wrong measurements on my challenger

[ogre]

My 1970 Challenger was hit in the rear, bent pretty bad but centered on the lock. I bought a new trunk floor, extensions, shelf panel between the trunk and back window, the left and right trunk drip edges, All AMD , except the tail light frame which was NOS, couldn't find the lower crossbrace from AMD so ordered one from Classic which came in late.
I figured I will need at least 1 quarter panel and probably both, but I measured the distance on the new cross brace between the 2 inner holes and it came to like 42 inches and the over all length without the bend tabs was 60".
When I measured the car again best effort as the mid section has been cut out, was 38 for short measurement and 56" overall length of that crossover bar.

Can anybody give me a definitive answer as to proper length and distance between the holes in he crossover. Either the car will need extra shop time, or my new piece is FUBAR and needs to be returned.

Thanks for any info!!

Ogre

 

[Adam]

Can you post some pics?

 

[ogre]

not much to see, the third pic shows 1 side, centered over the spring, the other side looks the same and I was measuring from 1 inside hole to the other and then edge to edge on the panel. Also the length of the trunk lid at the top is longer than the length at the bottom (talking horizontal) so if the decklid is a rectangle the corners are sucked in on the car.

 

[Adam]

My trunk lid is rectangular, about 56 & 1/4 across the top and bottom. Couldn’t measure the cross piece because my number is in the way..

 

[rklein71]

 

[ogre]

My trunk lid is rectangular, about 56 & 1/4 across the top and bottom. Couldn’t measure the cross piece because my number is in the way..

Well I am in for a rough ride, the trunk opening is 56 1/2 at the top (I am measuring the opening not the lid so it should be a little bigger) but when i get to the bottom its 52 and something, so I lose like 4 inches. When I measure the distance outside to outside on the frame rail its at 46" not 48 as in the diagram very thoughtfully posted( thank you).
So its caved in for sure, but the rails actually look ok to me so its very deceptive.
This will need some frame rack time, and I will need to buy both quarter panels. I hope the frame guy shows up Saturday.
I dont want to have to buy new frame rails, I had anticipated replacing everything between the quarters but not the quarters themselves since they are rust wise in great shape just twisted.

 

[ogre]

View attachment 94360

yes it did and thank you. it seems the D value is equal on both sides but the 48" across the rails at the rear is way off by 2" I get 46 or so. My trunk opening narrows from 56 1/2 at the to down to 52 at the lip. Car is going to need a lot of love!

 

[Adam]

yes it did and thank you. it seems the D value is equal on both sides but the 48" across the rails at the rear is way off by 2" I get 46 or so. My trunk opening narrows from 56 1/2 at the to down to 52 at the lip. Car is going to need a lot of love!

Once you cut away the caved in areas I think it will relax outward a bit, then only a little tweaking should get it the rest of the way.

 

[Bug Guy]

Hey I would like to see more pictures of you car but from a distance to see the total damages, I’m a retired auto body tech , Thanks Ray

 

[ogre]

Hey I would like to see more pictures of you car but from a distance to see the total damages, I’m a retired auto body tech , Thanks Ray

 

[ogre]

The first pic is another project, a 66 charger, 440 nothing matching so I am going with a new color voodoo violet. the others are the Challenger, i removed the real twisted stuff so I could get in there. The is a little damage that went across the seam from the trunk floor to the back seat panel on the passenger side but its cosmetic.

 

[Bug Guy]

The first pic is another project, a 66 charger, 440 nothing matching so I am going with a new color voodoo violet. the others are the Challenger, i removed the real twisted stuff so I could get in there. The is a little damage that went across the seam from the trunk floor to the back seat panel on the passenger side but its cosmetic.

I would get a new trunk floor pan one peace, new tail light panel, Your trunk lid ok or pushed up at the trunk latch? If so you’ll need a trunk lid the hinges are ok ? A good body person can save both 1/4 panels , new trunk Chanel’s there cheep ,I would cut it off the floor pans get to the frame rails straight them and start replacing the panels ,As for the 1/4 panels replace the left and repair the right , I don’t know your skill level? But it’s your call good luck should be a nice car when you’re done!

