time ago that if you have to force it, That goes for gals too, you are doing something wrong.
 

Chryco Psycho

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if you are going to replace the Tbars anyway go nuts but if you want to save them you cannot hurt the surface or they will break . Even the most stubborn bars I have been able to remove by prying between the K frame & LCA ,not sure why you are having so much trouble assuming the rear clip is removed
 

hammer

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Retaining clip is out and it has been soaking in PB Blaster. I will try to locate a torsion bar tool here in Northern Illinois-Southern Wisconsin, Gurnee-Kenosha area or if someone in the area could let me use one, that would be great. The other one came out very easy, but there was grease visible by the boot, there was no grease in the other. I guess 40 years will do that.
 

hammer

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It's Free!

After a couple more failed ideas, we decided to remove the k frame to get a direct hit on the torsion bar. 3 hits of the hammer and it was free. No grease but a lot of rust on the end. Both of these bars will see plenty of grease when it is reassembled. Thank god for long bars to get the k frame bolts out! Thanks for all the ideas!
 

70challengerdane

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im currently going through this same thing.. im doing the drivers side, the clips out, adjuster screw out, strut rod loosened, lca pivot nut off, i can move both bar and lca back about a half inch easily, but it will not go any further. i have new bars and so ive been using a monkey wrench as a removal tool but it is absolutely not working. also sprayed the back down with pb.. did i just miss something? ive never done this before :(
 

Chryco Psycho

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remove the nut from the caster strut & use a big pry bar to push the LCA arm back from the K frame
 

johnscudashop

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I make the torsion bar removal tool , they are made from 1"X 1" solid steel with a knurled handle $39.99 plus ship They are available at www.custommachinecomponents.com or 843-324-3586 M-F 8-5 EST Thanks

100_1719.jpg
 

70challengerdane

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hey guys, got them out.. both bars were horribly stuck in the lca and took hours of wrestling.. then also an hour of wrestling to get the fronts out of the crossmember. but the new ones took about 5 minutes to install and bolt up :) thanks for the help guys!
 
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