Manual Disc vs Power disc brakes?

[msbaugh]

Im changing my front manual drums on my 70 chally to discs...
Not sure what to do about power vs keeping it manual
What are yalls experiences with this?
I dont mind having to step a little harder to stop the car. (im young), also I would like to keep it as simple/cheap as possible

Thanks a lot, Matt

 

[BIGSHCLUNK]

I did this comversion on my 70, SSBC w 4 piston cals.( Not the cheapest but not the biggest buck either). I kept adjusting the rear pressure till it felt right. No its not power (got a HEMI may not have the right vaccum anyway) but its NOT that hard a pedal. She stops on a dime!

 

[msbaugh]

are there any other good kits out there? Im wanting to buy a full kit (calipers, rotors, spindles, hoses, w/e) so i can avoid searching around for all the different parts separately...
It would be real nice to have them slotted and drilled, I just dont want to pay too much... somewhere from 600-900 dollars ballpark.

How does this one look? I like having the options so I dont have to have them all plated and all that
http://www.braketechsolutions.com/inc/sdetail/253

Might I add that this is my first real mopar, so Im unexperienced but can handle a pretty easy job like this

 

[LXguy]

You don't want slotted and drilled rotors on a street car.

I got the kit for my Dart from these people: Very pleased with it.

http://www.getdiscbrakes.com/rightstuff/Default.aspx

 

[msbaugh]

Really? why is that? I figured all It would do is help me stop better...
Im not really sure what I should get. I just want to be able to stop in, say, a panic situation or in weekend driving. Especially with that heavy 440 under my hood

 

[LXguy]

Slots are just for resisting fade in very heavy repeated braking situations. IT actually reduces surface area contact between the rotor and pad.

Drilling just weakens the rotor. Both reduce rotor life.

On anything but a race car, its just for looks.

Again, I'd call Right Stuff and see what they've got. I bought an SSBC kit from them and thought it was very complete, easy to install and reasonably priced.

Doing the brake lines at the same time isn't a terrible idea if the ones on your car are questionable at all.

Steve

 

[msbaugh]

Good point. Ill have to check them out for sure. Yeah the brake lines will definitely be re-done. (as much as I'm not looking forward to that one lol)

 

[btceng]

Does anyone have experience with Scarebirds conversion? A friend recommends them to me. I am interested in converting my 72 Challenger to manual discs. He used them for a Mustang and was really impressed. He says it's nothing fancy but a kit for using off the shelf parts. They use Galaxie rotors and Dodge truck calipers.

http://scarebird.com/index.php?id=31

 

[shadango]

My 72 fish had drum brakes.....after one too many scares, I converted to moapr disks.....using the sliding type calipers from a 79 Newyorker, so the larger rotors. Cant remember what the spindles I am using are from....have to look that up in my records if you are interested.

I stayed manual brakes, but changed to a modern aluminum master cylinder and swaped out the rear brake cylinders for those from a pickup....and added a summit proportioning valve.

Like night and day from drums.

 

[GranCuda70]

Call Wayne,

The Mopar Answer Man
(817)429-0105
(817)691-5996
THERAMMAN.COM he will keep you mopar and answer questions.

 

[HANG TEN]

I bought a set from jegs and was very unhappy with it. Master and booster were chevy part numbers and it wouldn't work well with mopars lower vaccum inches. Swapped them out with real mopar parts and it worked great.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

makes sense to me !!