 

[ogre]

I have from AMD, 1 piece trunk floor, both extensions, an NOS tail panel, new crossmember and corners, new left and right drip edges for trunk, new shelf to the rear window all AMD. One shop quoted me a month and 10-13K to fix it with new quarters. Found that kind of a lot of hours. Next up is the frame guy, 1 step at a time. no trunk lid came with the car.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Do the doors operate as they did before?

 

[ogre]

Do the doors operate as they did before?

driver does, but passenger has no door handle. kinda stiff on the inside but i would say yes they are fine. Gaps look ok, probably could use a hinge kit (new pins)

 

[Challenger RTA]

Just so you know the 1/4 panels are used to line up the doors.remove the doors you loose the alignment for the 1/4 panels.Unless you set up or pull measurements in front of the doors.Don't remove anything else until an experienced person looks at it. There are no factory tram measurements that I know of.Someone may have something? 3 1/2" top to bottom of instrument.
Do you have a Tram?

 

[Joseph Adamek]

My 1970 Challenger was hit in the rear, bent pretty bad but centered on the lock. I bought a new trunk floor, extensions, shelf panel between the trunk and back window, the left and right trunk drip edges, All AMD , except the tail light frame which was NOS, couldn't find the lower crossbrace from AMD so ordered one from Classic which came in late.
I figured I will need at least 1 quarter panel and probably both, but I measured the distance on the new cross brace between the 2 inner holes and it came to like 42 inches and the over all length without the bend tabs was 60".
When I measured the car again best effort as the mid section has been cut out, was 38 for short measurement and 56" overall length of that crossover bar.

Can anybody give me a definitive answer as to proper length and distance between the holes in he crossover. Either the car will need extra shop time, or my new piece is FUBAR and needs to be returned.

Thanks for any info!!

Ogre

Is it the panels are wrong or the measurments? The Cuda and Challenger are different in size. I believe a Challenger is 2" or so longer than a Cuda.

 

[Adam]

I have from AMD, 1 piece trunk floor, both extensions, an NOS tail panel, new crossmember and corners, new left and right drip edges for trunk, new shelf to the rear window all AMD. One shop quoted me a month and 10-13K to fix it with new quarters. Found that kind of a lot of hours. Next up is the frame guy, 1 step at a time. no trunk lid came with the car.

It doesn’t look so bad… fyi aftermarket Quarters may not have a nice crisp 90 degree fold into the door jamb, more rounded; for this reason I cut the quarter along the outside of the jamb and preserved the fold. Also the Challenger gashole indentation may be beveled instead of a sharp stamp, however the trim ring will cover.

 

[ogre]

Just so you know the 1/4 panels are used to line up the doors.remove the doors you loose the alignment for the 1/4 panels.Unless you set up or pull measurements in front of the doors.Don't remove anything else until an experienced person looks at it. There are no factory tram measurements that I know of.Someone may have something? 3 1/2" top to bottom of instrument.
Do you have a Tram?
View attachment 94415

View attachment 94417

View attachment 94421

View attachment 94425

View attachment 94427

View attachment 94430

no tram, just a tape measure and a straight edge.

 

[ogre]

So I waited a month for the collision shop owner to come over and check the car's unibody. Of course he was a no show.
I guess unless I hand out bushels of cash nobody wants to even look at it, I have received a lot more help from this forum for which I am very grateful. Anyway, I bought a frame fixing kit , nothing fancy just a pump a ram and some fitting. So far my frame rails have been moved out 2" at the ends and now match the guides that were posted. The holes on the crossmember are not even close yet which makes me wonder if classic industries didnt send the wrong piece. Next I will try and rotate the quarter panels out to full width so the trunk opening remains at a constant width.

I am still looking for a full AMD or NOS or Used but rust/dent free driver quarter panel. Mine wont survive. Closest I have is an older AMD one but for 850 which is a lot given that if in stock they are 399.

I will be measuring all the points that I can, so if anybody has any more certified measurements send them my way please.

ogre.